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Jeep Comanche
Produced between 1986 and 1992, the Jeep Comanche was a pickup truck version of the Cherokee compact SUV. Available as a rear-wheel and four-wheel drive model, the vehicle’s body, suspension and styling was based on the Jeep Cherokee.
271 Questions
Where is temperature sending unit on 1987 jeep 4.0 liter Comanche?
If you are standing in front the truck, looking at the engine, the sensor is located near the right, rear corner of the valve cover.
Where can you find REAL performance parts for a 86 Jeep Comanche?
Simply put... nowhere.This model year of Comanche only came with a 2.5 litre 4 cylinder motor or the sad GM 2.8 litre V-6 engine. Neither are worth "hopping up". That being said, there may be some GM guys that would tell you that the old 2.8 motor can be improved, but that will have to come from a GM guy... which I admit that I am not.But I suspect that unless you've got deep pockets, this is not a practical pursuit.
AddendumRecently I replaced a defunct 2.8L V6 engine in a 1986 Jeep Comanche (automatic transmission, 2WD with a "GM Performance Parts 'Crate Engine'", which was a 3.4L V6 partial assembly engine which was designed as a bolt-up drop-in replacement for the 2.8L engines which were the main engine for the early Chevy S-10 pickups.This engine cost me an even U$2000.00 with an installation charge (3rd-party) of a bit over U$1000. The engine is shipped in a crate to the destination. You have to remove most of the exterior fittings from the old engine, including both manifolds, though optional manifold choices to replace the old stock parts are available, including a nice light aluminum Edelbrock manifold designed to accomodate a Holley 390CFM 4-bbl carb. The engine's excellent 100K-mile warranty will be voided if you use throttle-body injection. I stuck with the original manifold but will be replacing the lousy progressive-carb VaraJet 2-bbl with a Weber DGAS 38 synchronized 2-bbl carb. The stock engine is rated at 155 horsepower. After the engine swap, for the first 1200 miles I experienced a lot of rough running, but the power improvement was apparent, especially in terms of low-RPM torque. By the end of the 1200 miles of break-in (I babied it, okay? with oil changes at 300 and 600 miles) the engine runs almost smoothly at idle and is a very very strong puller. But due to the 3-speed transmission (A MOPAR TorqueFlite A-904, I think) and the wide gearing and the load-hauling DANA 80 rear-end, this will never be a race machine. Instead, it is a versatile and adaptable light hauling vehicle. With the old 2.8L (172 c.i.d.) engine I could easily haul a full bed of topsoil, I'm sure it's much more easy now. I should mention that as long as you keep the RPM fairly low, this engine has a _lot_ of power, all you need for a light utility pickup. Winding it out is pretty much a waste of time and engine. Just kick it hard through first gear and let it drop into 2nd, kick it as hard as you can without downshifting, you should be going 45 pretty quickly and if you let off the gas it will drop into converter-locked in 1:1 drive gear, and at that point it has _very_ nice power as long as you don't kick it down into 2nd, which over 50 will simply shake you half to death and not give you much more speed. Between about 45MPH and 65MPH, this thing just runs down the highway with as much as you can load into it and still keep the front wheels on the ground. Hills are not a concern.
What is a concern is that you get the electric fuel pump installed correctly. This replacement Crate Engine doesn't have a mechanical fuel pump and it's not an option. So, get the fuel pump recommended by the Crate Engines site for the engine. Also, find some place to mount it other than inside the engine compartment; on a hot day the temperature will get up around the boiling point for gasoline, and the pump also gets that hot, or hotter. It's not designed to pump vapor. You will get vapor lock, this happens to me all too often. But there aren't too many better places unless you want to re-fit the fuel line into the engine compartment from the fuel tank. (You could possibly rig a cooling fan, not that bad an idea.) The ideal place would be where the fuel line comes out of the gas-tank but you will need to fabricate some sort of protective cover for it if you do that. Also, be sure to use a 4-connector oil-pressure sensor switch to make sure that the pump doesn't operate unless the engine's turning. Otherwise you could find yourself with a stopped engine and perhaps a severed hose, after an accident, with the fuel-pump still working and possibly feeding a fire in the engine compartment. If you install a close-mounted cooling fan to deal with pump heating problems in the engine compartment, this oil-pressure sensor switch control for the fuel pump is probably essential. Also, don't forget to make sure that the carb is fed by a T-fitting so that unused gas will be returned to the tank as in the original design, via the unused-fuel return tube.
