Plymouth Voyager

I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde LXi with the 3.2 Liter engine (I think the same one you may have in your vehicle). About one month ago, my wife had to make a 200 mile trip to see her sister. Day of return, the phone rings. Car's running hot, just below the high mark. She took it to a local garage; diagnosis: One of severl things 1) Cracked block... 2) Blown head gasket... 3) Bad water pump. Rented a dolly and pulled it home. My local mechanic thought it was a bad water pump. Cleared him for the work. This requires a very knowlegable shop, a near complete engine tear-down, removal of just about all of the engine accessories and a machine shop (to true the heads and check out the valve train). They removed .004" off the heads to assure a flat fit. While in there, he did discover a bad water pump, however, there was a 3/8" wide opening in one of the gaskets. Seems Chrysler installed a faulty gasket in there when the engine was built in '98. Luckily, there was not further engine damage, due in large part to my wife's very intelligent actions. Oil was changed out and there was no further problems and running oil pressure is at specs. I had the timing belt, spark plugs and a couple of other things done while it was torn down also. The vehicle has 110,000 miles on it, mostly expressway. I recommend you DO NOT do this yourself. The job costed me $1,900.00 and I was lucky to have a freind in the business. Larry W.

Had the same problem, try changing the plug wires, it worked for mine

The front wheel need to be off the ground.

Where is the radiator fan relay at on a 2000 Plymouth voyager

Remove the dash panel that contains the emergency brake release handle. Behind this panel you will find a metal plate held in place with 4 screws. Remove this plate. The combination "turn signal & flasher" module is yellow and is located to the extreme left side of the assembly that holds the "plug-in" type devices.

Plymouth does not use inertia/reset switches

Idle is computer controlled and is not adjustable.

The starter is located near the transmission on the drivers side of the 1992 Plymouth Voyager. The starter is responsible for turning the engine over.

Every vehicle gets hot to the touch, it doesnt mean that your over heating or anything... a Plymouth Voyager gets 195 Degrees. the heat is actually better for the invironment then when the engine is cold because the heat helps burn all gases and keeps it from the air.

there are 2 lifters for every cylinder, one for intake valve and one for exhaust valve.

28", I just replaced mine

The body computer is the flasher. It is on the back side of the under dash fuse box

Just finished replacing the radiator on a '96 Voyager Rallye in 5 hours, start to finish, and I'm not a mechanic (had to borrow the tools!). The grill/"bumper" comes off in one piece, then just pay attention to the order of what comes off next. I lost maybe a half hour having to undo/redo little things on reassembly.

Good luck.

2.4L and 3.0L have a belt. 3.3L and 3.8L have a chain.

My '96 Voyager, w/ 2.4L & 3 speed hydraulic tranny wouldn't go in reverse. I replaced with a rebuilt tranny. I took the old one apart recently to save the internals & do a forensics exam (discarding case since top mount broke in an accident years ago). I found that the rear piston had a torn rubber ring. That likely caused the problem since the rear band controls 1st & reverse. It could have torn from a burr on a side hole, but the rubber looks too soft. I suspect the rubber ring was damaged by adding "stop leak", which I recall I tried since the front seal had been leaking. It didn't fix the leak and I think they work by swelling rubber parts. I will never use it again. I probably caused the front seal leak by beating the crankshaft pulley with a sledgehammer (long story - inadvertently swaged crank to pulley during a timing belt change). I think you can remove the rear piston with the tranny in the vehicle. I didn't pay real close attention, but I think you would have to remove the valve body. Re-installing is trickier than old RWD Torqueflites, as I recall you have to reach above the valve body and pull a spring lever back on the shift detent cam, requiring 3 hands. Anyway, with the piston exposed (after removing band lever), you need to remove a large circlip. I was able to so using needle-nose pliers. You have to wiggle the clip around the piston cover while compressed and it kept popping off my pliers. The proper tool would make it easy. I haven't checked how to get a replacement rubber ring or piston assembly.

2 bolts near the top of the fan assembly. However these do not fail often. More often the fan control module (or some call it the Relay, but it is solid state) fail. It is very common in this series of vehicles.

The 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager takes a fairly standard 18" rear wiper blade (also takes 28" replacement windshield wipers on both sides front).

