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Jeep Comanche
Produced between 1986 and 1992, the Jeep Comanche was a pickup truck version of the Cherokee compact SUV. Available as a rear-wheel and four-wheel drive model, the vehicle’s body, suspension and styling was based on the Jeep Cherokee.
271 Questions
What is the oil capacity of the rear differential on a 1986 Comanche?
The oil capacity of the rear differential on a 1986 Jeep Comanche is approximately 2.5 pints (or about 1.2 liters) for the standard rear axle. It's important to check the owner's manual or service guide for the specific model and axle type, as capacities can vary slightly depending on the configuration. Always ensure to use the recommended differential fluid type for optimal performance.
Where is the solenoid on a 1988 Jeep Comanche?
On a 1988 Jeep Comanche, the solenoid is typically located on the passenger side of the engine bay, mounted on the inner fender well. It is part of the starter system and can usually be identified by its cylindrical shape and electrical connections. If you're having trouble locating it, following the battery cables can lead you to the solenoid, as it is connected to the starter motor.
How do you check the transmission fluid on a 1990 Jeep Comanche?
To check the transmission fluid on a 1990 Jeep Comanche, first ensure the vehicle is parked on a level surface and the engine is running at normal operating temperature. Locate the transmission dipstick, which is typically found near the back of the engine compartment, and remove it. Wipe the dipstick clean, reinsert it, and then remove it again to check the fluid level; it should be between the "Full" and "Add" marks. If necessary, add the appropriate type of transmission fluid through the dipstick tube to reach the correct level.
What were the Comanches best known for?
In the mid 1800's The Comanches were called "The Lords of the Southern Plain." The Comanche's called themselves "Numunus" or, "the people." We were a ferocious tribe known for warring with Mexicans and other tribes. Comanche's masterful horse skills were said to be nearly magical. Although we were one of the last tribes to sign treaties with the United States, Comanche leaders like Quannah Parker urged tribal members to become educated and take advantage of the various benefits that this new culture had imposed. Today, the Comanche Nation headquarters is in Lawton OK. Very successful casinos have provided much needed revenue for the nearly 15,000, mostly local tribal members.
first try changing your fuel filter, if that does't help check your distributor
Why does your 1986 Jeep Comanche keep pushing oil out of the engine?
Oil blow by is common as the Jeep ages. One thing to help that is to remove the valve cover and thourghly clean it out along with the rubber gomets and hose or ptubing that attaches to it. You might need to replace the grommets the checkl your air box and make sure it is clean as well
The Catalytic Converter is bad (clogged). Loss of power the hotter it runs? Its creating back pressure do to the clogging.
What is the stock speaker size in 1989 Jeep Comanche front and rear?
The front factory speaker is a 5 1/4". The steel should be scored from the factory to allow for 6" to 6 1/2" aftermarket speaker if you want to cut the hole out. The rear also has a 5 1/4" stock speaker. The mods for getting a 6 1/2 or 6x9 is a little more involved than the front.
Do they make a code scanner for 1989 Jeep Comanche?
No, the '89 is still the renix based control unit. Commonly available scanners will not work with a renix system since it stores no codes. I have heard that dealerships used to have some sort of scan tool that worked on renix based motors, but I've yet to hear of anyone who actually has such a tool nowadays.
Renix systems are generally investigated using a volt meter to read the input/output voltages of various sensors and comparing these readings against known "proper" voltages. If a voltage reading is off, the sensor needs replacing.
How rare is a short bed manual 5 speed straight 6 4x4 jeep Comanche?
Very, Very rare, less then 2000 made in a year
Location of turn signal flasher 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee?
It's located above the fuse panel, below and to the left of the steering wheel. You'll need to remove the upper and lower dash trim around the steering wheel. In your service manual there should be a fuse and relay diagram, the one you're looking for is the "Flasher" unit. On my 99 Laredo it is at the very top of the unit (in a hard to reach space) third from the left. The relay is about twice the size of the other relays. Try jiggling it around before replacing, in my case it wasnt quite seated properly.
Where is temperature sending unit on 1987 jeep 4.0 liter Comanche?
If you are standing in front the truck, looking at the engine, the sensor is located near the right, rear corner of the valve cover.
Where can you find REAL performance parts for a 86 Jeep Comanche?
