Saab

5w-40 fully synthetic

GM sold Saab to Spyker Cars N.V. in 2010.

It's built on to the oil cap

Most cars won't even run is the converter is clogged. Clogged converters can get very hot, maybe even start fires.

If when you start the Saab the "Check gearbox" comes on on the dashboard just leave the car running for about 2 minutes before you drive just revving the engine. This happens as the engine has got moisture inside it or is in a wet or damp or cold environment... have you got an automatic?

Saab 900 transmissions can be expensive to repair. The entire driveline (engine and gearbox) must come out to make most internal repairs, and the replacement parts are not cheap. 1500 $US sounds about right for the labor involved (depends on the hourly rate). However, sometimes an errant reverse problem may be repaired with the gearbox in the car. A good Saab mechanic will know how to do that. Do NOT take a Saab transmission repair to an all-encompassing repair shop as they will likely not have the tools nor the expertise to do the repair correctly and it will end up costing even more in the long run. - - - - - Being a Saab and being an 89, parts to fix it may be outrageous in price..... It's a good chance that may be a fair price. Other options would be try to find a decent used transmission. You can google "Used transmission, 1989 Saab 900" or search salvage yards. You may or may not find a transmission, but you never know til you try.

Wink says: You don't specify a year. The procedures are different depending on the year. A good shop manual will provide the best information.

In brief, here is what you do on 1979-87 900s: 1) Jack up front end, set car on jack stands and remove wheel. 2) Remove the parking brake cable from the lever, remove the protective boot, and remove the circlip holding the cable to the yoke. Pull the cable out of the yoke and tie it to the spring. 3) Remove the brake pads.

4) Disconnect the brake fluid hose. Unless you want brake fluid all over your work area, find a way to plug the end. 5) The bolts are on the back side of the caliper, held in place with a locking plate. Knock the tabs from the locking plate back with a screwdriver. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the upright. 6) If the rotors are scored, they need to be replaced as well, along with new brake pads.

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Carlblum says: I have NEVER read a manual or asked anyone how to replace the brakes on any vehcile in the over 20 years of working on vehicles. If you have to get your brakes worked on, and you have no knowledge of vehicle brakes, have someone you know, who knows HOW TO DO IT RIGHT, show you. or Take it to a shop. The most prominent weapon in use in America today is the Automobile. Playing with it, is like playing with a loaded 357 magnum with the hammer cocked.

Underneath the front passenger seat.

SAAB is a Swedish car which of course means that it is also a Scandavian car.

Lack of anti-freeze in sub-freezing temperatures. The water in the block freezes and expands.

You have to take out the car's battery to reboot the car's computer.

From SaabScene, Posted by khaydock (me!)

I got my 56 plate (Dec 2006 registered) Saab 93 serviced at a non franchised service garage, I asked them to reset the "TIME FOR SERVICE" indicator but they didn't have a clue? I searched high and low on the internet but to no avail. I was considering paying some guy on Ebay about £8 for the info.

Anyway, as I am an Engineer by trade I thought why not try the tried and trusted last ditch method of R.T.F.M. (Read The Flipping Manual!)

Guess what? The answer is in there!!!

1. You have to insert the key and turn it to the ignition position but without starting the engine.

2. Then push the footbrake, keeping it pushed the whole time throughout this procedure.... (cars with diesel engine only)

3. Then select "SETTINGS" on the steering wheel controls.

4. Then press and hold the "SET" button until given audible confirmation.

5. Select "TIME FOR SERVICE".

6. When asked "RESET SERVICE CHECK?" Select YES (You can undo using the CLR Button)

7. Release the brake pedal (cars with diesel engine only).

Follow these instructions carefully and that should get rid of the dreaded "TIME FOR SERVICE" indicator!! WHOOPEE!!!

