Toyota Tercel

By banging things.

Go to a book store and buy either a CHILTON or a HAYNES manual/repair book for your car's year, make, and model. AUTO ZONE HAS THEM.

These give you step by step illustrated instructions on 100's of repair procedures, ON YOUR CAR. It shows you in the proper order, with pictures, how to take it apart, and how to put it back together, properly.

Most of these books are about $15.00 USD, and are worth every penny.

The only problem here is they do not make an at home repair guide for any Toyota Tercel after 1994. Here is the kicker, every thing about the Tercel changed in 95 so finding info on the Tercel from later years is almost imposible unless you buy a shop owners manual for all Toyota compack models for like $250.

You're going to want to invest in a Hayne's or Chilton manual for your car. If you're talking about the clutch release bearing, you're in for about 5 hours of labor (if you're as skilled as a shop mechanic). You have to remove the entire transaxle just to get to it. I had to replace mine, along with the clutch assembly, about a month ago, and it took me about 2 days. It's not fun. By the way, while you have all that stuff out, it is highly recommended that you go ahead and change the clutch assembly. The hardest part is getting the transaxle out, trust me. It's cake from there.

I have done a few of these and if you have never done one you dont want to start now. They are a real pain to do. SORRY, Ray

Sorry doesn't cut it when looking for an answer, Ray. I'm helping a friend out and glossed over his generic Chilton's manual. Taking the water pump bolts out directly is the hardest part. It is apparant that the housing shell connected to the motor mount is covering the top two bolts of the water pump. The manual shows that removing the alternator bracket to remove the water pump assembly (read: water pump PLUS its angled housing shell that its connected to) can be removed with three simple long bolts inverse to the water pump. Plan on 3-4 hours labor for us unskilled home mechanics. I with this answer. Sincerely, Craig

There will generally be 2 notches on the lower vertical lip of the rocker panel directly behind the front wheels (under the front door) and directly in front of the rear wheels. Hope this helps.

If your vehicle is 1995 or later, you must use an OBDII scanner to retrieve the trouble codes. Fortunately, there are auto parts stores that will scan free of charge. If your vehicle is pre-1995, you can try your local public library to see if there is a repair manual (Haynes or Chilton) for your vehicle available for checkout. In the manual you will find full instructions on how to retrieve the codes without a scanner and what each code means.

It's on the brake pedal just above the viewable area.

Look at the bottom end of the engine

Tires out of balance, worn t-rods, Bad u- joints, Belt broke in tire.

Have a mechanic take it for a drive and get their opinion.

25'

When an engine is cold the carburater or throttle body (whichever you have) is adjusted to raise the idle speed slightly. Once it warms up the engine is suposed to idle a little slower. If you're having trouble maintaining the engine idle speed, you may need to find the source of the problem. It could be as simple as a worn throttle body, partially plugged air filter, low fuel pressure, or a poorly adjusted idle speed screw, depending on what your vehicle uses. Unfortunately, it could also be more complicated, such as poor compression, stretched timing belt or a weak or mis-timed ignition system. Start with the simple stuff. Get it warm then let it idle briefly without the air cleaner. That will tell you if your filter is plugged or you have some other obstruction in the air supply. BTW, don't let the engine run without an air cleaner if the air has dust or other particles floating around, in other words, don't run without an air cleaner if you're in a dust storm. After you've checked the air supply, you could check the fuel pressure. If that's not it, run a compression test.

Apparently 1000 in BC

1.5 liters, so around 1.6 US quarts.

It could be any of the following:

* A sticking or burned valve, * A damaged head gasket * A damaged or worn piston If it's a damaged or worn piston there should be quite a bit of "blowby", meaning that there will be pressure inside the crankcase when the engine is running.

If the head gasket is damaged there should be a leak into the crankcase (blowby again, or a leak into the water jacket, in which case you won't be able to keep coolant in the radiator.

If it's a sticking valve or just about anything else that causes poor compression, you can perform a "leak-down" test to find out where the compression is leaking. Since you know it's the #5 cylinder, perform the leak down test on that cylinder and see where it's leaking... then you'll know.

Most likely the cause is a bad connection in that particular electrical circuit. There is a lot of time involved in trying to find exactly where that bad connection would be. Not worth fixing, in my opinion.

Disconnect the battery. Loosen the ac bracket bolts. Slide the compressor to allow the belt to come off (if there are other belts in the way then they will have to be removed first.) Replace the belt. Slide the compressor snug but not too tight then tighten the bolts and re-connect the battery.

It's easy to change the fuel pump by removing the back seat. Pull sharply on the bottom of both sides of the back seat backrest.

You'll have to remove the mat and under the mat you'll find a black cover secured by screws. Remove the black cover carefully.

The pump is right there. Remove it carefully because the fuel gauge sending unit may bend and you'll get false fuel quantity readings.

it says on the tire... "__ max p.s.i."

should be 35 if you have regular sized tires.

The 1999 Toyota Tercel timing marks can be found on the main pulley. The timing marks will be scattered around the outside of the main pulley.

11

1999 Volkswagen Beetle Stereo Wiring

Constant 12V+ Red/White

Switched 12V+ yellow/Red

Ground Brown

Illumination Gray/Blue

Dimmer bgcolor

Antenna Trigger Red/White

Antenna n/a

Rear Roof, Amplified na

Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors:

Left Front (+) | Blue/White Left Front Brown/White Right Front Red Right Front (-) Brown/Red

Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Sides

Left Rear (+) Red/Green Left Rear (-) Brown/Green

Right Rear (+) Light Blue Right Rear (-) Brown/Light Blue

I changed the valve cover gasket which included the gasket, gromets, and the spark plug tube seals for $13.99 at advance auto parts. It was leaking 1 qt a week and now not a drop.

My 95 Tercel had a bad rear main that leaked at least 1 qt. per 1000 mi. Found Toyota mechanic who was willing to do some side work and cost less than 200.00 Not bad considering engine must be removed. If you do this I recommend having front and rear seals and new timing belt installed.Perfect time to do .

Don't know about 97 but my 95 Tercel with 5EFE gets between 42 to 44 mpg

4.5 qts with filter 7.2 pints dexron