Volvo 960

The symbols are explained in the owner's manual. If you dont have one. I believe there are some that are scanned online.

You could locate the hazard light fuse which is located on the drivers side dashboard next to the door. If you put hand between the driver's door and the dashboard there is a panel there. Open it and there are the fuses. Please dont close the door on the hand! Also there is a hazard light relay under the radio (center console) which is accessible via another panel near where the driver right leg usually is while driving.

Depending on the year/model there is either a crank-handle for manually opening/closing the sunroof in the event of an electrical motor failure. If there is no visible crank handle, remove the cover plate at the roof and look for a screw/peg that can be turned to open the sunroof.

Check the fuse first. Usually the sunroof motor shares the same fuse as the power seats and windows. If these don't work it may be a faulty fuse.

If the fuse is ok press the sunroof switch. Do you hear the sunroof motor kick in, even though the roof won't move? In this case the sunroof may just be 'sticking'. Try a few squirts of penetrating fluid into the rails and latch mechanism.

JB Weld? Drain fluid, make sure it's realllly dry. If it's cracked, smear JB weld or another epoxy compound that bonds to plastic, wait for it to cure (probably 4-6 hours), then refill fluid and see if it leaks at full operating temperature.

I would like to install a timing belt on my 93 960 volvo / how do I line up the cams with the crank shaft???

If you started it when the engine was cold and then did not run it long enough to warm up at all, it may well have a valve that is stuck open. I have a 94 960 and that is what happened to it. Google it and you will see others have experienced this. Some recommendations are to always run it to warm once it has been started from cold, to always use synthetic motor oil, and to run the engine (while driving in low gear) at high RPM for five minutes.

Remove the consol ,there is in the bottom box a little cover (remove with screew dirver) onscreew the two screews under that thinny plate.

If you remove consol you will see a screew 10mm that the adjustement.

Nilsson of Laholm/ Sweden are volvos approved specialist builders Nilsson of Laholm/ Sweden are volvos approved specialist builders, although corperate limosines in usa built some for their home market

To remove the driver seat from a 1996 Volvo 960, first disconnect the car battery to avoid any electrical issues. Then, slide the seat all the way forward to access the rear mounting bolts, and use a socket wrench to remove them. Next, slide the seat back to access the front bolts and remove those as well. Finally, unplug any electrical connectors underneath the seat, and carefully lift the seat out of the car.

To remove the tailgate panel on a 1995 Volvo 960 wagon, start by opening the tailgate and carefully prying off any plastic trim pieces or covers that might be hiding screws. Next, remove the screws using a suitable screwdriver, and ensure to check for any hidden clips or fasteners. Once all screws and clips are removed, gently pull the panel away from the tailgate, taking care not to damage any wiring or connectors attached to the panel. Finally, disconnect any electrical connections if necessary before fully removing the panel.

To remove the shift control lever on a Volvo 960, first, ensure the vehicle is in park and disconnect the battery for safety. Then, remove any trim or covers surrounding the gear shift to access the mounting screws. Unfasten the screws and carefully pull the lever upward to detach it from the assembly. Finally, disconnect any electrical connectors if applicable before fully removing the lever.

To change the timing belt on a 1994 Volvo 940, first ensure the engine is cool and disconnect the battery. Remove the engine covers and any components obstructing access to the timing belt, such as the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys. Align the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft, then loosen the tensioner and remove the old belt. Install the new timing belt, ensuring proper alignment with the timing marks, and reassemble the components in reverse order before reconnecting the battery.

1 3 4 2 with number 1 cylinder being at the radiator end of the engine.

If you mean the Ignition Amplifier - it's a small rectangular Electronic part attached to the inner wing behind the battery - Bosch Part - about �50 to replace, they seem to go wrong at around 10/14 years - easy plug in replacement but use the heat sink conducting paste supplied with a new unit If you didn't mean the Ignition Amplifier - well - ignore all I've said.

Take off the door panel. the plastic clip that holds the metal rod to the door handle came off or broke off. replace it.

inside the trunk

Volvo 960:

How do you remove the heater core from a 1996 Volvo

Remove battery cable

Remove the tilt wheel handle, use a 3 mm allen wrench from below, small access hole in the lower column cover

Next the column top cover from below 4 screws, one at each corner. Then the bottom cover: 2 screws in the middle.

Remove air bag & steering wheel: Turn the wheel 90º in each direction to access the T30 torx bit screw from behind the wheel, you need a bit that can reach at least 2". Unplug the bag and place the bag in a non static area with the bag face pointing up, not face down. Remove the center bolt holding the wheel, but do not pull the wheel off the shaft, IINM it's 18mm. Center the wheel, take the phillips head screw out of it's storage in the wheel and place in the hole in the clock spring, this will lock the clock spring in place, do not turn the steering wheel at this point. Mark the position of the wheel hub to the column shaft, just scratch with a screw driver. Pull the wheel off.

Remove the turn signal and wiper control stalks, unplug the electrical connectors first, then remove the two screws holding each control. You may find it difficult to unplug the cruise control cable, if so just leave it for now, let the control hang down, otherwise follow the cable back to the dash, there is a tab that points up, behind which is the connector (usually), pry/pull this tab down and unplug the cable. Also unplug the ignition switch.

