Lincoln Mark VIII

my answer to this question comes from my own problem with my 93 Lincoln mark VIII. the wheather stripping around the rear glass had severe dry rot, and the only way i could replace it was to remove the rear glass. the wheather stripping actually is grooved to sit under the glass, thus the sealant holding the glass has to be removed.

Yes you can and not that bad a job. There are a couple of people that sell the conversion on E-Bay and the complete set is like $400.00 and you can get a set that lowers the car 1 1/2" too. Hope this helps.

I can help you with compression test, but not fuel. Remove all spark plugs Make sure battery is fully charged Hold accelerator to floor Place compression gauge in one cylinder at a time and record readings. Consistency is more important than actual numbers There should not be more than a 10% discrepancy between the highest and lowest.

This was the least difficult thing I have worked on with my Mark VIII. It took me about 1 hour from start to finish. Drain the system to save mess, or don't and just put a bucket under the car. Disconnect the top two large hoses. Remove four pulley bolts. Take belt off pulley (flex arm pulley is left of water pump pulley). Remove four bolts holding WP on. Pry water pump out and replace it. Thats it.

Start by pressing "Reset" and then press "Clock". You should now see only the first number highlighted ... which represents the clock hour. Press "Set" for about a second to advance that number forward until it reaches your current hour. Remember, keep pressing "Set" until it shows the correct hour.After you have set the hour, press "Clock" again to advance to the next digit to set the minutes. And so on until all is set correctly. Remember, repeat the same procedure for each, until you have the hour, minute, date, and month set. After you set the last digit, press "Clock" one final time to save it and completely set it. That's it your done!

Look to the far left drivers side pedal area and there is a small pedal which is the parking brake which releases when you put the shifter in drive or reverse.

Possibly yes if the engine temp also shows cool and not at operating range. If engine temp is good then check the air mix door on the heater it may not be closing off the outside air completely.

I presume you are asking about the valve timing, not the ignition timing for the 460cid engine. In theory, you could just install a timing set (crank and cam gears, new timing chain) for a 1972 engine. It will fit, and the cams are the same. This will do a couple of things. 1. The car will no longer meet emissions standards. (This is no joke. Did you know keeping your '77 tuned up will let it meet the emission inspection "cut points" for a 1994 model?) 2. Low end torque will improve, but the power band will move lower. My reference lists a difference of only 6 HP from '72 to '77, and the '72 had a higher compression ratio. They did more than just retard the cam. What will the job involve? Removing all of the accessories, water pump, timing cover, etc. Buy a Haynes or Chilton's manual for your car for step-by-step instructions.

Not normally but with mods. you can fit anything on anything.

that means your compressor is about to die and you need to have it replaced before it completely dies other wise your going to have loads of fun replacing it when it does die I'm in the process of changing on right now on my 94

Unscrew the plastic drain petcock lower drivers' engine side of the radiator and take off the filler cap

bad master cylinder

When I bought a 'kit' to do the same with my 95 town car, it came with a blurry pdf showing a wire to cut that came off the computer which is mounted ahead of (behind) the glove box. I could get to it without much trouble, IIRC I unscrewed the glove box lining and it pulled right out, revealing the computer with its wiring.

Sadly I do NOT have the pdf showing which wire to cut. But what I can tell you (at least for my town car and I suspect for other years and models as wel) is there is not a 'fuse' that you could pull to resolve the situation, without also adversely affecting something else. In my case the variable steering effort control would have been disabled had I pulled the fuse...which would leave the town car with full assist steering, which was very disconcerting to me.

Good luck in resolving your problem...so I can tell you it's "cut a wire", sorry I cant get you right to the correct wire to cut...

Paul

If you don't have a scanner take it to Auto Zone or I think even Advantage does it and they will tell you what the code is and erase the code for you.

No, but you can install a spring suspension.

It sounds like you have what I've always called a "Ford Shudder". It normally occurs under light acceleration when shifting to overdrive. It is not uncommon in Ford rear drive automatic transmissions and occurs when the trans fluid needs changing. I would recommend having the trans fluid and filter changed (do not have it flushed). When you have it done have them drain the torque converter as well. Have the fluid replaced with Mercon V fluid. This is more expensive but is a fully synthetic fluid. I also usually put a bottle (I think it's 4 oz) of Ford friction modifier. You can get it at the Ford dealership. It was developed originally for rear ends but works excellent in Ford rear wheel drive transmissions.

The "Check Engine" light means that the computer has stored a fault code. You need to use a code scanner to read the fault code. Code scanners can be borrowed, rented or purchased at most auto parts retail stores.

Yes

Yes, this is the usual way.

I would try checking the engine fan to make sure that it engages when it gets to operating temp.

13 quarts that is including the torque converter

On the underside of the engine passenger side toward the back of the engine.

AWSF-32C is the stock plugs

Probably not the dealer, if yes the price would be sky high, try E-Bay, probably best bet. There are a few guys on there that sell just Mark Vlll parts.