Mercedes-Benz SL-Class

The battery is located in the trunk, on the right side. You should find a small black knob on top of the inner panel. Unlatch the knob and the panel should drop down. You should see a big, black plastic box with two metal lock down straps. Unlatch those metal straps and remove the black cover. There's the battery. If you're going to replace the battery, I recommend a DIE HARD from Sears. They cost just a couple of dollars more, but more than make up for it with the performance and their warranty. Sears still has the best battery for the money. Also, make sure that it's the proper size....these Mercedes use a very powerful battery. Again, the DIE HARD never let me down. Also remember, a battery usually lasts for no more than 4 years in So Cal...less in colder climates.

There should be a button that ejects the entire CD holder. Then you should see the individual CDs. The arrangement will probably be a "swing out" holder for each CD.

Power is not normally involved. There are some crank hoists (and yes power ones) that you can purchase, which if you have a high enough space to attach them, then have straps that go around the top and lift it. But all that does is get it hanging up there! The carts they make for storing and moving them are very handy though. Any MB accessory place or Ebay for sources.

These are heavy suckers! 2 people please!

Basically same as lowering soft top.

Release the rear securing latch, using the lever behind drivers door.

Release the 2 twist secure point up front, using the separate handled provided to do so. (Commonly tossed in glove box).

There may be some wires to unclip on the passenger side, if you model has rear window heat or such).

One person each side and up she comes! Sure, there is a rubber gasket on front and back that may be a little sticky. I recommend the 2 people agree to lift together, and then walk together with it toward the rear of the car in one motion....you want to avoid bouncing or putting it back down on the car paint.

There are two instrument cluster removeal hooks that slide in at either side of the cluster. You insert them to the marked line on the tools & turn them 90 degrees & pull the cluster out toward the steering wheel. The tools are available at your MB dealer for a very reasonable price or you can find them on Ebay but I found them at the dealer for much less.

The fuel pump is just behind the rear axle and in front of the fuel tank. There are two cylinders, one is larger than the other...that is the fuel filter, the other unit is the fuel pump. If you plan on removing it, be very careful not to "ground" your tools, it could cause a spark, and ignite the fuel that will be seeping out of the loose fuel lines. I would suggest to disconnect the battery cable to avoid any problems. I would also suggest that you replace the fuel filter at the same time...it's easier to do both at the same time. As a matter of fact, a fuel filter that hasn't been replaced in a long time can contribute to a bad fuel flow.

I have two hardtops for a 1978 450 sl. One is astral silver and the other is light ivory. Both are in excellent condition. If you have a interest please send me an e-mail at jerry@greenfield.tc.

Its best to remove everything from the trunk! The driver's side remove the [6 CD] changer from its metal support by removing the two Phillip's shrew's. Remove the CD changer support bracket [2. 8mm] bolts then remove the clips from the trunk lining and remove the trunk lining. You will now see the antenna motor assembly. Unscrew the top of the antenna from the rear fender [13 mm spanner]. there is one 10 mm shrew holding the antenna onto the metal chassis of the trunk. Remove the evaporation system charcoal canister from the wheel well by pulling it [up] to remove it from the clips. this must be done to create clearance to remove the antenna unit. Then remove the antenna cable from the antenna unit.

as I understand it There appears to be a air conditioner module behind the radio in the center console which is actually tied in with two other computers onboard and the module is not sending information to start the compressor. Cost as I understand is about , are you ready? Eleven hundred ( $ 1,100.00 ) dollars. Plus labor. At least that is true for a 2003 SL 500. from Mercedes Tech.

There are 3 ways to open the trunk of the Mercedes cls 500:

1) Use the remote key, press and hold the right bottom button

2) Use button located in driver side door, near front of map pocket.

3) Under trunk lid (approximately center of license plate) there is a lever. pull it towards you with your fingers. NOTE: All doors must be unlocked.

