Jeep Cherokee

Jeep does not use a mass airflow sensor on the 4.0L

It's on the side of the Radiator, behind the grill on the passenger side.

I had the same problem happen to my 1995 Nissan Maxima. when i twas put on the machine at the dealership, allegedly, it could be a bad airbag control sending unit. cheapest i found the part (once) was 115 dollars. from the dealer it's 800-1150. .

I just had this same problem and it was the Alternator.

Your heater core has a leak in it requiring replacement of the heater core. It will continuously leak as it is part of the cooling system for the engine, and is under pressure. Above is true if it is antifreeze and not water. Don't rule out a plugged drain hole in the wiper transmission area or water leak from the body.

It is right up under the steering wheel and instrument. If you open the driver's side door and stick you head under you should see the fuses lined up in rows and columns.

In a word - No.

The Jeep Cherokee has been produced from two different chassis. The first chassis was used from 1984-1994 model years. The second from 1995-2001 model years. Each of these two chassis require a different hitch because the mounting points on the chassis are different.

You can find quality Valley hitches for either the 2000 Jeep Cherokee or the 1993 Jeep Cherokee at PerformanceParts4Less.com. See the link below.

It is actually cost effective to buy a remanufactured engine from a reliable company like Jaspers engines. They have a good reputation and nationwide warranty. That will depend on who does the rebuild, and what area you are in. A typical rebuild here runs anywhere from 1200 to 1800 depending on what shop does it. Paid $800.00 to have my engine rebuilt.

There is no - repeat - no PCV on the 4.0 motor and many others in this year range. The crankcase ventilation system is actually the smaller plastic hose plugged at the rear of the valve cover leading to the intake manifold. It has a sized hole to control the amount of air it draws through the intake. Installing a PCV into the larger hose at front will pressurize the crankcase and blow the weakest gasket, causing oil leaks and a series of gasket and seal changes that never solve the problem. Do not install a PCV unless you know for a fact the factory put it there.

Several hundred dollars but depending on the mileage on your vehicle, it may not be worth the money because it may not solve the oil leak problem. My mechanic convinced me not to make the repair - on a high mileage vehicle the groove where the seal sits is likely also worn, so oil just flows past the new seal.

That's bad advice from your mechanic. As with the groove, since the seal is the only thing that sits in that groove and its only function is to keep oil from leaking past, there is NOTHING to cause the groove to wear out unless you are taking a chisel to it . Replacing the seal is not overly difficult just messy and most shops will try and tell you that you have to drop the tranny to get to it, the oil pan is the only thing that needs to be removed, you might find a shop that knows this but they make more money on the labor if the drop the tranny so look about $500 and up to do it just for a $10 seal and $20 oil pan gasket

I just replaced a gasket on my '94 Cherokee and it started to leak. I used that RTC silicone gasket maker. I think my problem was I didn't let it cure long enough before driving it. I let it cure a full 24 hours like it said to, but I think it was too cold out to let it fully dry. Anyway, I pulled the cover off again, scraped all that crap off and just bought a premade gasket from the autoparts store for about 6 dollars and now it's not leaking at all. Now I just need to clean all that leaked oil off of EVERY engine component! Hope that helps.

I would suggest you invest in a repair manual. It cost around $12 at most auto parts stores, and will contain the info you need to complete this repair and many others. It will pay for itself with this one repair

provided they are from the same year then i believe so. they may already be the same transfercase! just like many car brands almost all of the jeep line is built on the same drivetrain with different frames/bodies, especially in the late 80's through the mid 90's.

It could possibly be the neutral safety switch. This switch is part of the gear selector assembly in the passenger compartment that you use to put the vehicle in drive, reverse, etc. and tells the car when it is in neutral or park and is therefore safe to start. The part is about $50 if I remember correctly. Another option may be the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) another fairly inexpensive part. Similarly this sensor determines if the engines insides are lined up properly and will not allow the vehicle to start if it is malfunctioning. These parts are both very common causes of a Cherokee not starting and it seems almost every Cherokee owner will replace these two parts and a throttle position sensor (TPS) at some point during their ownership luckily they are not that expensive and can be done by most do-it-yourselfers.

In addition to this I found on my vehicle;

Symptoms: -gradually weaker cranking from starter motor over last 3 days, then full stop.

Will not crank, battery indicating charge present and lights strong.

Fix: In this instance, a light tap on the starter motor solenoid while turning ignition to START freed it nicely. The solenoid must have jammed. It is a sign of a worn startermotor so should be replaced in the near future. This will get you going though.

Starter motor with solenoid can be found by looking down in your engine bay on the left side of the engine. (4.0 L petrol 6cyl) Very deep down.

If you go to your local Pep Boys, ( I know, the expensive guys...) and ask them to get on their company web page, they have a link to a web page that I got all of my wiring, vaccum, and other lines diagrammed out for me...It really helped. If not, email me at cjhamilton@cpen.med.navy.mil and I can talk to my guy over there and get one and possibly mail or fax it to you.

The windshield wiper fuse on a 1993 Jeep Cherokee is located in the fuse box that is located in the engine compartment. Disconnect battery before servicing the fuses in this fuse box on top of the battery.

You really have two of them. The first one is leading from the headers into the exhaust pipe. Get below you Jeep and start looking in the general area under the driver's door. You should see a sensor sticking into the pipe with a wire at the end. I just got under the 92 I own and see the 4 wires going to an insert, screwed into the exhaust pipe just after the two parts of the exhaust maniofold join.

ATF+4 or use a synthetic 5w-30 motor oil. The motor oil will have to be changed every 6000 miles though. The ATF+4 can be left in for at least 50,000 miles.

you can bleed the brakes all you want but with that wheel cylinder leak its all going to leak right out and equal...thats right you guessed it a soft pedal in other words you are getting almost no brakes in the rear! DANGERRRROUS!

either behind or in front of the arm of your brake pedal. Follow the brake pedal up until you find a box, either in front of or behind the brake pedal. You will find that the box has a button on it that is activated by your brake pedal, that is the neutral safety switch.

No it will not the steering column in a 94 Cherokee only fits the 94 Cherokee. If i remember correctly 88-89 will workin an 89. I own a 94 Cherokee that i have to replace the steerin column in.

nate

4.0L is 6 quarts of 10W30 4.7L is 6 quarts of 5W30

Unbolt, slide off. Slide on new part, bolt back on.

This can be found in your owner's manual. Don't have one, get one. Dealer or salvage yard is a source.

if the check engine light is on take it to a parts store and have the hook up the code reader. if not it could be spark plugs,plug wiers,or your coil. it might even go as far as bad gas. that seems to be pretty commen now a days.

It doesn't have one. The fuel system is computer controlled using relays.