VW Beetle Type 1

I have the same car and I recently discovered Premium Unleaded gas is what I am supposed to use. It says it on the inside of the flap where you put the gas in.

Check your fuses - second fuse from the right may be blown. Also check your points for corrosion and proper gap. .016" open gap at top of lobe.

Check the owner's handbook.

Your alarm needs to be reset. Look in the manual for instructions. The alarm was probably arms when you changed the battery an now the alarm computer is thinking that it is being triggered by the ignition.

Buy a kit at U-Haul comes with instructions and adaptors

If you dont have the key you'll need a lug removal tool link below "Snap-On" There are cheaper ones out there just look around

P165/80R15 is the standard size.

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The 2013 Volkswagen Tiguan is 5 ft. 11.2 in. (71.2 in.)12V front, 12V rear and 12V cargo area power outlet(s) wide.

5mm. Any car parts place has this, but be sure you get fuel hose not vacuum hose.

The 12v model of the 1967 vw beetle is a group 42.

If you're talking about the one in the back, it's a standard right-hand thread but thanks to repeated heating/cooling cycles the nut is on there TIGHT! You can't get it off with a regular wrench. There are a couple ways to do it.

The cheapest way to do it is to get a "VW Axle Nut Tool." This is a piece of steel with a 1/2" square hole for your breaker bar on one end of it, and a 36mm, or 46mm if you're working on a Bus, hexagonal hole on the other end. You remove the cotter pin from the nut, put your breaker bar in the breaker bar hole, put the other hole on the nut you're trying to get off, then WITH THE TIRE STILL SITTING ON THE GROUND press down on the breaker bar with your left hand and beat on the axle nut tool, right above where the breaker bar is going into it, with a three-pound sledgehammer. This is guaranteed to get the nut off. If you do it all the time you'll ruin your bearings, but if you do it just once every couple of years it's okay.

You can also use a 3/4" drive 36mm socket and breaker bar with a long cheater bar (when you do this you stand on the end of the wrench and bounce up and down until the nut gives up), a 3/4" drive impact wrench or any other way of generating a few hundred pounds of torque.

All you need to do is simply unscrew the cable from the speedometer. It should be on the right hand side on the back. The cable is routed from the trunk through the wheel well to the right front wheel. Take the hubcap off. Next, take the c-clip that is on the end of the speedo cable coming through the dust cap. Now you should be able to pull it from the back side of the brake backing plate. Guide it through the "bracket" and pull it into the trunk. There, it should be free!

well make sure it's connected, under the car, behind the engine you should see something that looks like a muffler with pots connecting towards the front of the car, these should have hoses from them going into the car, and WORKING levers on the top of these HEATER BOXES, next make sure that the two yellow leavers next to the driver and passenger seats are operational, next make sure that the vents under the rear seat and foot wells of the front seats are open and nowt broken.

Is your Bug currently on a level surface? Do this: With the engine off, open the hood and put the car in gear. Then go back there and, with one of your buddies, push the car. If the engine turns (and the car's really hard to push), the car WILL go into gear. If the engine won't turn, the shift linkage is worn out. You get the shift linkage as a "coupler" that mounts on the shifter rod and a rubber bushing. You get to this by removing the back seat base. There's a plate on the transmission tunnel. Take it off, and the shift linkage is right in there. Don't bother jacking the car up; the setscrew for the linkage is on top.

If it's not that, try adjusting the clutch.

If that doesn't work, you'll have to replace the clutch--which means pulling the engine.

The number indicates a VW typ1 beetle, not the year.

The 111 prefix indicates a 1971 type 1 Beetle #101102 off the line.

The engine is rear mounted and the boot is at the front on the older classic Beetles. The New Beetles have the engine in the front and the boot (trunk) in the back.

Use a screwdriver in the generator pulley notch to lock the shaft. Remove the nut, make sure you keep the spacers in order. Pull the pulley half off. Install belt, reassemble. Turn the pulley as you tighten the nut to allow the belt to be installed evenly. When done with ignition key off and car in neutral try to turn engine over by using your hands to turn the gen pulley. If this works and does not slip press the belt inwards in the center, it should deflect a bit less than 1/2" (13mm). If no then take a shim from outside the pulley and put it inside, this spreads the pulley halves and loosens the belt. Opposite action tightens the belt. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, too tight will cause damage $$$$$$...

$1200.00 usd-$1950.00 usd

try putting a voltage regulator in it. Should help out.

Your timing is off--WAY too retarded. How to fix: You already did the tuneup thing. You got the points set to 0.016" and the plugs--always Bosch Supers please--to 0.028" (they come out of the factory set to that, but check them before screwing them in) so now dig out your dwell/tach and your timing light, and a 10mm socket on a long extension. Find the timing mark--a notch filed into the rim of the crankshaft pulley--and paint it white so it's easy to see. White-Out works. Warm your car up, and then... set the idle to about 1000rpm and turn the engine off. hook up the timing light...red clip to a source of power, black clip to a known ground, spark sensor clip around #1 spark plug wire. start the engine loosen the distributor clamp, but BE CAREFUL!!! The fan belt is right there! pull the trigger on the timing light and point it at the crankshaft pulley. slowly rotate the distributor until the timing mark on the pulley aligns with the seam in the engine case. If it goes the wrong way, turn the distributor the other way until it lines up. Then tighten the distributor clamp, turn off the engine, unhook and stow everything, and you're done. The actual timing is 5 degrees before top dead center, but VW was nice and offset the mark for you so you wouldn't have to estimate anything. If you've got a pulley with a degree wheel on it, the engine turns clockwise so the 5 degree mark you want is the one to the right of zero. Plug wires hooked up incorrectly.

The Beetle exhaust system is prone to leaks.....any air entering the exhaust will cause back-fire pop on the over run...ie: coming off the throttle at highway speeds.

About the timing...do NOT use a 009 Bosch distributor. Use the factory distributor with vacuum advance that takes the Bosch 044 points set. If you have dual carbs just leave vacuum unhooked on the distributor..

Set timing for 30 to 33 degrees BTDC at 4000 rpm with no vacuum hooked up if this is a stock motor. If it has had the compression ratio reduced or hemi cut heads, use 36 BTDC as timing.. On a stock pulley, the DENT in the edge rolled lip next to the block is TDC and the sharp edged notches are 7.5 and 5 btdc. Case center parting line is TDC reference. If you have dual carbs with no vacuum ports you can't use a vacuum-advance distributor. The spark has to advance as you accelerate, and if you unhook the only advance mechanism your distributor has, your car will run horribly. If you've got a single carb, you can use the "single vacuum dual advance" distributor aircooled.net sells; this is a Bosch 009 with an added vacuum advance can, and it works well. If you have a carb that doesn't have a vacuum port, you need something that's centrifugal-only. Either a 009, a Mallory or an MSD.

It was VW's answer to the USA's crash test requirements. VW stretched the front end a couple of feet, changed the steering wheel shaft, strut type suspension, etc., to meet the new requirements and to add a few refinements.

Should be a screw at the side of the jack body Make sure piston is in collapsed position and fill with hydraulic jack oil to this level

in the front under the spare tire and on bthe floor pan under the ack seat