VW Karmann Ghia

It is located on the dashboard by the steering wheel.

What year? Basically the bar is secured to the frame with bushings at 2 points at each end of the straight portion... and the ends are secured to the lower control arm with linkages bolts usually aprox. 6 inches to allow the control arm to go down and up with out restriction of movement. Rubber or poly material bushings are used between between the retainers and a sleve around the bolt is used in between the ends of the sway bar and the control arm. the sleeve absorbs the compression side and the bolt maintains the other when the vehicle sways.

1st step remove the resorts (springs)

2nd step push on the safety located on the front bottom

3rd step pull lever

4th step push seat forward

yes I would not recommend doing this, as the seat frames are different, a bug seat is higher than a Ghia seat, not sure if the bug seat and ghia seat have the same frame rails, however, might be a problem with headroom. The Ghia is substantially lower than a bug, the front seat area is both wider, and a bit longer than on a bug, and seats would generally not be considered interchangeable.

The 4 speed? Redline Mt-90 or MTL is a currently very over the counter modern version of what was used when the car was new.

Good Question. I would say another path you could take would be to track down the path of owners. This would involve remembering who you sold the car to (probably a longshot), and ask that person who they sold it to and so on and so forth. You could also try searching the net or in your local classifieds to see if the car is up for sale. You could possibly spot your car by remembering the plate number when you see it or by identifiyng a specific feature unique to your car. These could include, custom rims, paint, scratches never removed, upholstery, dents, etc. Hope This Helps

Drivers side of the transmission case, between the nose cone and axles. The late style (most common) takes a large Allen drive plug 17mm

The starter is bolted to the top corner of the transaxle, you can reach it by getting under the car. You must disconnect the batter cable at the batter first, then disconnect the positive battery cable, then you can unbolt the starter. There is a nut and a bolt holding the starter in place, the nut should be removed last. The bolt is also one of the four bolts holding the engine to the transaxle, so check the other three first, and make sure that all are in place and tight. It is a bit tight under there, but is usually not really hard to get to and remove the starter if need be. Lindsey Lee

Same as any type-1 base vehicle, above the engines crankshaft pulley and to the right of the carburetor. The generator has a v-belt driven pulley on one end and the cooling fan (enclosed by the shroud) on the other.

It's just a little bit of empty space, and bare metal. Works as a nice storage room, though. Especially if you could carpet it.

Beside the drivers seat by the door.

No. The manual for the Beetle Type I's indicate that it will run on regular unleaded fuel. 2. This is not required, but you might add a little(about a quarter cup) of Marvel Mystery oil to the gas and engine oil. Helps to lube the engine valves. But don't use to much at a time... It's good for older engines like the VW Bug. I've been running my 1968 the last four years as daily transportation on 10% gas alcohol blend, only adding marvel Mystery oil occationally.

http://home.clara.net/hallvw/vwwiring.htm has links to most air cooled vw wiring diagrams

None is needed. The car came from VW with hardened valve seats, and by now this specimen has had the heads changed--and all aftermarket heads have unleaded valve seats.

Check at rob and daves air cooled volkswagon pages. May not be specific to 69 but should cover basic procedure.There is a forum as well I believe.

If the car is properly functioning as it did when new, it should pass however there were very few 79 Super Bug Convertibles built, and quite a few appear to have had their fuel injection system engines replaced with earlier carburated ones. If the engine and catalytic converter are not as they were originally installed, you may not. I live in Texas, the state of Texas does not require emissions testing on cars built prior to 1980, so the 1979 bug might be fine here. I worked at a VW dealer when that car was new, the fuel injection system had a few wear items and quirks of use, the dual relay tended to go out (that is the relay behind the back seat that turned on the fuel pump when starting the car, and then kept it on once the car started. If the car would start and then die immediately that was usually the problem. The fuel injectors lasted ~ 25,000 to 35,000 miles then needed to be replaced, there were other similar issues with the engine. The fuel system was not terribly sophisticated by today's standards, but did require some special equipment to diagnose problems, and so many people have replaced those engines with 1974 and earlier carburated ones, this would not pass the '79 standards. Might have this looked at by a VW specialist in California. LL

I believe you're referring to the heater channels. These run the length of the car on both sides. Typically you have a heat exchanger attached to the exhaust and the exchanger then connects to the heater channels.

If these are open or capped off there's a good chance the car has an aftermarket exhaust attached that didn't include an connection for the heat exchangers so they were removed.

Now, if you're referring to the holes in the body panels on both sides just in front of the wheel, those are the access plates to the torsion bars in the rear suspension.

The Type 1 engine is the same for a Ghia and Bug with two minor differences, both related; The air cleaner is different due to the differences in body shape. The Ghia air cleaner is designed to fit off to one side with a crossover tube to connect to the carburator. On some carbs there is a slight difference in air correction jet size, to account for the differences in the air cleaners. My family owned a '62 Ghia hardtop (my dad bought the car just over a year old in '63), my first was a '59 hardtop purchased from a junk-yard car dealer in 1975, sold in 1995, my second was a '70 ghia vert, I owned it from 1980 to 1990. I am currently restoring another 70 vert doing a frame off, hope this helps aggieme81@gmail.com

If you need to change a door hinge just hope you don't strip or brake it off because tap and die sets are hard to get in the tight spot but get an impact Phillips 1/2 in drive tip and a low torque air gun remove the 3-4 on the upper one and 3-4 on lower ask a friend to help you hold the door. when you put it back use stainless steel screws that match you're treads it just takes time and i hope if you are outside its a sunny day it can take you about 1hr to 4hrs.

ghiakid1972

behind the drivers seat you''ll a white or black knob. Pulling the knob will open the engine compartiment

Go to this link: http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html That should help.

Interesting question. It normally leaks out and requires topping off rather than replacement. I recommend not changing it, rather top off with 90 weight gear oil, or...you can fill it full of moly grease and call it done. Either work fine.

Karmann Ghia Trunk?

I am not sure what you are asking, but will try to answer what you might have asked.

The VW Type 14 Karmann Ghia has a front trunk for luggage much like the VW Sedan (Bug) does. The Ghia has a pull handle on earlier models, and a small lever in later ones to open the front hood.

Lindsey Lee

PS from Altema: In addition to the front trunk, there is a rear luggage compartment behind the rear seat which is surprisingly large, and the rear seat flips down to become a carpeted luggage platform which extends under the rear window. As a bonus, there is a pair of hidden empty spaces under the rear seat (I'd recommend tool box liner to protect the metal floor).

Check the Kelly Blue book. It depends on the condition and mileage of the car.