VW Beetle Type 1

all the petals are on single cluster that is attached to the right side of the drivers floor, unscrew the two bolts that hold the assembly on...... beware, removal of the petal assembly will disrupt/disconnect the clutch cable as well, so be prepares to detach the cable off of the transmission.... buy yourself a new pedal cluster and slap it righ back in... but remember to re attach the clutch cable inside the hole....

I just repaired my sunvisor. You have to buy four new guides for the sun visor. It cost me $75.00 Cdn. from the dealer.You have to remove the sunroof. With it tilted up there are three screws on each side. After the sunroof is off you can jimmy the visor forward to take it out and put on the new guides. I set the visor on and put the guides on in the track on one side in then the other side. It is a tight fit. When you put the sunroof back on make sure the tilt is down to position the glass properly. It took about an hour to do.

go to the samba.com and then go to the technical section. All the diagrams you could ever need

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/ the link

Raising the ride height of the front suspension is best accomplished by installing adjusters to the torsion housing, or buying a torsion housing (front beam) with adjusters already installed. These adjusters and modified torsion housings (front beams) are available from numerous VW parts sources.

oil and a sump gasket

1998.

Yes it will. The tire surface will not, however, be in full contact with the ground (it will be arch-shaped) as a result of not having a 185mm wheel - all beetles ran on 155/80 R15 tires. So if you are considering the purchase of larger tires for efficiency reasons it would be wiser to have the wheel modified.

Furthermore, any tire lower than the stock height (155/80) will result in a loss of top speed, while simultaneously adding acceleration and strenght. Fuel consumption will also rise. (155*0.8 = 124. 185*0.6 = 111.)

Last but not least, the car will lose its "vintage" look - perfect for "Cal Look" beetles, infamy for the purists.

Most of the people who've done it buy a second Beetle, cut their current one in half, cut a plug out of the other car and weld it into the first one. They then have to reinforce the frame by welding pieces of steel that run from front to back into the floor pan.

Its 40 liters just like on the other kinds of beetles.

VW changed gas tank design several times over the years. For a 59 bug, the correct gas tank design vintage is 1956 to 1960.

The wiper relay is located behind the fuse box, third socket from the drivers side. This relay controls the low speed and intermittent functions. It also controls the motor to "park" the wipers down rather than just stopping them. The 1st relay is for the E-flashers and turn signals and the 2nd relay is for the low/high beam headlights.

The answer to this question is yes and no. The 1974 Beetle engine is a carbureted dual port 1600. The 1979 engine has the AFC fuel injection system. This is an air flow control engine with electronic fuel injection. Now here is what I know about all of this. Many people have performed this swap, there are a number of small electrical changes necessary to do the swap, but it is fairly simple and straightforward. The reason that you are not supposed to make this change, is more of a legal or environmental issue. The US EPA has mandated that all motor vehicles meet or exceed certain emissions standards, these standards changed pretty much every year. There were several big "cuts" in allowable emissions, these were for year model 1975, and then again for year model 1980. The cuts in allowable HC emissions for the 1975 models resulted in many car companies changing over to a fuel injection system from the carburetors of old. Quite simply, VW made this change to allow them to meet the 1975 emissions levels. Standard Beetles were manufactured for sale in the USA up through 1977 (I was in high school and working as a mechanic in a VW dealership at the time). The air cooled VW engine soldiered on in the "Super Beetle Convertible" for the US market until production ceased for US market Beetles at the end of 1979. The 1980 emissions standards were simply too tough to meet with an air cooled engine. While in college 1977-1981, I was a member and student section president of our SAE section (Society of Automotive Engineers), and did some extra-curricular stuff with alcohol powered machines for alternative fuels, and emissions, so I got to know quite a bit about all of these laws and mandates. The real answer to this question, is whether or not your particular state tests for emissions on 1979 vehicles. Texas cuts this off for anything made prior to 1980, so you could probably do this in Texas today and get the car licensed inspected and street legal. While technically illegal, still subject to some pretty onerous fines, you would likely get away with it, as the EPA does not spend a whole lot of time going around to check tailpipe emissions on "1979 Bugs", there are just not that many of them out there. On the other hand, other states may have more restrictions on what is allowable for vehicle inspection and licensing.

yes it can

This is ideally a three-person job.

Person 1 is going to sit in the car and work the brake pedal. Person 1 needs to be a driver so he or she knows what a good solid-feeling brake pedal is like.

Person 2 is going to stand next to the front of the car and add brake fluid to the reservoir as needed.

Person 3 is you.

Go to the store and get some 7mm fuel hose, two quarts of DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, a 7mm box-end wrench and a jar. You should have jackstands, a jack, tire changing tools and so on.

You jack up the car and put it on four jackstands after you loosened the lug nuts.

You take off the wheel farthest from the master cylinder--right rear.

You look behind the brake and you should see a weird looking silver bolt thing sticking out. This is the bleeder valve. Put the wrench on it. Shove one end of the hose over the tip of the bleeder valve, and put the other end in the jar, covered in brake fluid.

Tell Person 1 that when you yell "pump" he or she is to pump the brake pedal real fast about 10 times, hold it down and yell "ready." Also tell Person 1 that when "ready" is yelled, his/her brake foot is going to sink to the floor right after that and that's okay.

