Plymouth Voyager

No, mostly likely this transmission will require servicing from a Chrysler-competent shop. This transmission requires ATF+3 or ATF+4 (which seems to be the only one available these days). These fluids are interchangeable. The reason I am letting you know this is because if you call a trans shop and ask "What kind of fluid should I put into my 1993 Plymouth Voyage?" and they reply Dexron/Mercon you need to hang up the receiver and call the next place. They will tell you that they have some miracle additive that converts Dexron/Mercon to ATF+4 compatible, this isn't true either.

One thing you can try is to get the van above 30 mph and place the gear selector in park for about 3 - 5 seconds. Sometimes the cable gets "caught" internally on the parking sprage, I know it sounds like this is bad; however, it does work 50% of the time to solve most Chrysler trans problems like this one. More than likely the dealer has just sold you a lemon that if you can return you really should.

Here's a link to the truth about vapor lock and why it isn't related:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapour_lock

This almost has to be a bad switch. Replace the switch and it should work correctly. It is on the column then the it is not so easy. Have someone do it. If it is on the dash these are pretty simple. Just unplug them then unbolt it then replace. Good luck.

Sort of. The valves do not normally hit the pistons if the belt breaks, but the intake valves can hit the exhaust valves if the belt breaks.

* Step 1: Bolts 1 - 8 to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.) * Step 2: Bolts 1 - 8 to 88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.) * Step 3: Bolts 1 - 8 (again) to 88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.) * Step 4: Bolts 1 - 8 turn an additional 1/4 Turn. (Do not use a torque wrench for this step.)

To replace the fuel pump you need to empty the tank of as much fuel as possible (completely empty preferred but very difficult) If you can raise the vehicle it will be easier to use a siphon to drain. Once the tank is empty place a tranny jack or floor jack under the center of the tank. Remove the tank straps (2, each with 2 bolts) and the lower clamp from the fuel filler tube. Lower the tank a little (2 - 3 inches) to allow room to disconnect the fuel lines and vapor / vent lines. The vapor and vent lines are force fit and may not remove easily. In this case you need to make a judgment call to either cut the line just before a fitting and refit once done (if there is enough spare line to allow losing an inch or two of line) or cut a couple of inches away and splice back when done. With all lines removed finish lowering the tank. Use a strap or chain wrench to remove the retaining ring (6 inches in diameter so you will need a large wrench) I needed a cheater bar with my strap wrench as the factory over tightened the ring. Remove ring, fuel pump assembly, and o-ring. Inspect and replace as needed. This is also a perfect time to clean any dirt or other undesired artifacts from the tank. On reassembly - If splicing use a rigid line or pipe that just fits inside the line being spliced. Insert into one side and tighten the hose clamp for that side before beginning reassembly, you may well appreciate this later. For the larger vapor recovery line I have used the body of an old sharpie® marker, it fits well and is just rigid enough. If you cut the lines and are refitting then many of the lines will be eased by a little petroleum jelly on the fitting and soften the line by heating it. Never use flame or spark around a fuel tank, even empty tanks can have enough vapor to cause an explosion. I use a cup of water heated to boiling then insert the line into the cup of water for 15 - 30 seconds. Now push the line onto the fitting quickly as it will cool before you know it.

My 92 Voyager is doing this exact same thing. The problem with mine is the ignition switch...apparently a common problem with these vehicles. Currently trying to install a remote starter.

It doesn't, a 1996 Plymouth Voyager does not have a cabin filter.

Start your van. Slide your temp lever all the way to the left (full cold). Then turn the Mode Control to 'panel' (the one that sends air to your face only). Then turn the 'blower switch' to all the way to full. Now go to the leftmost three buttons. Press the top one (rear wiper on constant) and the bottom one (rear wiper washer fluid). Hold these two for a few seconds. Once the lights come on solid then begin to flash you can let go. You will feel the air blow out of all the different zones at different intervals and see lights come on and go off. Then after a minute or two the top button you pressed will be slowly flashing. Press the last flashing button and you are done.

There is a little spacer that the dealer sells that is glued to the end of the crank sensor before instillation. That is the gap setting.

Solnoid switch valve stuck in L/R position

It is on the passenger side strut tower

yes... It could also be the oil sending unit or the oil pressure switch.

ok on the pipe has two orings one goes into the water pimp in male side and one goes in flanged side but to replace flanged side you have to remove waterpump and housing and the male end will have it right there the female end you have to take off the upper and lower intake manifold and outlet pipe to reinstall

Open the glove box. There is a cord attached to either side of a small panel on the bottom of the glove box. The panel is secured by three screws. Take them and the panel off. The relays are in the panel underneath.

The 1999 Plymouth Voyager takes 28" wiper blades on both sides front and a 18" rear wiper. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

Jack, jack stand, flat screwdriver or prybar to remove hub cap, tire iron (or 3/4" socket & breaker bar to remove wheel,) ratchet & 13mm socket to remove caliper bolts, c-clamp to compress caliper piston, hand cleaner & shop towels for when you're done!

No , it IS NOT an interference engine (according to the Gates website , they make

timing belts etc.)

No because when you turn of the ignition it turns of as well. However I had a problem like that once and found that it is wise to have the AC of when you start the car. also it pays to check the battery conections whe you start runing short of power when constantly runing the AC.

Just did this on my 1998 Voyager, so should be the same. With the van on jacks or ramps, remove the plastic splash shield that is under the car (it covers the bottom pulleys). It's held with a couple of small bolts and a plastic button. You don't necessarily have to do this, but it helps to get the belt routed properly. Using an open end 15mm wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt, pull towrds the front of the van as if to tighten. This puts slack and you can slip the belt off the idler pulley. Let the tensioner back and you can then fish the old belt off everything else and pull it out. You will almost surely need to use a short cheater bar on the wrench to be able to pull against the tensioner. You can buy a tesnioner wrench for about $20 at the auto parts store and it may be worth it to you. After the old belt is off, route the new one in place over all the pulleys except the idler pulley. Using the wrench, pull the same as to loosen and then slip the belt on the idler. It will then be in place and you can check from top and bottom that it is on all the pulleys properly. Be sure it is in the grooves correctly on all pulletys and not off a groove or two. Replace the splash shield and you're done. I would recommend changing the tensioner while you are at it. It is tough to get to, but not as tough as it looks. Take off the belt and from underneath remove the nut on the back of the tensioner (it has a bolt running out from it's center that goes through the mounting hole). You can reach it with a 15mm socket and short extension, even though it looks impossible to get to. A lot of it will be by feel, since it is hard to see the nut while removing it. Pull the old tensioner out, put in new and slip on the new belt as above. It took me about an hour to swap the tensioner and belt.

i have a 97 with this problem. what your suppose to do is unlock the driver door with the key if that doesnt work try the passenger door. in my casee neither will fix the problem it will start but the theft system shuts off the fuel a second later and it wont start no matter what i do for at least 4 hours sems to be like clockwork it has recently started doing it every two days on the money ive tryed to disconnect the battery pulled every fuse/relay i could added motor and body grounds it has mysteriously worked after an attempt to call for a ride on a number of occasion's try calling for a ride mabye itll start :_)

5 quarts

5w30 or 10w30

Check the water pump. ---- Also check the radiator it sounds like it's plugged and there is now flow of coolant.--- ( circulation ) Check for a heater flow valve in the heater hose they can rust shut easily it is a valve in the heater hose that opens when you turn on the heat and shuts when its not in use, if not then probably the core is plugged a radiator flush might help.

Not sure which of "the" bolts you are referring to. But every one I can think of on a voyager is right hand thread.

fuel filter is above gas tank