Additionally, the installation process is simple. The replacement wiper blades will come with step-by-step, illustrated removal and installation instructions.

# Disconnect negative cable from battery. # Raise vehicle on a hoist.Remove inner fender shield. # Remove accessory drive belts. # Drain cooling system. # Support engine from the bottom and remove right engine mount. # Remove right engine mount bracket. # Remove timing belt. # Remove timing belt idler pulley. # Remove both cam sprockets. # Remove rear timing belt cover. # Remove water pump attaching screws to engine == # Install new O-ring gasket in water pump body O-ring groove # Assemble pump body to block and tighten screws to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) Pressurize cooling system to 15 psi with pressure tester and check water pump shaft seal and O-ring for leaks. # Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of movement. # Install rear timing belt cover. # Install camshaft sprockets and torque bolts to 101 N·m (75 ft. lbs.) # Install timing belt idler pulley and torque mounting bolt to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.) # Install timing belt. # Install right engine mount bracket and engine mount. # Fill cooling system. # Install accessory drive belts. # Lower vehicle and connect battery cable.

It measures the speed of the output gear of the transmission. It is used for shift timing.

When changing anything electrical it is important to have gloves and a diagram. The wiring diagram for a stereo in a 2001 Chrysler Voyager can be found in the maintenance manual.

There is no adjustment. If it does not provide the correct tension it needs to be replaced. It is cheap and easy to do yourself from underneath.

My 1995 Plymouth Voyager, at 150,000 miles, developed thedreaded "Fuel Pump Problem" - occasionally, it wouldn't start. Looking on the web for advice, I found "ifyou pound on the tank, and it starts, it's probably the fuel pump." I pounded, and it started - for a while. One evening, at a friend's house, it wouldn'tstart, even after vigorous pounding. Igot a ride home, then started calling around to see how much towing it homewould be. Finally, I went over to thefriend's house, and I was talking to a place about coming to get it, when Ithought "Maybe I should give it one more try." It started, I drove it home, and I put it in my driveway. I had another car available.

I knew that the tank had to be removed to replace the pump,and I wasn't looking forward to that - one bit. I hate crawling around under cars. But, I figured having the pump replaced would be so expensive that Ishould give it a try. I ordered a fuelpump from Ebay ($100), and I got a Chilton repair manual, which includedinstructions on removing the fuel tank. I scoured the web for tips on doing the job, and the number one problemarea seemed to be supporting the tank while getting it out. Of course, I siphoned the fuel out (using thelittle tube provided for that on the back of the tank). I didn't lose very much.

Finally, the big day came. I already knew that you're supposed to "release the fuel pressure"before undoing the fuel lines. Therepair manual had instructions for this, which involved hooking up the batteryto some leads in some alternate manner. Unfortunately, the battery was dead (the car had been sitting for awhile). I tried charging it, but itdidn't seem to charge. So, I decided Iprobably needed a new battery. I calledaround, and the cheapest available was a Sears 'Easy-Start', for $42.99 (Ifound out later that Napa Auto Parts had one for $30.99. Darn!). After getting the battery, I decided that, since the car had beensitting, the fuel pressure was probably 'released' already, so I didn't botherwith the instructions. Oh, well, Ineeded the battery anyway. Sears tested myold one and said it was bad - I suppose just from sitting.

Finally, I crawled under the van to undo the tank. The first thing was to remove the fuel lines. I tugged at them, but they wouldn'tbudge. There were no hose clamps, so Isuspected something else was holding them on - but what? The manual simply says "Remove the fuellines." Back to the web for moreadvice. Fortunately, I found an articlewhich talked about replacing a leaking fuel pressure line on this type ofvehicle, and it described pushing in the black plastic ring on the connection torelease it. The manual should havementioned that. A little fuel came outof the pressure line, but it wasn't too bad. Don't try removing the fuel tank in an enclosed space, however.

Once that hurdle was crossed, I started trying to undo thetank strap bolts. I assumed, since it'san American car, that they would be 9/16" or 5/8". Wrong! They're 15mm. So, I had to findmy metric socket set. That took awhile. Then I started undoing the bolts,and they didn't want to turn. I thought"Must be rust!" I put some kerosene onthem, but that didn't help. Checking on the web for advice, I saw mention of PB Blaster, supposedly the best thing forfreeing tight bolts. Finding a placethat had it (Napa Auto Parts) took a while, and by the time I got back with it,sprayed it on, and waited for it to work, there was another couple of hoursshot. Turns out, it didn't do anygood. Apparently the nuts are thelocking type.

