VW Bus

Remove the splash pan (under front of bus). Remove the remains of the old cable, take a look at how it's connected to the carb. Rub graphite lube (or whatever you like) and push the new cable through the tube the old cable came out of. You push the new cable from the front of the bus to the back and it will emerge in the vicinity of the carb. Go inside the bus and wedge the pedal in the full back (up) position. Thread the "s" shaped hook through the hole in the bottom of the pedal mechanism below the bus. In the engine compartment, pull the cable end through the lead plug that fits into the carbs throttle..put just a little preload against the spring and squeeze the lead around the cable (not too tight just yet). Get back in the cab and gently feel if you have enough travel. If it feels okay, go back and tightly squeeze the lead end connector. Like most jobs, this is easier if someone helps you by holding up the pedal and observing the travel of the the carb, but sometimes it's just you and the bus!

2000

America

it only takes less than an hour, its a very simple system.

Should be 4 bolts--one in each corner

Theoretically, yes...as the entire undercarriage is a "sealed" structure. That said, it won't float long, as it is pretty heavy and the seals around the bottom of the front doors are sure to fail and allow water in quickly.

Oh...please don't do this. Just give me your bus if you want rid of it.

I don't know if it'll help you much, but our Coleman Patriot is a 1976.

You remove the little bolt under the seat in the middle and then you slide the seat forward and lift at the same time. It should come off unless it is rusted in place, the you spray rust remover all over. Ron

Try asking on the forums at www.t5club.co.uk very helpful friendly free commity for worldwide VW T5 owners

There are three reasons: the belt broke (most likely), the alternator went out or the voltage regulator went out. If you have a pre-1972 Bus, the belt drives the engine cooling fan so get off the road and shut down immediately if the light goes on.

16

arooogah is how id put it

.030"

no anything below 76 is a no smog

You can not that truck has rack and pinion steering.

well for starters if you set the battery directly on the ground that will immediatly kill/drain the battery of all its juice. if you charged it and put it back in and still nothing your battery could be dead. if you turn the key and you hear kind of like a winding sound like something is spinning then hold the key down for a good 10 seconds, turn it all the way back to the off position and try it again if nothing happens then it could be your spark plugs. you can pull those and clean'em up a bit. re-gap them with a feeler gauge if need be spray a little dw-40 on them put them back in, make sure all the wires are put back on properly and try it again.

a good book to have is john muirs "how to keep your VW alive" in my opinion its the holy bible of VW books.

you can go to an old bookstore and probly pick one up for about $10

now let me tell you this, i dont own a bus, i have a bug so im just going off my knowledge from working on my bug. so just remember im not a certified technition.

Yes, you can find a 1969 split-screen VW camper, though it may require some searching as they are quite rare and sought after. Many of these campers are available through classic car dealerships, online marketplaces, and vintage car shows. Prices can vary significantly based on condition, originality, and modifications. Be prepared for potential restoration needs if you find one that requires work.

Pull the adjustment lever and pull them straight forward and they slide out.

I remove the distributor and rotate until the points are at the widest opening. Then using a .017mm fueler Gage I set the point gap. Reinstall the distributor, set timing and roll!

Anywhere from a couple hundred dollars for a "parts bus"--one that's only fit to be torn down for the parts in it--to $50,000 for a really pristine, all-original 21-Window Bus. The latter one won't ever be driven--it's a show car that lives its life in buildings and trailers.

If you want a good working bus that's a little rough around the edges to use for its intended purpose--carrying happy people, cargo and maybe a surfboard or two--figure $15,000-$20,000 for a Eurovan (4th generation, front engine and watercooled) $2500-$3000 for a Vanagon (3rd generation, rear engine, usually watercooled but sometimes aircooled), $2500-$5000 for a "breadloaf" bus (2nd generation--1969 until 1979; single windshield, always aircooled), and $5000-$15,000 for a split-windshield Bus (1968 and earlier).

Eurovans and Vanagons are sold on condition and options, as are most recent-vintage cars. Of the two, Eurovan is what you get if you want a good reliable car you can get parts for easily. In fact, it's a really good car--it's about midway in size between a Dodge Caravan and a Ford Econoline. It's front-wheel-drive. It can have the VR6 or TDI engines in it, so it moves out very efficiently. But...it's not the old classic Bus we're all familiar with. I used to be on the T2.com email list, where Eurovan is described in the FAQ as "both ugly and off-topic." If you want the engine in the back, the Vanagon has many advantages over earlier buses. It's also largely equipped, since 1984, with the "wasserboxer" engine, which is not-so-lovingly referred to as the "wasserleaker" engine for reasons you will understand once you get one. It's possible to put the engine out of a Rabbit, Golf or Jetta in it, using an adapter kit from Kennedy Engineered Products, the motor mounts out of a wrecked Diesel Vanagon (which had a Rabbit engine in it from the factory) and a huge toolbox.

There are three versions of the Loaf: Any Loaf 1971 or earlier has the same engine the Bug has in it. The advantage here is engine parts are inexpensive compared to later models, and easier to find. The disadvantage is the engines are more fragile than the later ones. Loafs 1972 and later have the "Type 4" engine. This engine was created to fix all the problems with the Type 1 engine. An example: the cooling fan on the Type 4 engine is bolted to the end of the crankshaft. If your belt breaks, your engine won't melt fifteen seconds later, like will happen on the T1. You WILL be running off the battery, because the alternator is still at the other end of that belt, but new batteries are cheaper than new engines. The T4 engine also has more power, and it's always bigger--1700cc to 2000cc. The disadvantage is it's WAY harder to get parts for one, and they're about twice as expensive. In that year range, there are two more distinctions: 1972s and 1973s have two Solex carbs, one over each head. 1974s and beyond all have Bosch L-Jetronic mechanical fuel injection. If the FI system is working right, that's what you want. If it's not working right...well, let's just say some of the parts are no longer available new, like the deceleration valve and the throttle switch. Your saving grace is Bosch convinced so many manufacturers to put L-Jetronic on so many cars, you should be able to find any part you need in a good-size junkyard. Junkyard diving is a skill ALL Volkswagen drivers need, and it's fun too.

Split-window buses are priced based on what they are, and you have to be real careful here--if you go to thesamba.com and look at the prices, you can see $15,000 buses with holes in the floor.

So let's see...Eurovan if you want high reliability, Vanagon or loaf if you want high usability with the engine in the back, and split-window if you want high style.

.016 as a reference

I'm definitely no mechanic but, i have a 1979 ford f100 with the original 302 in it and it doesn't have points.