You will also find the above procedure gives you other options for other features such as turning off the Automatic switching off of the Climate control system, I turned mine off as it gets a real pain when it turns on the fan at ultra high speed when I get in the car sometimes and it decides the temperature needs adjusting up / down. Now I have control of the darned thing and can set off in peace and quiet!

Happy Motoring.

Whether in a Saab or any car, the CHECK ENGINE light is an indication that something has gone out of spec. It is most often something in the emisisons system. A code is stored in the car's on-board computer and needs to be read with a diagnostic computer. Once the problem has been diagnosed, the technician can proceed with repair. Saab generally uses a proprietary computer system, so only Saab dealers have the proper diagnostic computer. Some independent Saab shops have purchased used computers from Saab dealers and may be able to help. == == the check engine light will come on as a function of mileage since the last time it was reset. I don't remember >exactly< how to reset it so it doesn't come on each time you start the engine, but I do remember it has to do with using the "clear" button on the SID. I think you hold the clear button down, and after 4 or 8 seconds it will change it's mode and display...but keep holding it down and a few seconds later it will actually clear and reset the 'check engine' light. Sorry I don't remember what mode the SID display should be in to start the clearing process. (I just bought a 1996 SAAB 900 convertible a few months ago...had the check engine light start coming on, did some web searches and came up with this solution...which I partially remember. :{)

The car must be on for 1 hour. After 1 hour, the words, "code in" will appear. Enter your 4 digit code.

The average price for a used 2003 SAAB is $7,832. A new 2003 SAAB averages $25,900. The difference here is $18,068. This is a big difference. I think you would better off buying a used SAAB and putting in another engine.

288 examples were produced. Four were equiped with automatic transmissions, the rest were manuals. VIN numbers were not sequential, nor were the cars numbered making it difficult to authenticate one. They are easily cloned. If the "Springtime in Sweden" badge, located on the lower left of the glovebox door, is still present that helps. Worth: depends on the condition more than accumulated miles. A sound car with good to excellent cosmetics should fetch $4,000 to $8,000. A fully restored and upgraded example like the SiS I own can reach into the $20,000 range. Mine was appraised by the company that insures it at $27,500. Though not viewed as true collectables yet, "Classic 900's are gaining a following at an above average pace, and I'm sure anyone owning an original SiS will see their car reach that level as the stylistic design and unique mechanicals acquire the recognition they deserve.

The first step is to take out the headlight for easier access. Then you have to take off the very bottom most plastic under bumpuer peice. From their you take out the two bolts located on the top of the light and then there is one under the light. Then you take the screw out of the round peice on the light where you will find the light bulp that just snaps in and out.

Buying a used Saab is definitely a good idea. According to many studies, Saabs hold up really well and last for a lot of miles. They are great, durable cars.

i have a 9-3 turbo and it has 128000 miles o it and it is still running fine. i think they are very reliable vehicles.

Saab is supposed to be a reliable car

The resistor pack is located behind the glove compartment within the cabin of the Saab. (older Saabs may have had the resistors in the engine compartment behind the false firewall.) Access involves removing the glove compartment, and then the kick panel under below the blower. There are two types of resistor packs...one appears to be for Saabs with the ACC, automatic climate control, and that pack is screwed to the bottom of the blower motor. The other resistor pack appears to be for Saabs with manual heat/cooling controls ... ( non-ACC system) and it has a number of "fingers" (cooling fins), and is located somewhat behind the cabin blower motor. Held in with a clip, it comes down after removing the electrical connections (three).

If one is looking for a car that is similar to the Saab 95 Aero, one could look at other Saab vehicles. The Saab 9-3 is a similar model, as are vehicles in the Saturn L-series.

release on SAAB 900 S convertible

"The CEO for SAAB is not located in the UK, but rather, in Sweden. SAAB UK's managing director is Charles Toosey, who took the position from Jonathan Nash."

Its in the airbox. To get to it you need to remove the glove box (4 or 6 torx screws) and its basically in the airbox. There are about 8 screws on the side holding a cover down before you can get to the actual filter