Remove the clock spring, follow the orange cable back to the dash, there is a tab that points up, behind which is the connector, pry/pull this tab down and unplug the cable. Then remove the three screws holding the clock spring on the column.

Pop out the switch+trim panels to the left and right of the column, unplug the switches an pull out the back lights. Leave the headlight switch in place. No need to mark the connectors as they will only fit into the correct switch or will be color coordinated to the switch connector.

Remove the center console: two 8mm bolts at the front, two screws in the bottom of the storage bin, two screws below the pop out panel in at the base of the parking brake lever opening. Note: you want to slide the entire console back before attempting to free the trim panel from around the shift lever and from the console. You need to also remove the rear ash tray panel and unhook the lamps on that panel, once the hard ware holding the console is out this becomes very easy, just lift up the console and reach under to release the tabs that hold the panel at the bottom, this you can see better if you remove the ash tray first. Also be very careful about the light spreader for the heated seats switches as this is very easy to break where the lamp is installed. The heated seat switch connectors are color coordinated.

Remove the seats. (note once ready to remove, place heavy blanket over the door panel to protect and be careful not to scratch the dash. The seats exit the car bottom first, if the steering wheel is still in place, the back of the driver's seat remains below the level of the wheel. As you remove the seat and pivot it out the door on it's back, be very careful not to ram the seat rails into the door or dash, two people will make this easier, one person remains inside the car.

Working under the dash, remove the under dash covers above the driver's footwell and passenger footwell. Remove the driver's metal knee bolster support: 2 10mm nuts, two bolts.

Remove the kick panel covers.

Remove the glove box: two screws accessed with the door open, one on each side behind little square covers that you pop out. Two screws from below at each end of the box.

Remove A pillar covers (APC=A pillar cover). First you have to take loose the long strip panel between the headliner and the door opening just at the front next to the APC: remove the handle above the passenger door (center strip of handle pries out to access the 4 screws), or the two plastic covers above the driver's door (they pop off when pried from above or below to access the single screw per cover). Then you can pull this strip away from the roof and access and remove the singe screw behind that holds the A pillar cover (note it kinda hooks into the APC, a peg sticks into a hole in the plastic just below where the screw goes). Then starting at the end of the APC nearest the roof, you pry/pull the APC away from the pillar to free to clips, then pull the APC up in the direction of the pillar to free it from the bottom clip.

Next, pop the defroster panel/cover loose, just put a screwdriver down between the between dash and panel and pry up gently. (upon reassembly: make sure you put this back in before reinstalling the APCs)

Remove the radio support (black plastic that the radio sits in): remove ash tray and the radio first, then two screws at the top and bottom, unplug the two wires and one lamp for the cigarette lighter, and pop out the lamp for the ash tray.

Take the relay panel loose: one thumb screw towards the front of the panel, this panel complete will stay with the dash. Unplug the two ground wires to the ground point below the fuse panel, unbolt the one ground wire bolted to the relay panel support bracket.

Junction box: located just above the hood release, pop the cover off, unbolt from dash, unplug the two largest wires from each end of the box.

Electrical connectors:

I found all connectors to be unique, in other words they were all either physically designed so they could only be plugged into the correct receiver or they were color coordinated, thus I found no need to mark any of them.

→Left side: unplug the two large connectors as the left corner of the dash, also the two wire sun roof connector and yellow connector for the brake light switch. If you are still using the factory amp, you need to unplug that too. See: http://www.threefattigers.com/Projec.../760-3376b.jpg

→Right side: one large connector tucked above the fan motor. On some cars you might find a wire or so that runs through here that will require one or more tie straps to be cut above the glove box area, I didn't find such on my '90.

→Center: unplug the 8 or more connectors that come up into the relay panel area.

→HVAC: several connectors all over the HVAC air box.

Final hardware: two bolts: one at each end of the dash near the kick panels, two screws just above the steering column. Two screws at the base of the dash center console.

Now all that holds the dash in are the 5 tabs on the dash, held by 5 clips at the base of the windshield, find a object you can insert into the center hold of the clip to release the tab, I used an allen wrench. Do this one at a time will pulling slightly on the dash to release.

(note these clips are often found broken, be prepared to replace them, rotate to release the clips from the body)

At this point the dash is free to remove, two people to guide it out of the car is best but not required. I would store it upside down on the floor, preferably on a blanket or carpet.

Unbolt the relay panel support bracket from the tunnel.

At this point you need to work the rear floor outlet pipes out of the way, if the seats are out, there is a single bolt under the carpet that you remove and this makes it much easier.

Remove the front foot well outlet, this tray like item just slides straight back and out.

Remove the center defroster duct, pull the left hose off, two 8mm bolts then lay it to the right of the air box.

The core is then accessed by removing the cover with the three large vacuum solenoids, just a series of 8mm screws around the perimeter. In the engine compartment there is a metal plate on the fire wall where the heater core pipes stick through, it is best to remove this first, just one 10mm nut.