Suzuki

You will find all diagrams for every part of the Suzuki DR 500 models on:

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr500-1984-se_model13207/partslist/

You need to specify how its been restricted. Normally its inserts in the air intake of the carburettor which restricts the airflow or it could be inserts in the exhaust manifold to slow down the exhaust gasses being emitted. the simple answer is to remove them or have them removed

remove the right side engine cover

10w40 motorcycle oil, because of the wet clutch.

The best answer is to ask your local Toyota dealer. The alternative answer would be to screw the cap off your tank in the engine bay that says brake fluid. The fluid on the stick should be a clear light brown. When you touch it the fluid should not be slippery, greasy, or discolored. If there is any sediment in there then change it right away and make sure to clean out the fluid reservoir. Also change your brake fluid every two years and flush out the brake lines for superior maintenance.

this is a little long to be answering it here and i can email the tech stuff faster so email me at danbonacum@gmail.com and I'll send it to you.

16.5 ft lbs.

Suzuki Oil drain bolt

The computer has detected a problem with the emissions system. If you are talking about a mid-late 80s Suzuki Samurai the answer could be much simpler, just an automatic 'engine light' warning based on mileage. The Samurai's would turn on the check engine light every 50000 or 60000 miles. There was a simple two position slide switch under the dash to reset it. When the engine light would come on, I would remove the lower dash panel, feel down around the right side of the steering column, find the switch, and move it to the 'other' position. Voila, engine light would stay off for another 50-60k miles, and then I'd repeat the reset procedure again. I THINK the reason it was setup like this was that was the routine maintenance time for either the EGR or PCV valves. In any case, that worked on 1986 through 1988 Samurai's, and maybe more. always close gaz cap properly...and tigh... on many cars, it is enough... r.p montreal. The engine light will come on if your Air Filter is dirty or plugged. Replace your air filter, then disconnect the negative terminal on your battery. Wait a minute, then reconnect the negative cable. You need to remove the negative cable just to cause the computer to reset and clear the error. Kind of like the 3 finger salute for Windows (Ctrl-Alt-Del).

you need to buy 3 - 1L bottles (i always find the 4L jug is cheaper) its technically 2.4L i believe... but just add 2 1/2 bottles then check it and adjust from there. Dont forget to ONLY use 4 stroke motor oil... i use semi synthetic and feel its worth the little extra

What year bike? I use 87 in mine and I've looked into it like you are and everywhere I checked said 87 is the grade to go with.

I just fixed the same problem on my 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara XL-7. The rear door latch handle assembly just needed to be well lubricated. Over time and use the handle kept creeping up, to the point where the tension spring would not push it back down. So it eventually got stuck in the up position to the point where I could no longer open the rear hatch door. I just took some good quality lubricant, such as WD-40 or a teflon spray (made by the same company that makes PB Blaster, sold at most Auto Parts stores or Wal-Mart) and syrayed it up into the door latch handle opening on both sides of the hinged handle. You have to get down on the ground and look up under the black plastic shroud that covers the handle. Work the handle up and down until you are eventually able to get it to go back down by itself. It may take several sprays to get it lubed up sufficiently. Also while you're at it spray some lubricant or liquid graphite into all of your keyed door lock assemblies. Over time these will also seize up on you, from lack of use. Because everybody, inluding myself, uses their keyless entry most of the time.

dipstick or ther could be a litte oil window on rt side of the bike or there is a little screw on the right by the foot peg remove it oil cap and plug drain all the oil put the drain in start fillng when it starts trickling out by the foot peg its full put screw in and your done

There are two on my 98 marauder. One is directly under the gas tank, the other is under the seat at the back end of the rear engine cyinder. You have to remove the gas tank to get to the front one. Take the side covers off and the battery out to get to the other. If you search online, you can find a vz800 repair manual with details.

In order to meet epa gas mileage requirements manufacturers have bikes running lean & hot. Also there is a valve that feeds some fuel back into the exhaust. Hence your bike backfires on deceleration and sometimes when starting and who knows when else. Without going into a political rant, here's what you can do.

There are kits you can purchase to disable the valve, combined with the addition of a fuel injection controller to richen the fuel air mixture - backfiring will disappear like magic. Check into it.

Sunrise Graphics in St. Annes nr Blackpool, do a full range of complete graphics for the GS range. Well priced and very helpful.

I have heard that you can swap the c90 differential into the C50. They say it helps lower the RPM at highway speeds.

I am sure however that you would loose some low end torque if you do this. But it would help with fuel mileage on long trips.

I'd use 10w-30 year round most of the time, sometimes 10w-40 in the summer (100+ not unusual where I live) months.

Tried either 5w20 or 5w30 on one of my Samurai's one winter (winter temps around freezing but I'd also go winter camping down to around 0F)...bad idea, I got to replace the rod and main bearings shortly thereafter. I put 250K miles on mine, my kid got 180K out of his...so we got real good at pulling engines and transmissions, doing backyard rebuilds, etc.

If you are in a really hot area of the country, you might want to bump it up to 10w-40 in the summer months, otherwise any relatively name brand 10w-30 should be fine. Do NOT drop down to 5w-20! (Yes, this is the voice of experience talking!)

Left side of motorcycle under the fake tank skin.

Its either the dogs or the shift forks

Php 92,000.00

If the bike is stock then you have to drill out two soft plugs to access the screws. Go to www.migcruisers.com (the Marauder and Intruder group) They have detailed instructions with pictures under their how to section and a world of advice on these bikes. Also try www.spacerjim.com he's a member of the group and makes parts and knows these bikes backwards and forewards. If you need any more help my name is smokin54 on the migcruisers site.

Its on the drivers side of the motor behind the exhaust manifold. Take the manifold cover off and you will be able to see it between the 3rd and 4th exhaust pipes on the side of the motor.

It kind of Depends on your Weight, But id say around 48 mph.

The correct pressure is indicated on a plaque on the inside of the doorpost at the driver's seat.

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