If you have one of these and want to fix it up, I recommend replacing the A-904 with a RH-40 (basically the heavy-hauler hydraulic-control modern TorqueFlite with overdrive and locking torque-converter), getting the GM 3.4L Crate Engine, replacing the crappy VaraJet with a Weber DGAS 38 2-bbl, and possibly replacing the rear-end with something geared for better gas mileage.
A shift-kit and perhaps some diddling of the transmission control module might enable you to get torque-converter locking in any gear, and much sharper shifts, and in fact a kickdown-suppress switch might be very useful to help you get the most out of the excellent low-speed torque after the engine swap.
Enjoy!
What is the spark plug gap for a 1987 Jeep Comanche 4.0l?
.34 - .37 is optimal any more than that you'll have to replace them more often.
WHere are the fuse and relay for the fuel pump on a 1986 Jeep Comanche?
The fuse and relay for the fuel pump are located in the engine. The pump itself is located in the gas tank.
Jeep Comanche stalls won't restart no sound like its trying to start any ideas?
Could be a number of things. First check if its a fuel problem.Are you out of gas? Sounds dumb but I have seen this too many times before. Carefully put a couple ounces of fuel in the engine air intake. If it starts and runs for a few seconds, its a fuel problem, check clogged filter, fuel pump. Todays cars are so complicated you typically need a "Good manual" like Mitchel try your library and check the troubleshooting section. If you aren't getting any spark you've several choices, depending on the year of the vehicle. Pickup-coil, crankshaft position sensor, ignition coil.
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Egr valve in 1986 jeep comanche?
The 1986 Jeep Comanche EGR valve is located on the outside of the air cleaner housing. The valve can be found on the back of the housing.
What causes a motor to backfire out of the intake manifold?
A leaking spark plug wire can cause a backfire out of the intake, but the most common cause is a burned intake valve. A burnt intake valve will allow leakage during the compression stroke back through the intake causing a popping backfire out of the intake manifold.
What is the towing capacity of an 1987 Jeep Comanche 2.5L?
I have an 86 Comanche 2wd, 2.5 I4 throttle body fuel injected. I have towed a 2500 pound trailer with it fine (although it did slow down on the hills). I don't have the manual with me right now, but I think it said that a frame-mount hitch is needed for heavier than 2000 lbs. I have a bumper hitch which says "350 lbs max. tongue weight, 3500 lbs. max trailer weight" so I didn't bother with a frame deal. HOWEVER, I have a manual transmission, so that made it easier to tow. the engine won't seem to have as much power if you have an auto.
What would cause my 1988 Comanche 4.0 to idle OK but misfire terribly upon acceleration?
Answer it could be that the vacuum advance on the distributor is not working. You need a timing light to be able to tell, but when the accelerator is pushed down, this causes the engine vacuum to increase, which should automatically advance the ignition timing. If the hose has come loose, or has a hole in it, the distributor will not advance. The vacuum advance itself also might be bad.
A bad spark plug(s) or spark plug wire(s) could also cause those symptoms.
What does the part time lamp on the dash board upper left side mean?
The "part-time" indicator light illuminates when the vehicle's transmission is positioned into the 4 wheel drive status. Once the vehicle is returned to 2 wheel drive the front hub locks disengage and the indicator light goes out.
What would cause a 1991 Jeep Comanche to start then quickly die?
According to Haynes Repair Manual 1984 through 2000: Cherokee, Wagoneer, Comanche; "1. Loose or damaged wire harness connections at distributor, coil or alternator. 2. Intake manifold vacuum leaks. Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are tight and all vacuum hoses connected to the maifold are attached properly and in good condition. 3. Insuffucuent fuel flow."
How much transmission fluid does a 1988 jeep Comanche manual transmission take?
the BA-10/5 transmission (made by Peugeot) found in early 87-mid 89 Comanche and Cherokee with L6, 4.0 L engine specifies 4.9 PINTS (2.45 qt) of 80wt. GL-4 specification
Should I buy Running 1986 jeep Comanche 5 speed 700.00 but has v6 engine good or bad?
