Volvo 940

There is a timing mark (Notch) on the crankshaft pulley. It lines up with the 0 deg index line on the timing belt cover when #1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center. To check it, disconnect the battery take out #1 spark plug stick a straw in the hole and manually rotate the engine until the cylinder is all the way up. Be careful not to cut the straw in half. If it is wrong you need a new crank shaft pulley. The pulley has a neoprene sleeve between the hub and the shive (belt groves). Sooner or later the neoprene fails and the shive slips (rotates). This is often heard as a slipping belt sound that can't be cured by replacing belts. For more details go to http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ It is the ultimate Volvo 940 site.

drain the gearbox and refill with ATF the valves in the gearbox stick due to dirty ATF.

Older models, no. Current models, unlikely. But it would be good to know what year and model, eh?

Overall, the FPR controls the fuel pump only.

check the wiring to the sensor switch on top of the gear box one is for the overdrive and one is reverse but check all fuses first.

According to my manual it's 1-3-4-2 where 1 is in the front

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See: http://www.motocykle.org/Dokumentacje/940/VOLVO%20940%20%201993.pdf

PDF contains lots of wiring schemes. Although it is for the 1993 model it was applicable for my own 1992 model. Wiring for power seats starts at page: 12

Jan

inside the gearbox any trouble you get with a gearbox drain and refill with new ATF.

The fuel filter is located under the car, under the passenger seat, well slightly back. If you lie at the front passenger door, slipe under and look down towards the rear drivers side wheel you'll see, just in front of you, a cage, this holds the filter and fuel pump.

Undo the cage securing bolts, remove the filter, it's cliped onto the fuel pipes so care must be taken when taking it off as fuel will spill out and again, when fitting, make sure all connections are secure as you'll empty your tank very quickly if they are not.

You can get a vacuum diagram for a 1993 Volvo 940 on the AutoZone website. They have nine different diagrams that can be enlarged, and a list of the components.Ê

change the flasher relay goggle Volvo relays.

Had same problem with my 91. Foam inside the turbo unit was breaking down and clogging the turbo. Open the unit and see what state the foam is in. May be able to vacum out area else you will have to check all the hosing.

i had a same yr 740 t , replaced mass airflow sensor and everything was fine, hope this helps :)

On the passenger side on the side of the block.It's bottom is pointing outwards.

the crankcase breather runs over it is a hose going over the top of the engine from the AGR valve fitted in the hose in the air flow meter over the top of the engine to a nipple very easy to break i all ways fit new one there is a small hose coming from the back of the inlet manifold pull off from there first or you break the nipple now with care pull up the hose over the top of the engine ,now look down and you find a small black box it has two 10 mm bolts remove and pull up the box and clean each part with gunk or diesel remove large hose to inlet manifold and you find easy to remove or replace.

Its located inside the top of the top radiator hose, loosen the clamp around the top of the top hose connected to the motor with needed tool, do not disconnect the end connected to the radiator. Pull the top of the top radiator hose back and you will see a small removable cylinder metal part, that is the thermostat. Please make sure to note how this part is sitting in the motor, the new one has to go in the same way or it wont work, remove the rubber ring out too, it should be on the thermostat and a new one needs to be installed with the new thermostat. The new rubber ring needs to go on just like the old one, it might seal onto the new thermostat so check the old one. Once the new rubber ring is on the new thermostat, place it in the area on the motor, just like the old one was and attached the clamp back around the hose and tighten the hose clamp. Start car and make sure no leaks are coming out top hose and that the car is running cool, not hot, then replace lost coolant by adding in the reservoir tank only, remove the cap slow so you don't get a spray of hot coolant on you, yea, this is going to leak out some when replacing the old thermostat in the beginning from the top hose and possible when adding new coolant to the reservoir, good luck.

check the coolant temperature sensor. When this sensor goes bad, its resistance is too high signaling the engine control unit the temp is way colder than it really is so the computer flloods the combustion chambers while cranking the engine and so no start.

you need to use sythetic i fyou havent already switched it over 10w30 or 40 is best and marcronIII is best for transmission and for brake fluid just use dot4 and the same can go in the powersterring filler and antfreeze you can use prestone or any kind you like but don't ever just add water because Volvo i4 engins have alumnum colling parts and will rust plus if you live in a cold climent the water will freeze and crack your head.

you do not have a neutral safety switch it is a valve in the gear box adjust the linkage put in first gear now to the engine bay look at the throttle now adjust the linkage see if gearstick is in the right place the engine must only start in park or neutral if not you must adjust the linkage.

Above the right front passingers feet.

VERY CAREFULLY! The plastic cover becomes very brittle with time. There is a hole on the bottom of most of them. Insert a small screw driver to push up the catch then pull the cover strait back (towards the front of the car). I am sure the dealer can get you a new cover, but you won't like the price so be careful.Al93 945 with ~ 400K mi, my 7th RWD Volvo

you have one of two things change the fuel injector relay in the engine bay or more than likely a build up of carbon on the valves get a good fuel cleaner into the tank .

behind the front ashtray take off the ashtray you then see a cover now read it at the bottom press to remove you find both relays and fuses.

Near the bottom of the radiator on every car there is a small plug, sometimes it has a screw or bolt head. It faces the rear of the car.

Remove it and then let the fluid drain into a pan. Once the coolant has finished draining, plug the drain hole on the rad then fill the system up with water using the cap on the top of the radiator.

Run the engine for 10 minutes, then shut it off and let it cool down for 20 minutes. Once cool, remove the plug from the bottom of the rad again and let all the water drain out. Once empty, replace the plug again.

Fill the system with your new coolant, run the engine for 10 minutes, then let it cool. Once cool, top up the coolant again.

Now you're done.

Check that the antenna is plugged in on both ends. For the back end, open the trunk and detach the fuzzy trunk liner from the left wall of the trunk (where the antenna goes into the car). You'll find the antenna motor assembly there; you can't miss it. There are two connections on it, one for power (I assume) and the other for the signal. Check that the proper plugs are plugged in and secure. For the front end, you want to make sure that the antenna is plugged into the stereo. If you still have the factory stereo installed, press the two vertical slits on the both sides of the stereo, so that spring-loaded finger holds pop out, then use those holds to pull the stereo out. Ensure that the antenna is plugged into the back. It's a lone, black cable with a metal plug on the end. If all of that checks out, you may need to consider replacing the antenna motor assembly (I got one from a junk yard for cheap) or the car stereo.