Mercury Villager

Cam position is taken from the distributor, there is no separate sensor near the cams.

A 1997 Villager has a red button behind the driver side kick panel next to parking brake pedal. I found it by going to Ford.com/parts down loaded the owners manual. If you don't have the owners manual thy this.

The Fuel Pump reset is behind the parking brake release knob.

In a 1998 Mercury Villager, the mass air flow sensor is located in the air intake tube. The air intake tube goes from the air box to the intake.

The PCV valve is located on the back side of the intake plenum.. When facing the engine, locate the second intake from your right. Run your hand to the back side of the intake plenum. The PCV valve is screwed into the backside. Start the engine, disconnect the hose from the valve. You should hear the air from the valve. Stick your finger on the hole and you should feel the vacuum on a good valve. If not, replace it.

The wiper motor is located in front of the windshield under the cowl grille. 1. Remove both wiper arms.2. Remove six screws from the cowl grille at the base of the windshield.3. Open the hood.4. Remove the four plastic screwsand anchors from the forward edge of the cowl.5. Disconnect the washer hose and lift the cowl grille from the car.6. Locate the wiper motor on the driver side7. Remove the three bolts that hold the motor and the shaft nut that holds the wiper arm.8. Remove motor.

PH 7317.

1 Remove the plug on the oil pan with a wrench and drain the oil into a drain pan. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Place a support jack under the crankshaft pulley.

2 Remove the support bolts on the front and rear engine mounts, along with the hold-down brackets on the two rear refrigerant/heater pipes.

3 Disconnect the front and rear transaxle bolts and the brace holding the transaxle to the engine. Unhook the connector on the oil level sensor.

4 Loosen the bolts on the oil pan, working from the outside towards the center. Remove the pan and scrape away the old seal with a paint scraper. Make sure that all the parts are clean, and that the old gasket seal has been completely removed.

5 Put a new gasket in place and seal it with silicone sealer. Replace the oil pan and tighten the bolts in sequence, starting with the inner bolts and working out.

6 Replace the connector on the oil level sensor, the front and rear transaxle braces, the exhaust inlet pipe, the crossmember bolts and crossmember, and the front and rear engine support through-bolts.

7 Slide out the support jack and lower the vehicle. Fill the engine with clean oil. Mercury recommends that the optimum oil for the Villager is SAE 5W-30.

You don't, you replace or rebuild the engine.

Right next to and above the oil filter.

Taken from similar answer on this site. Most of them have the orig locking code on a piece of tape located on the underside of the rear lift gate - most of the time just to the right of the latch. On my 1994 Villager the code is printed under the panel of the center console- where the radio,a/c,ashtray, etc. I had to remove the panel on the driver side next to the floor and it was printed on a piece of tape in there. Good Luck!

This can be a tricky process. Unless you have some experience with vehicles, it might be best to leave to the professionals.

Trouble code P1320 means: Distributor Signal Interrupt

Front of the transmission, the thing the shift cable attaches to.

Ther are two possible causes. Either the lens seam is separated or the gasket on the bulb housing is torn/missing. Replace the gasket. Clean the lens seam, a tooth brush works well for this, and seal with silicone.

i have a 95 Mercury Villager,,it keeps eating Starters,,except its not the Flywheel,, Just found out that the Flywheel has been Reverseing,,, what would cause that to happin...Help...

Loosen the retainer and pop the bulb out. Do not touch the new bulb when you install it. See sources and related links below for bulb information.

Remove the two slider screws that hold it in place.

The Villager is NOT an interference engine. This is straight from a guy who was engineering liaison between Ford and Nissan on this project. The catalogs that say it is are WRONG.

It's on the throttle body.

My service manual says it is white. I am still trying to find where it comes out and where it goes to from under the intake so I don't have to take the top of the engine off. If I find the wire, the book says to put your VOM on lowest AC setting and tap the intake(metal part) to simulate a knock. There is supposed to be a change in AC voltage. I am also interested in what other sensors may share this circuit as a previous answer indicated. There are also other sensors and the PCV valve back there, so if you are gonna do it, check it all out.

We have a 2000 Villager which blows cooler air while idling, and then warms up when the engine speed increases. I talked to our mechanic and he thinks the cooling system may need to be flushed - the heat comes from warm engine coolant circulating through the heater core. If the cooling system is flushed and the passage ways in the heater core are reopened allowing warm coolant to flow freely, that may solve our problem. I'll have this done, and do a second post with the results.

I had this very same problem on my 1995 villager. I recently read that the probable cause is a leak--sucking air into the system.Turns out this was the case: A 'bad 'elbow-shaped piece of connecting rubber hose, the piece which connects into the side of the power steering fluid reservoir on one end, and down onto a metal pipe, on the other. I tried tightening the clamps on this hose, while I found the underside of the hose, where it made its turn, damp with power steering fluid. I tried tightening the clamps and left it for a day to see if this would cure the problem. It didn't. So I took the hose off to examine it closely. (I syphoned the power steering fluid from the reservoir to just below the level of the hose in question first). Once the hose was off, I could see it was hardened with years of use. Anyway, after I had replaced it with a straight piece of hose formed into a bend, clamping one end of it onto the reservior & the other onto the peice of metal pipe below. it worked like a charm--no more squealing!!

On the sliding door side there should be 2 levers on the side of the bench seat at the bottom and one on the front. Pull the lever on the front to fold up the bottom part of the seat. Once the seat is folded up then you can pull the front lever on the side to move the seat. You may find that you have to stand in front of the seat and pull/push it from the middle. If the seat bottom is not locked in the upward position the seat will not move. **The key to sliding the rear seat, the seat and the back must both be vertical. Only then can you pull the slide lever (lower left of rear seat)and slide the seat up. The seat will then lock in a few positions along the track. Hope this helps!!

Two different switches. The combination switch on the column is most likely the culprit.

This may be fuses. The turn signals and hazard lights are fed by separate circuits.