YES! My friend has an '89 Comanche 4.0 litre V6. it's a great little truck and has 230K+ miles on it.
There is "No 4.0L V6", the 4.0L an inline 6 cyl. The 4.0L gets high mileage not so with the V6 2.8.
Where is the jack stored in a 1991 Toyota Previa?
fuel pump could be faulty, my jeep is very common to have issues when i hit the GAS PEDAL or try to take a sharp turn, the fuel gauge went down, i had to replace the fuel pump 2 times because of hard starting, but my jeep never died, if it isn't the fuel pump, it could be fuel filter, try to check the fuel delivery system.
AnswerI've got a 86 comanche. I've had it for 4yrs now. the only problum I've had is I hit some pot holes at work and it killed the coil. I've hit alot of holes since then and havn't hand any more troublesorry DEC also if it's a 2.5 MJ , check your gound wires that connect to the rear of the head..... they have been left off before !! just touching the block...the thing would stsrt and run but go around a corner or hit a bump and she would shut down and hard to start !
Answer
If it's like mine it's got a loose connection on the fuel pump inside the tank. Take the pump out of the tank , run the truck close to empty first , there are some electrical connections that come loose . I discovered this after I bought a new pump, when I removed the pump I realized the problem. I made the repair and returned the new pump, made the fix over a year ago, no more problems since.
How do you adjust the clutch on a 1989 jeep Comanche?
You cannot adjust the clutch. It is hydraulic, with a master cylinder and slave cylinder in the transmission. Their are no adjustments. Make sure system has fluid and no leaks.
88 jeep Comanche adjust timing?
THE timing on a 88 Comanche w/inline six cyl. is set at the factory and not adjustable.
Where is the fuel filter on a 1990 Jeep Comanche?
Check under the drivers door side under the vehicle for the fuel line. It has a canister type fuel filter.
What is the bed length and the rail to rail length of a Comanche short bed?
short bed's are 6 feet and long beds are 7 feet
i have an 87 wrangler with 4.2 carb motor, v-belt, and used 2 different style 1/4 thickness alternator adjustment brackets and a tranglular bracket piece from the junk yard. i used the holes where the comp used to mount. alignment of the belt wasnt to hard either. use the 2 adjusting brackets on top and trangular one on bottom left, facing engine. the adjustment brackets i mounted on top are on top are a 1/4 inch thick and , i mounted the single hole in the old comp. mounting holes front and back ,on the backside of old comp. mounting hoes, you need brckets that have an offset on the end where the single hole is. i think mine came off dodge pickup 360 engine alternator , hopefully you can get a rough idea of what i did never had any problems. it did take some patience playing with brackets to get it right, but didnt have to drill any holes, oh, the upper brackets are 5" long and have an offset on single hole end , and the bottom piece is 4 9/16" center to center kid of triangular shaped which helps add strenghth
Why does your 1988 Jeep Comanche stall and not start when it runs for a while and gets hot?
well, there's a doohicky called a TCC solenoid. Basically, when the engine exceeds a certain temperature and the vehicle attains a certain speed, this solenoid engages and locks the lower gears out of the transmission. This feature significantly improves mileage because it makes the transmission lighter. When the vehicle drops back below a certain speed, the solenoid clicks off and drops the lower gears back into the drivetrain.
However, this particular solenoid is located IN the transmission, so it gets sticky after a few years, leading to a situation where the lower gears stay locked and the car makes an unpleasant BAM sound as it tries to shift into lower gears.
The short term solution is to disconnect the solenoid, though this will cost you a little mpg. Any mechanic worth a cent will be able to do this in about 30 seconds and won't charge you for it. Replacement is rather expensive as it involves taking the transmission apart.
old mechanics trick is to spray carb/ throttle body cleaner around various parts of engine and see if it makes the engine almost die out or does die out that will be a general area to check NOTE: use extreme caution when doing this because it can cause a fire or explosion if its sprayed too much on exhaust or other hot parts
How do you remove a manual transmission from an 1988 Jeep Comanche?