So, with the fuel tank supported by a jack, I undid thestraps. The bolts are rather long, soit's ratchet, ratchet, ratchet. While Iwas ratcheting, I was wondering how I was going to get the tank off of thejack, since it would still be several inches off the driveway with the jackfully lowered, but it turned out that was not a problem - the empty tank is notheavy at all. What did turn out to be aproblem - a very annoying problem - was getting the tank off the fillerpipe. Trying to hold up the tank withone foot while wiggling it, and wiggling the filler pipe, and seeing almostzero movement, and then gradually realizing that the filler pipe sticks intothe tank about 4 inches, was not fun. Ihad to jack up the other side of the car so the tank could clear the muffler asit came off the filler pipe. Plus,thestraps always seemed to be in the way. Incidentally, before youstart to remove the tank, you have to remove the screws that hold thefiller pipe to the body, where the filler cap is.

Another problem in removing the tank was the 'vaporseparator rollover pipe' which goes from the top of the tank to the fillerpipe. It had one of those 'one-use'crimped hose clamps. I tried getting inthere with wire cutters to cut the crimp, but getting my hand around and overthe tank and putting any pressure on the wire cutters was impossible. I finally used a hacksaw blade to saw throughthe crimp. Even then, getting the rubberhose off of the plastic tube was very difficult, because of the crampedconditions. Plus, be aware that the tankflange has razor-sharp edges on it (also inside the tank, after you get the pump out!) . I'mlucky that the scrapes and cuts I got doing this will only take a few days toheal.

I would like to take this opportunity to suggest that thebean-counters who were responsible for this whole situation should be lined upagainst a wall and machine-gunned. Yes,the tank is a great place for the pump, that is, until you have to replace thepump. The car is undoubtedly lessexpensive to build with this design, plus I'm sure repair shops just love it!

Once the tank was finally off, it was time to remove thefuel pump from it. The repair manual didnot mention that there is a special locking ring holding the pump, the kindwith four little tabs sticking up about 1/8" inch. Somewhere on the web I noticed a reference toremoving the ring by tapping it with a screwdriver and hammer. I tried this, but I could see it wasn't goingto budge. I didn't want to try beatingit hard enough to get it loose, because I was afraid of damaging the tank. So, I went into my machine shop and made aspecial wrench (out of 1/8" aluminum plate) to remove it (and reinstallit). This took a couple of tries, butthe second version worked great. Basically, it's got sort of a 'Y' shape, to go around the pipes andprovide a handle, and two 6-32 nuts (held by short screws) which bear on two ofthe tabs.

One thing that was mentioned in a couple of references tothis procedure was cleaning the inside of the tank. They made it sound like the bottom of thetank was going to be covered with gunk, and I was wondering exactly how I wasgoing to clean it. However, When I gotthe pump out, and looked inside the tank, it looked beautiful. A bit of clean gasoline floating around on a clean metal surface. There were a couple of pieces ofunidentifiable crud on the bottom of the tank, which I removed.

<o:p></o:p>To make a long story shorter, I installed the new pump, gotthe tank reinstalled (easier than removing it, but still a pain), poured aboutthree gallons of gas in the tank, and tried starting it. It wouldn't start, after numerous tries, andI was really bummed out! I didn't want towork on it any more, and I was trying to think of what to do. I did look at the manual's description offuel pressure testing, and I noticed something about having such-and-suchamount of fuel in the tank during some particular test. I had about three more gallons of gasavailable, so I poured that in. It startedright up. Was that 'priming the pump'?

Sure you can but I would highly recommend against it if you want this engine to last. That is not the correct weight oil for your Plymouth. You should use SAE 5w30 weight. Your Plymouth will get very little lubrication at startup using this heavy oil. This will cause premature engine wear and hard starting in cold temperatures. You are not driving a race car you are driving a van.

A 1993 Plymouth Voyager does not have a cabin filter.