Subaru Outback

The 2002 Subaru Outback has a flat 4 engine.

The ground clearance of the 2003 Subaru Outback is 0 ft. 7.3 in. (7.3 in.).

1987-93 = 85 ft lbs 1994-05 =100 ft lbs 2006 =140 ft lbs

wiring diagrams should be available at your local library... ...everyone should have a manual for their vehicle(parts store or dealer), and a local library should have professional shop manuals available in the REFERENCE section for free...make copies of the appropriate sections...read up and good luck :)

The U5 engine option code means California emissions

There is a Haynes Repair Manual for this car, the book has wiring diagrams and repair and rebuild instructions for Subaru Legacy and Legacy Outback and Brighton from 1990 to 1998. The ISBN for this book is 1563923262 i picked mine up for US$15 several in 2003.

The book is still in-print and you can routinely find it on eBay.com\half.com for under US$10 shipped. There are people seeling it for over $25 buck online but the book retails at pepboys an advance auto for about US$17(2007/12).

Best Of Luck the 2.2L Subaru Boxer is a solid engine.

Steering rack worn? Power steering pump going bad? Worn steering or suspension components? Frozen steering shaft?

15.9 gallon, according to http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive98-99.html

to remove the clock you have to remove the whole air vent and console compartment, there are 3 clips at the top holding it in, i just pryed from both bottom corners to get the bottom out and wiggled and the top followed. Then there are various screws holing the clock in from behind.

Damaged or faulty oxygen sensor or circuit; Plugged or damaged pcv valve; Leaking fuel filter or fuel filter connections; Clogged, damaged, defective or faulty catalytic converter; Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector; Punctured or damaged fuel tank; faulty fuel pump or fuel pump connections; Damaged or restricted exhaust system components.

It's a pretty common problem with the fuel line clamps. You notice it when you are ideling since the air is not moving past the engine, and you are smelling it at the worst - when you drive it dissipates, but it still occurring. You need to tighten the fuel line clasps - you can see photos of most of the places here:

http://www.bazoomer.com/fuelline/fuelline.html

Another possibility is the seal between the fuel pump and the gas tank. If you lift up the back seat and pull back the padding, you will see the access panels for the fuel tank. Remove the sheet metal panels and look at the assemblies on top of the gas tank. If the seals or lines are leaking the smell will be pretty strong in that area. Replacing the seals and/or the flexible fuel lines should solve the problem.

In front of the Engine, under the Belt Covers.....

H-4 engine: 1 - 3 - 2 - 4; H-6 engine: 1 - 6 - 3 - 2 - 5 - 4

29ft lbs

H4 2.5 liter engine: 4.0 liters (4.2 us qt); H6 3.0 liter engine: 5.7 liters (6 us qt).

Sure, disconnect the drive shaft to the wheels that you want to disable. Is it recommended or safe, no, but you could do it. Once you pull the drive shafe, you may get a warning light, could damage systems in the car, could affect the warranty.

www.parkers.co.uk

Try the toggle switch on the top of the steering column

You may have a blown head gasket.. Check the coolant overflow for oily, black residue.

all the washer fluid comes from the same tank

Do you have excessively worn brake linings?

Thanks for the suggestion! I considered it but thought the brake linings would only squeal when braking? What I'm experiencing happens while I'm on the gas. Please let me know if I am mistaken. Thanks!

There is a web loop on the passenger side seat cushion in the gap between the seat and back cushions, just pull the loop and the seat bottom releases forward. Use a ratchet to unbolt exposed anchors. That removes the whole seat back. At that point, swing the seat back to one side and use a screwdriver to unlatch the seat back from the broken seat release. Remove the seat back. At this point you have a 2 passenger car. That's how I roll.

Perhaps a dealer can fix the latch mechanism inside the seat.

Turbo models: 7.6 us qt (7.2 liters); Non-turbo: 6.7 us qt (6.3 liters).....

there is a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission. I believe that it takes a 19 or 21 mm. socket. It is the only drain pllug there. you then refill it through the dipstick hole on the passenger side of the car.

Makes a great deal of difference whether the transmission is automatic or manual. My advice applies only to an automatic transmission.

Depends on how much of the fluid you wish to change. There is a drain plug on the left side of the transmission that lets about 4 quarts out. Put the plug back in and refill to get the correct level on the dipstick with fresh Dexron III, just like changing engine oil. Do it once a year every year and you prevent most transmission problems. If you are not experienced at changing engine oil you should have experienced help when you do this or leave it to a professional.