Now go back to the right rear wheel, get down there, grab the wrench, make sure the hose is IN brake fluid (and that it hasn't gotten above the brake fluid in the jar at all), and yell "pump." When you hear "ready," open the bleeder valve by turning the wrench counterclockwise for a couple of seconds then close it by turning the wrench clockwise. The first time you do this, you should get a huge gush of air out of the hose. Do it a few more times, until you don't see air come out of the hose when you open the valve.

When that one's bled, bleed the left rear, then the right front, and finally the left front. It's best to bleed the whole brake system rather than just the rears, but if you insist you can bleed the rears alone. (If you have a 1966 or earlier you have to bleed the whole system because all four wheel cylinders are on the same brake circuit. In 1967 they changed it so the fronts and rears are on different circuits.)

Get one of those V-shaped interior door removers if you can or use any thing with an inch wide or so flat end that you can slip between the panel and the metal part of the door. If you have an old TABLE spoon that you can pound flat and then cut a V-shape notch in the center edge would work too. The panel has a series of "plugs" that plug into holes in the sheet metal. You have to try to separate the panel AT the "plug" areas so you have the best leverage. You have to carefully pry the plugs that the panel is popped into away from the door. The panel is just a fibre wood type so it doesn't take much to rip open the slots that the plugs are attached to. There's 20 or so pugs so slow and easy.

the year could be from any were from August 1960 to July 1965. its very hard to tel try looking for a letter before the first digit of the serail number.

However, if you go to "TheSamba.com" and click on the "Technical" tab at the top right of the page; they have a fairly complete listing of all Volkswagen-issued Chassis, Engine and Transmission serial numbers for air-cooled VWs going back to the early '50's.

If the serial plate on your engine has been riveted onto it, then it's probably a factory rebuild--and it may have been rebuilt to accept the installation of parts designed for use in other engines ( it's fairly common to find older 1200 cc engines that have been bored out to accept larger crankshafts).

Best guess is that your engine has been rebuilt using one of Volkswagen's stock blocks, that originally owned a serial number that began: "AD 397589"

About 1780lbs.

No. They did make a manually shifted "Semi Automatic transmission". No clutch, just shifted manually.

The night before you do this, put the car where you're going to work on it. The engine has to be absolutely cold.

You need:

Flat-tip screwdriver

13mm box-end wrench

(There is a VW valve adjusting tool that combines these two tools, but it's expensive and the screwdriver & wrench combo work great.)

.006" and .008" feeler gauges.

Set of valve cover gaskets, rags, glue

Tools to time the engine, because timing is dependent on valve clearance

30mm socket and ratchet

You do:

1) Inspect the area around the valve covers for oil leaks. If you find any, you need to replace the gasket.

2) Remove both valve covers and the distributor cap. Set the engine to top dead center on cylinder 1.

3) Crawl under and look at cylinder 1. You'll see the rocker arms. At the top of each is the adjuster with a jam nut around it. At the bottom of each is a place that looks like your thumb will fit right on it, which it will.

4) Time to adjust! Stick the screwdriver through the box end of the wrench, put the tip of the screwdriver in the slot on the valve adjuster and loosen the jam nut. Then back the adjuster off about a half turn. Put the .006 feeler gauge between the adjuster and the valve and...this is where it gets a bit delicate. You want the valve adjuster just loose enough that the feeler gauge will slip with just a little effort, but not loose enough the .008 gauge will go in. Once it's there, tighten the jam nut while holding the adjuster still with the screwdriver, then try removing the gauge and putting it back in. If it goes, try putting the .008 gauge in. If the .006 goes in and the .008 doesn't, adjust the other valve on this cylinder.

5) Crawl out and rotate the engine counterclockwise 180 degrees. Adjust valves on number 2 cylinder. Then rotate the engine counterclockwise 180 degrees and do number 3, then turn it 180 counterclockwise and do number 4.

6) Put the valve covers back on and time the engine.

If you have a few dollars, buy a good used copy of John Muir's "How to keep your Volkswagen Alive Forever" book. It will cover your basic maintenance and even your engine removal.

Here is an excellent link that describes the operation: http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/kuhn7.htm

should be 2 to 3 psig

It's possible that the idle speed is set to high or low. When you shift into drive, power is applied from the motor through the transmission to the CV axles. If the idle is set too high there will be too much power applied to a "stopped" car. If the idle is set too low, then when the car is put into drive, the RPMs will drop and the car will apply more gas to keep the engine from stalling.

Start your car and watch your tachometer. It will normally start off high (between 1-2k RPMs) then it should lower within a minute. Note the idle RPM. It should be around 1k RPMs (+/- 300 RPMs). If it's outside of that range or if the needle moves a lot, then there's something wrong. You can find the factory spec idle speed online if you look.

Under the windshield, at the middle of firewall panel. Engine hood must be raised.

This is a two-part answer.

If your car has stock fenders, I would stick with standard 165R15 tires because anything much wider will rub.

You can get fiberglass fenders for Bugs that will let you put any width tire you want on there.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug_std_super_72.jpeg

Lovebugs stay together because they constantly mate for days before they die.