Plymouth Voyager

Inside The Gas Tank. Best Let a Garrage Check This For You. It Can Be Tested By Using A Pressure That A Garrage Would Have. GOOD LUCK

Bad bulbs they are double filament or Bad stop light fuse or bad stop light switch

Go up and under the van and reach through the K frame and it will be right there, pop off the power steering lines and pull out two bolts and it will come out

The rear window on my '93 Voyager fell off over the period of a year or so. I couldn't get the thing back on but an auto glass shop repaired it for $55.00. Not bad.

A 1991 Chrysler Voyager can use ATF+3 or ATF +4.

I don't have an answer, but do have a similar problem, with my 1998 GC 3L. In my case, the pending codes seem to be a Cyl 2, Cyl3 and Mutli Random misfire. However, final code is usually Cyl 2 misfire. Mine always happens at 6mph and when the van is slowing down. I have tried the basis, compression, plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor button. Also replaced #2 injector. No change. We do not feel any missing. Van runs very smooth. I am beginning to think it is a computer/sensor problem. It is very strange to me that it ALWAYS happens at 6mph and slowing down. This is based on the frozen data.

Your 1986 Plymouth Voyager windshield wash your pump does have a fuse. The fuse can be found in the fuse box. The exact location of the fuse will be listed on the inside cover of the fuse box.

Open the hood and look for the white engine information sticker. It will tell you what size engine you have in liters.

I'm in the process of doing this right now. Lift the hood, and look behind the light assembly. You need to twist the round assembly counter clockwise. It is about 2" in diameter. The manual said to pull the electrical cord out first, but this is pretty much impossible. With the assembly out, you can then get the electrical piece pulled out (it is clipped on). With everything free new, pull out the bulb and replace it. My trouble is a ccan't get the bulb out, it is so tightly wedged in the socket!

Remove wheel if disc brakes: Remove caliper mounting bolts and slide caliper out of the way. If drum brakes: remove brake drum Remove brake line Hub assembly should be secured by 4 bolts You may have to separate backing plate from hub assembly, by supporting backing plate and striking hub assembly sharply w/hammer

I found my own answer on your web site. The answer is to press the "trip and reset" buttons at same time and then turn on the ignition switch to the run position and hold for 5 seconds and then press trip button.I also found fault codes I think.

Try eBay! Just search for "1992 Plymouth Voyager manual", and check the listings for one that includes the Infinity supplement. If the radio is an OE radio, then the information is listed in the owner's manual. Don't have one, get one. Contact your dealer or a salvage yard. If it is a non OE radio, contact Infinity. Mine (a 91) has a separate sound system manual.

For the 3.0 liter engine. Disconnect negative battery terminal. Locate starter at lower front of engine by engine fans. 2 bolts holding starter in, upper and lower. Remove lower bolt 3/4 way- easy to see, upper bolt go from top of engine to remove (need extensions). Completely remove lower bolt and remove positive battery connector and signal wire on top of starter. Install reverse of removal.

There is no fuse on this circuit I has a small generator on the gearbox that produces current. Check the leads fron the gearbox and see that they have not become disconnected Thank you for you information. I thought that was the case since all fuses looked good and tested good but thought maybe a relay was at fault. I did the simple attempt first to fix this problem and got lucky. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it a short time later. Everything is fine now. That info the dealer said about a computer having to be reprogrammed is simply not true with this car. All works fine.

The question is vague but if it means

Why is my "Check Gages" light on and my temperature gauge, speedometer and fuel gauge not working at all, nor does the instrument panel light? The door locks may not be working either. Or the Check Gages light, the gauges, instrument panel light, and door locks go on and off intermittently or act erratically? Other strange gremlin-like behavior with electronic systems (AC?) may occur as well. The other idiot lights are working fine, there is plenty of oil and the alternator is ok. Cause The Body Control Module (BCM) has crashed. This is more or less a computer that controls the instrument panel, door locks and other body electronic systems. Solution Reboot the BCM by disconnecting the battery (negative terminal recommended for safety). Background When I turned on my 1992 Plymouth Grand Voyager, the Check Gages light stayed on and the temperature gauge, speedometer and fuel gauge were dead. The light that illuminates these gauges was dead too. After researching various blogs I found that strange electric door lock behavior was associated with the gauge problem. I checked my door locks and sure enough, weird behavior - in my case they would unlock but not lock (no response or sound when pushing the lock switch down for locking). Carrying on with my search I came to this web page that actually had an answer (thank-you!) http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic427728.htm It described the gauge problem and the solution to disconnect the IOD fuse, which appears to act as a sort of master switch (actually it's there to be removed for long term storage to prevent battery drain). Two users reported removing the IOD fuse fixed their problems. It was described as located under the hood near the battery, but when I went to look for it I couldn't find a fuse labeled IOD. So did what I always do when a computer or other microchip-controlled device acts up - unplug it for couple of minutes. On a car that means disconnecting the battery. Disconnecting the negative terminal is preferred since there is no chance of welding a wrench between the positive post and the fender. It worked like a charm.

