Mercury Villager

i just chged mine on 2000, hope it's the same 4 yours. the lower have 2 screws after you lift the gate. the high mt. has 2 screws w/gate closed. mine was frozen after i removed the screws, looked like the were the original 7 year old bulbs. i just replaced them both up top. oh, by the way, those thing were expensive !!!!!1

Not all models had a heater control valve. If it has one it's either right in front of the firewall by where the heater hoses go in, or else under the dash near the heater core.

Yes.

There are drain plugs on each side of the block. They are difficult to reach unless you have the car on a lift.

No , according to the Gates website ( they make timing belts etc. ) the 3.0

liter V6 in a 1993 Mercury Villager ( is an interference engine )

The turn signal/hazard flasher is accessed from below the left end of the dashboard with the knee bolster removed. The unit is just above the hood release cable.

check your distributor, it's probably bad. they go for around 250-300 bucks and take about 25 mins to change.

All you need is to recharge the system with freon .

remove the sensor, backprobe the plug with a multimeter set on voltage, tap the knock sensor lightly with a spanner, you should see voltage respond by increasing whenever you tap it, this means your knock sensor is working correctly. if it does not move however it means that the sensor is faulty.

it is under the hood in the fuse box its a big blue square one

older villagers have a problem with the transaxles valve body which causes a hard second gear-there are aftermarket shift kits that remedy this problem,needing to be installed by a competent transmission shop.I have been rebuilding ford automatics for twenty years and have seen this problem several times-used to have to buy a different valve body because of premature wear on shift valve bores,but the shift kits repair the problem rather well.contact your transmission specialist before it damages the 2-4 band or breaks hard parts.

Under the dash to the right of the steering column.

That is difficult to answer since shop costs can vary widely. This vehicle should have the wheels aligned after a ball joint replacement as well, so I'd expect to pay over $200 for the repair.

This is a difficult installation if you are not an experienced dexterous mechanic. The EGR valve is mounted to the rear of the throttle body/upper intake manifold assembly. You will need to loosen the EGR tube that attaches to the rear exhaust manifold. This is best done from under the vehicle. The valve itself is held on by three screws which go in from the back and attach it to the throttle body. One of these screws will be very difficult to reach and invisible, you'll be working by feel. The other two are merely tricky. You won't really be able to see what you are doing. You'll need a small 10mm socket and long extensions to reach from the back and will have to curl you arm around the part to reach the far screw. You'll have to remove various wire harnesses and perhaps some hoses to get if off. It is actually easier to remove the entire upper manifold with the valve attached, just watch out for the small vacuum hoses that attach underneath it. The manifold is plastic so be careful not to break it, and always use new gaskets to put it back on.

At the bottom of the engine, right side, near the front, by the alternator.

I'm not a mechanic / technician but when your engine turns over but doesn't

fire it's either not getting fuel or spark ( or air assuming that no one has

shoved bananas in your exhaust tail pipe ) I would start with the basics , on

the fuel side is there a fuel reset light lit up in your gauge cluster when you try

to start the Mountaineer ( if so , the fuel pump inertia switch has been tripped

the switch is located in the front passenger footwell behind or by the kick

panel ) or it could be the fuel pump fuse , relay . or the actual fuel pump .

As I said I'm not a mechanic / technician so if it is anything on the spark

side I would have it taken to a professional

A bad ignition switch, on your 1995, Mercury Voyager, will cause the vehicle not to start. In most cases a bad ignition will cause the engine not to turn over.

Check your local parts house. You should be able to pick up a wire harness to plug in to you vehicles harness. Alot easier then cutting wires. Check with rental companies. Ryder-budget some will sell the harness also.

Follow the transmission pan up and around front corner. It will curve upward slightly. Reach over this ear and you will feel the sensor wire.

Again, not difficult. But, one of those jobs when you should have a repair manual handy. The knock sensor lies beneath the intake manifold. Components that you would not think about must be removed and the torque sequences for reassembly are very specific.

Knock sensor codes on this vehicle are meaningless, the knock sensor does nothing unless the engine knocks. If you have this code there is more than likely a problem in one of the other emission-related devices, which often triggers this code first. My advice is to ignore it until another code pops up giving you more information about where to look. Do not replace the knock sensor, it will be expensive and will not stop the code from reappearing.

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If you mean the part the oil filter screws to, this is usually a threaded nipple that simply screws in. If it's damaged, you should be able to grab it with a vise grip and screw it out. Not all vehicles may be like this.

For the 3.3 litre V6 engine in a 1999 Mercury Villager :

One of the Ford websites shows ( .044 inch spark plug gap )

The 1999 Mercury Villager Owner Guide shows ( .039 to .043 inch spark plug gap )

* check the Vehicle Emissions Control Information ( VECI ) decal in the front of your engine compartment

It means a fault in the Throttle Position Sensor circuit.