VW Beetle Type 1

If it is popping out of gear only under acceleration and not other times this could mean there is a transaxle problem. May be time for a rebuild. Make sure there are no problems with the shifter bushings both under the shifter and at the transaxle nosecone. Otherwise be prepared to get a new transaxle.

Get John Muirs -"How to keep your Volkswagen alive, A manual for the Compleat Idiot" and Bentleys "workshop manual". They have a huge amount of info, John Muir is a "real world" work-book and the Bently Manual is the VW "Official Workshop Manual" . Your gonna need a helper. Check the bulbs, check for power at the contacts for the bulb. Make sure the key is on when you are checking for power. If you have power at the contacts then clean the contacts up good including the contacts on the bulb. Check and clean up the ground wires also. You might want to unscrew then screw the the Tail Light mounts to make sure the ground is good. If no power at the contacts then check the fuse. if the fuse is OK then check for power after the fuse. Clean the contacts up on the fuse holder. If power there then check for power at the brake lite switch at the master cylinder. Take the plug off and check for power going to the wire. If power is there then the switch may be bad. Make sure the contacts are clean.

Yes.

They r 17mm.

The cable is routed through a metal tube made into the center "tunnel" in the floor pan. It also goes through the engine fan housing inside another tube. I would not suggest trying to thread a used cable with a frayed end back through the tube. Get a new cable and consult the Robert Bentley manual for more details.

Call Smith & Wesson's customer service desk. They will be happy to research that for you. Their number is 800-331-0852. I recently called all the manufacturers of my many guns and got the "born on date" for each. Often times they will only tell you a year, or maybe even the month and year. And, occassionally they will have the exact date. Good luck.

On the transmission crossmember there is a tensioner that works by adjusting the bolt in and out take both bolts out an equal distance.

It can vary greatly with how good or bad the car is tuned. 20 to 35mpg have been seen. 25mpg seems to be the average.

Absolutely. Volkswagen Type 1 includes:

standard Beetle (which we didn't get in the US; it was a "fleet car" for people who bought the cheapest thing imaginable)

deluxe Beetle (the version the US received)

Super Beetle

Type 1 Karmann Ghia (there is also a Type 4 KG, but they're very rare)

The Thing

The o2 sensor is apparantly picking up a "lean" signal because you have too much air and not enough fuel going through your injectors. Possibly caused by a problem in your "evap" system, or a bad "ecg" sensor. also possibly caused by clogged injectors.

The 2014 Volkswagen Beetle-Convertible has 31.4 in. of rear leg room.

The 2014 Volkswagen Beetle has 15.4 cu.ft. of cargo capacity with all of its seats in place.

Yes It will. no problems. might have to pull and tug when you put it on.

Radio's and Cigarette lighters were Dealer only options.

If the previous owner had it installed it would probably be under the dash or in the ash tray.

Please describe the noise and how often you hear it.

Does it happen more often at high speed? low speed? when car is moving? braking?

Otherwise it could be your weird brother in the back seat! ::D

VW Beetles weren't made for sale in 1944.

Behind the left hand headlight assembly in the engine compartment. They are all black in color and not labeled so from here you're on your own.Bud Sisto

1 4 3 2
1-4-3-2 It should be printed on the front of the engine just below the alternator/generator.

Oh boy.

If the car's chassis number starts with "111" it's a 1971-year 111; if it starts with "113" it's a 1973-year 111.

Chassis number and type number are two totally different things, though, and we're now talking types.

The difference between a 111 and a 113? The 111 is the Deluxe Beetle. There is also a Standard Beetle that falls into type 111; these were only for Third World countries because they were even more rudimentary than the Bugs we got here. Anyway, this car had the flat steel dash, the standard front suspension and the standing-on-edge spare tire.

The 113 is the flat-windshield Super Beetle. It was two inches wider in the back (which is why rear spoilers for type 111 won't fit on a Super), it's got MacPherson strut front suspension, the spare tire lies flat in the trunk and there were a couple other things I don't remember. I think the dash was a little different, but it was still very similar to the one in the 111.

The curved-windshield Super is type 1311. Both cars' chassis number starts with "13." 111 is a 1971, 113 is a 1973 The third number also indicates the year of the vw.

Fuse number 41 (15 amp)

I would have to say the easiest way and probably the cheapest way to lower the front end of a Vdub is to just buy some new springs. You can get into some pretty crazy set ups for lowering the front and rear but they can get pretty expensive. I have a 01 GTI VR6 and got some neuspeed sport springs and it lowered the car nearly 2" in the front and 1.6ish in the back and cost me for springs and to have them installed 380 and took a little more then an hour. But you will be surpised at the sites that are out there for aftermarket parts for Vdubs. If its an older beatle I'm not to sure but I'm sure you can find something on the web for them.

It's a fun job because you get to use hammers, and you may not have to change it. These almost all get changed because you managed to break off the hook the clutch cable rides in. Start by unhooking the accelerator cable from the carb, then undoing the two bolts that hold the pedal cluster to the tunnel, unhook the accelerator cable, and pull the pedal cluster out. The piece that was inside the tunnel is where the problem lies. If the hook broke off, you've got to replace the shaft. If it DIDN'T break off, you wore through the pin in the clutch cable clevis that goes over the hook. Assuming the hook's broken, start by finding the alignment bolt for the shaft, and remove it. It's a hex-head bolt sticking out of the clutch pedal arm down at the base, and you'll see it. Use a big hammer and a big drift to beat the shaft out of the pedal cluster. Put some grease--lithium, moly, CV grease, whatever you have--on the shaft and slide it into the cluster. Rotate it so the hook is up and the hole for the alignment bolt is lined up, and install the bolt. Jack the left side of your car up and loosen the clutch cable a LOT--you can remove the adjuster nut if you'd like. Catch the pin in the clutch cable clevis over the hook, then set the pedal cluster about where it goes. The brake pedal has a pin coming off it that works the master cylinder. Put this pin into the master cylinder, hook up the accelerator cable and bolt the pedal cluster back in. Finally, adjust the throttle and clutch cables.

Look in your owners manual. It should be listed under capacities. On a 2000 1.8 turbo it is approximately 4.5 qts.

There are actually two different types of these and the newer one simply has a screw in the end so I will assume you have the older one. At the end of the forend assembly you will see a steel retaining plug that attaches to the tube assembly that goes through the forend. It is held in place by a retaining pin that must first be removed. After that has been done the plug can now be removed from the end. Next you will need to release the action and slide the forend back to the receiver which will expose a hole in the slide asembly tube. Take a heavy drift punch and insert it into the hole and turn the tube out counterclockwise. You can now slide the barrel and the forend forward thus disengaging the tube from the forend. The last step is to use a spanner (or homemade wrench ) wide enough to unscrew the forend retaining ring. With the ring removed you are now ready to slide the forend off the slide assembly. Hope this helps. Steve