The water pump is located in the timing belt housing, good luck

The 1996 Plymouth Voyager wiper blade sizes are 28" wiper blades on both sides front and a 16" rear wiper. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

The 1999 monster 626 water pump is located on the front of the engine. You can follow the top radiator hose directly to the water pump.

Same place you check it. Remove the transmission dipstick, and place a funnel there and pore in the new fluids

The turn signal relay switch on a 98 Plymouth Grand Voyager Van should be on the steering column. Every vehicle will come with a manual that assists the driver in locating all of the different parts.

THIS WAS DONE ON A 98 Dodge Caravan 2.4L motor, similar to Plymouth Voyager (which I own also) tools: metric and standard wrenches and sockets 15mm, 1/2", 18mm I think... if you have a whole set, no problem (sorry I can't remember the sizes) **secure the front of the car on jack stands with the parking brake on** 1. disconnect the battery 2.remove the v-belt and power steering belt... loosen the alternator tensioner bolt and the pivot bolt (on bottom) ...use a ratchet to loosen the alternator enough to get the belt off. 3. Drain as much fluid as you can from the P/S reservoir.. (where you fill it) w/ a turkey baster or a spray bottle trigger (put the straw in and squirt into a bottle) 4. Disconnect the hoses from the pump...fluid can leak from the pump and hoses, so make sure you have a large pan or basin to catch excess fluid! (The nipple for the return line is built-in to the pump; remove the hose clamp & hose.) plug the lines/ holes in pump to keep the fluid from going everywhere. 5.There is a tensioner nut on the driver's side where you can't see it... you MUST loosen it, AND the bolt on the passenger side of the tensioner AND the bolt on the BOTTOM power steering pump bracket-DON'T remove the Bottom bolt-loosen it slightly. (go under the car for the bottom bolt) --the nut/bolts on the tensioner will allow it to slide; the bottom bolt being loose allows the pump to pivot LIKE the alternator. Remove the P/S belt. 6. Remove the 3 bolts holding the pump to the bracket. On this model, you can remove the pump from the top --be careful not to break the pulley!! ( I did when it slipped) The pulley is made from high-density plastic, not metal. Get a replacement pump -Ask for one WITH the reservoir- this is the housing that goes on the pump, NOT the reservoir for your fluid...otherwise, you'll have to almost rebuild your pump! Noone will tell you all this until it's too late! ( preferably from a parts store) compare the old and new pumps... make sure they are the same...just like a replacement pulley; unless you find one at a junkyard the pumps WON'T be identical! 7. Rent a jaw puller from the parts store, because the pumps don't come with the pulley... follow the instructions! -Install the pulley on the new pump- I did this by using a bolt and washer that you tighten down until the pulley goes on. make sure the pulley is flush on the outside. [[the original pumps will have a stud where you will need to place a bolt, and some washers-- ***if you don't use washers, your pump will be crooked and all the work you did will be for nothing!!*** -line up the pump by installing the bolts to the bracket and all the bolts except the one nut for the driver's side. Measure from the outside of the pump to the outside of the bracket... add 3/8" ... get washers for the space between the pump and bracket. the thread you'll need is the same as the other bolts that hold the pump in place. use a string to lower the washers into place while the bolt goes thru the bracket and washers into the pump. this all goes where you had to loosen the nut that you couldn't see earlier. (this is what a mechanic will have to do to get it in... the part where he charges you a ton of labor but doesn't say why, because it will take him all day to figure it out) 8. Make sure you install a new O-Ring on the pressure line, or it will leak (COMES W/ THE PUMP) install a filter on the return hose to catch any dirt still in the system. -fit the hoses and everything back together, opposite of removal. 9. replace the belts- tension -1/4" between 2 pulleys 12" or less - 1/2" play when the center of the pulleys is more like 15" when you put about 10 lbs pressure with your thumb. 10. fill the reservoir with P/S fluid 11. lower the car, connect the battery and start it up- work the steering back and forth almost all the way repeatedly, and MAKE SURE THE RESERVOIR DOES NOT GET EMPTY..OR YOUR PUMP WILL BURN OUT! this will work the air out of the system, when the pump stops sucking in fluid make sure it is at the right level. I suggest you get a Haynes manual- # 30011 It will tell you most of this, especially some specifications but really what I put is what will happen. it can also help you by showing diagrams of other motors..ie:3.0L, 3.3L, etc. on other motors, you may have to take the pump out from under the car. Sorry I could not put all the details, I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this will help anyone! good luck! -Scoot Deezel

Try unlocking all doors with the key. There should be switches on the backs of the key cylinders on the front doors and liftgate.

It is on the back side of the under dash fuse panel.