Aufrecht Melcher Grossaspach

Same as hard top. You use the sperate handle, (check the glove boxes), that slides into the slot on the 2 round disks that rotate and either tighten or loosens the front of it. The disks have a screw like mechanisim with a prong that aligns it.

Wiring diagrams are designed to tell you what the different wires are for in your 1973 Mercedes. These diagrams are found in your owner's manual and repair manuals.

Go to your local Mercedes dealer, give them your VIN number (or have them check it on the car), and they can make a key for it using that info. This assumes the part with the lock (center console or glove box) has the original lock.

Pop the hood. Right in front of your face will be a small, black cylindrical reservoir with a black screw cap. It is unlabeled. Open it up. Pour in power steering fluid. Pop the hood. Right in front of your face will be a small, black cylindrical reservoir with a black screw cap. It is unlabeled. Open it up. Pour in power steering fluid.

When my 99 LHS wouldn't start I got my starter changed and the car started.

You can not reset this key. You must go to the dealer. It is hardcoded and can only be set one time. A new key must be ordered. There are no resets.

easyer if you call me at 210-535-4035 ask for rob.

Picture of oil pump 32

There could be a couple of reasons why your car won't start. Apparently, your battery is not the problem. So, you might want to check: Is there gas in the car? Have you checked the distributor cap? Make sure its intact and not cracked, and that all of the wires are in place. Check the electronic ignition unit on the side of the left front fender. Make sure all of the wires are intact. If you''re handy with tools, you might want to check the spark by taking a plug wire off a plug, place a spark plug into the wire and lay it on the valve cover or exhaust manifold. While cranking the car over, check to see if there's a spark....that would mean that your getting spark and the ignition would seem good. It could also be a clogged fuel line...do you smell gas coming from under the hood when you tried to start the car? If you did, it's probably not a fuel problem. Also...you might want to check all the wiring under the hood...a friend of mine had a similar problem and it turned out that he had a RAT PROBLEM....these rats chewed through about $1,200.00 worth of wiring in just a couple of days...so check out the location you park your car for rat droppings, or other signs of infestation. If these suggestions I listed don't seem to help, you'll have to take the car to a mechanic

A person should replace the power roof fuse to help fix it, if it is stuck open. In the meantime,a Êperson can try to pull it shut with their hand or their tools.Ê

It sounds like you have a bad blower motor. I don't know if you're hearing a whistling sound, but a bearing sound. I had that same problem once. By letting the blower run at different speeds, I was able to get rid of that sound. If that doesn't stop the noise, you'll probably need to replace the blower box. However, since I obviously can't hear the noise in person, there's one other thing you can check. You might have a vacuum leak in your system. A whistling noise could be a broken diaphram. There are 4 of those vacuum units inside the dash area. If you have a vacuum pressure guage, you can hook it into the system, run the heater, and see if there's a leak in the system...you can also check each unit separately...but you will have to remove the glove box and possibly the instrument cluster and radio to access these vacuum units. Other than what I've mentioned, I don't know what else it could be. My guess is, its a vacuum module. Remember, if one starts to go, the others are not far behind...and since accessing these units can be a pain in the ass, you might want to check, and replace the others as well. Also, you want to check all the air lines and connections for leaks. A honest mechanic might be a good way to go too...this stuff can be a nightmare if you don't have good mechanical skills.

The over voltage protection relay on a 1992 Mercedes-Benz SL 500 is typically located in the engine compartment, near the battery or within the fuse box area. It may be mounted on the inner fender or attached to the main relay panel. For precise identification, it's advisable to consult the vehicle's service manual or wiring diagrams specific to that model.

To remove the rear speakers from a 1997 Mercedes-Benz SL 500, first, ensure the car is turned off and the battery is disconnected for safety. Next, carefully remove the rear side panels by unscrewing any screws and gently prying them off with a trim tool to avoid damage. Once the panels are off, locate the speaker mounts, disconnect the wiring harness, and unscrew the speakers from their housing. Finally, lift the speakers out and replace or service them as needed.