Simply put... nowhere.This model year of Comanche only came with a 2.5 litre 4 cylinder motor or the sad GM 2.8 litre V-6 engine. Neither are worth "hopping up". That being said, there may be some GM guys that would tell you that the old 2.8 motor can be improved, but that will have to come from a GM guy... which I admit that I am not.But I suspect that unless you've got deep pockets, this is not a practical pursuit.
AddendumRecently I replaced a defunct 2.8L V6 engine in a 1986 Jeep Comanche (automatic transmission, 2WD with a "GM Performance Parts 'Crate Engine'", which was a 3.4L V6 partial assembly engine which was designed as a bolt-up drop-in replacement for the 2.8L engines which were the main engine for the early Chevy S-10 pickups.This engine cost me an even U$2000.00 with an installation charge (3rd-party) of a bit over U$1000. The engine is shipped in a crate to the destination. You have to remove most of the exterior fittings from the old engine, including both manifolds, though optional manifold choices to replace the old stock parts are available, including a nice light aluminum Edelbrock manifold designed to accomodate a Holley 390CFM 4-bbl carb. The engine's excellent 100K-mile warranty will be voided if you use throttle-body injection. I stuck with the original manifold but will be replacing the lousy progressive-carb VaraJet 2-bbl with a Weber DGAS 38 synchronized 2-bbl carb. The stock engine is rated at 155 horsepower. After the engine swap, for the first 1200 miles I experienced a lot of rough running, but the power improvement was apparent, especially in terms of low-RPM torque. By the end of the 1200 miles of break-in (I babied it, okay? with oil changes at 300 and 600 miles) the engine runs almost smoothly at idle and is a very very strong puller. But due to the 3-speed transmission (A MOPAR TorqueFlite A-904, I think) and the wide gearing and the load-hauling DANA 80 rear-end, this will never be a race machine. Instead, it is a versatile and adaptable light hauling vehicle. With the old 2.8L (172 c.i.d.) engine I could easily haul a full bed of topsoil, I'm sure it's much more easy now. I should mention that as long as you keep the RPM fairly low, this engine has a _lot_ of power, all you need for a light utility pickup. Winding it out is pretty much a waste of time and engine. Just kick it hard through first gear and let it drop into 2nd, kick it as hard as you can without downshifting, you should be going 45 pretty quickly and if you let off the gas it will drop into converter-locked in 1:1 drive gear, and at that point it has _very_ nice power as long as you don't kick it down into 2nd, which over 50 will simply shake you half to death and not give you much more speed. Between about 45MPH and 65MPH, this thing just runs down the highway with as much as you can load into it and still keep the front wheels on the ground. Hills are not a concern.
What is a concern is that you get the electric fuel pump installed correctly. This replacement Crate Engine doesn't have a mechanical fuel pump and it's not an option. So, get the fuel pump recommended by the Crate Engines site for the engine. Also, find some place to mount it other than inside the engine compartment; on a hot day the temperature will get up around the boiling point for gasoline, and the pump also gets that hot, or hotter. It's not designed to pump vapor. You will get vapor lock, this happens to me all too often. But there aren't too many better places unless you want to re-fit the fuel line into the engine compartment from the fuel tank. (You could possibly rig a cooling fan, not that bad an idea.) The ideal place would be where the fuel line comes out of the gas-tank but you will need to fabricate some sort of protective cover for it if you do that. Also, be sure to use a 4-connector oil-pressure sensor switch to make sure that the pump doesn't operate unless the engine's turning. Otherwise you could find yourself with a stopped engine and perhaps a severed hose, after an accident, with the fuel-pump still working and possibly feeding a fire in the engine compartment. If you install a close-mounted cooling fan to deal with pump heating problems in the engine compartment, this oil-pressure sensor switch control for the fuel pump is probably essential. Also, don't forget to make sure that the carb is fed by a T-fitting so that unused gas will be returned to the tank as in the original design, via the unused-fuel return tube.
If you have one of these and want to fix it up, I recommend replacing the A-904 with a RH-40 (basically the heavy-hauler hydraulic-control modern TorqueFlite with overdrive and locking torque-converter), getting the GM 3.4L Crate Engine, replacing the crappy VaraJet with a Weber DGAS 38 2-bbl, and possibly replacing the rear-end with something geared for better gas mileage.
A shift-kit and perhaps some diddling of the transmission control module might enable you to get torque-converter locking in any gear, and much sharper shifts, and in fact a kickdown-suppress switch might be very useful to help you get the most out of the excellent low-speed torque after the engine swap.
Enjoy!
