Jeep Comanche

It is under the back of the cab on the inside of the unibody rail.

Sounds like an airlock. You could try bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way but with the engine running so servo/power brake pressure shifts the airlock.

I assume from your question that you may be looking for Comanche taillights? Since Jeep quit selling them about 3 years ago, they have been very hard to find. Due to the limited production of the Comanche, aftermarket companys have not reproduced them and they lights have actually become quite rare. If you search Jeep Comanche taillight on eBay you may have some success if you are persistent.

Not hard at all if you are talking electric replacement Just tap into fuel line close to the tank and run wires to blank spot in fuse box Or wire to reverse lights, but that means you will be driving around with reverse lights on all the time!

it is 57inches to the bolt centers.cheroke are51inches

the gauge that you need to fix is on the elec. fule pump that is inside of the gas tankyou will need to drop your gas tank to get to the fule pump. ....when you get the pump out you will see a wire float attachment on the side of the elec. pump. ....you need to bind the attachment either up or down so that it changes the position of the float ball that's there ....that will change the position of your gauge also .....good luck .....try to drop your tank when theres not much gas in the tank .....it will make it a lot eaiser to deal with getting it back up and bolted back on

Crankshaft Sensor is located at back of engine near the flywheel. Two bolts hold it on and there is a connector with two wires. CPS cost approx. $30. Screw out 2 bolts, undo connector and pull out of engine block. Their may also be a dust cover and shims. Enjoy.

unfortanatly this question has no answer. kbb only goes to 1993 and therfore will not price your car. however, i can estemate that if your truck has 150k miles, i would value it around 2500-5000 depending on the condition

you push the lever on the upper left side of the bowl

If you look carefully, there are 5 or 6 relays. Fuel pump, B-Latch, AC, Air Stepper Motor, O2 heater and Starter relays.

I just completed replacing a heater core on my 1989 comanchie. You must be mechanically inclined as you have to remove the entire dash from drivers side to passenger side. I removed the lower dash with the ashtray in it first, then the glovebow door,right sideand under glove box moldings. Dash instrument/radio/heat-A/C controls molding. Instrument Cluster.Heater controls.Radio. Headlight switch. Remove the defrost vent moldings to reveal dash mounting hardware. The remainder of the base for the dash has to have the pop rivits drilled out to remove it from the metal brace that runs from the steering column to the passenger side and the drivers side- Or remove the steering column which I opted to not do. Remove the Blower Motor. Disconnect the Heater hoses and A/C hoses. Remove the three nuts around the blower motor that hold the evaporator box to the firewall.Remove the whole evaporator and blower box from firewall inside vehicle to expose the heatercore in the center of the lower dash.heater core is held in with only 2 screws. There are multiple fasteners throughout this disassembly that have to be located and removed and kept track of for reassembly. I opted to replace my evaporator core also since it needs to be removed anyway. The removal alone took me 8 hrs to do.

first you need to disconnect the fuel lines at the pump on the side of the gas tank. then take a screwdriver and a hammer and find little rises on the ring around the fuel pump. tap on the rises going counter clockwise until the ring stops (about an inch and a half of movement) the fuel pump will then be loose and you can pull it out. try not to be under it though because you will be soaked in gas.

Unless you plan on re-fabbing the engine compartment and swapping out the tranny to squeeze in an Inline 6 I think your only two options would be the 2.5l 4cyl or the gutless GM 2.8l v6. I did some online research and according to a lot of people, installing the v6 is a waste of time and the hp increase is dissappointing.

1-5-3-6-2-4

there isn't one...

Dana 30 front. Most comonly used is a Dana 35 rear. Some came with a D44 - which is a very nice stock upgrade. Dana 35's are round with a slight oval. D44's are kinda diamond shaped.. kinda. www.jeepmj.com

no the fuel pump is on the passenger side of the fuel tank. tight fit but can be done with some patience!

all I want is a simple unadulterated answer to the question that I have asked. I do not want to have to auction off the farm to get it answered. If you can help - fine. If not - worry about the bother. thanks.....

from PCM (powertrain control module)

Ahhh.... The bain of any Jeeper.... will one Jeep engine fit another Jeep application???? With the AMC 360 you're pretty safe as far as the engine goes. But you better make certain that the Mopar 727 will work without all the computer junk. It's going to be the '73s lack of electronics that's going to be the problem. You're going to have to swap the intake and exhaust manifolds for sure, front bracketry for the smog pump, and qute possibly the pulleys too. Jeep4x.com and Grandwagoneer.com is a great source for intormation. I've been down this road in the mixing and matching of Jeep running gear into a non Jeep vehicle. Lots of fun. Kept the axles, but ran with a non Jeep engine and tranny.

Resubmit question describing what is happenign or not happening. This question is too broad.

You can't adjust valves, all you can do is clean or replace them.

There are several things that can cause this in your 1988 Jeep. The most common cause is a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator.

the order is 1-3-4-2 in a clockwise direction on the distributor. the front of the motor is the #1 cylinder. heres a link to this if it will be allowed http://www.jeepz.com/forum/engine/16922-four-cylinder-2-5liter-jeep-engine-specs.html?t-16922.html=