Alternators

I just had an alternator on a 2008 Scion XD replaced at the dealership and if it weren't for the extended warranty I'd purchased, I was told it would have cost around $650. This seems INSANE to me. I've never payed more than $250 to replace alternators (with new parts) on any of the cars I've owned over the past 30 years.

This will vary based on where you choose to get the replacement alternator. The alternator will orbably run you around $200. The cost of labor for the repair will be additional.

connect an ac gauge and freon to the low side ac port. Start the engine and turn ac on high. Open the freon and watch til the gauge shows full.

I've never changed an alternator on that particular car. But, on most cars you just loosen the belt tensioner and take off the belt. (Make sure you know how your belt is routed.) Then, undo the electrical connections to the alternator. Next, take off the alternator bolts. Last, do everything in reverse to install your new alternator.

Hope that helps.

God bless

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sense wire has to have 12v on it to tell the alternator to charge - bad/broken wire,,, possible pcm failure.... disconnect sense wire from alt - jump terminal to the battery to see if it charges - if it does - you have found the problem

It is located within the fuse panel. In order to access it, pull down the fuse panel cover underneath the steering column.

what year diesel what size diesel

if it is 7.3 powerstroke, u remove serpentine belt

next you unplug wire harness from back of alternator

then you remove 2 bolts that hold alternator to engine

lift alternator off

installation is exact opposite

easiest alternator to change out

A bad alternator will make whats called a whirring noise. It could also make a low growl. This is just the bearings going bad. If your alternator is not supplying any power, it has nothing to do with noise typically.

I had the same problem when the batteries were so weak the charger would not be willing to power up because it was pullling to much amps. I solved problem by charging (2) two of the 6 volt batteries at one time by connecting in series and using my 12 volt car charger. You have to do this to all the batteries in the cart 2 at a time. After this the charger should work provided you do not let the batteries run down to far again!

I had this problem in the past, and only later found that the battery ground wasn't good. Removed black battery cable from the grounding point (opposite end of cable from battery), cleaned the spot where it was attached, and cleaned the cable end, then reattached it. Worked fine then. Only one possibility though.

I went to the auto parts store and purchased a book. I have a 1999 mountaineer that trashed the oil pump had to replace the engine, however I pulled the alternator, I am sory to tell you that if you have a 5.0 it is no easy task but the book will guide you. one bit if advice bag and label all the nuts and bolts there will be alot of them.

This is for the v-8. The v-6 is simular, but w/o the mounting bracket. 1.disconnect the battery. 2.Take tension off the drive belt and take it off from the generator. 3.remove the upper bolts from the generator bracket and remove it. (when you replace tighten to 89lb.in) 4.remove the positive cable nut and and cable. 5.remove the the lower generator bolts. (when you replace these bolts tighten to 18lb.ft) Reinstall the reverse way. I hope this helps you

I have a 1995 Isuzu model UBS69 and replaced the alternator on this vehicle some weeks back.

Start by disconnecting and removing the battery and moving all wiring associated with the battery away from the area around the air conditioning compressor.

The next step is to remove the air conditioning compressor and to do this start by removing the drive belts, the tensioner for the AC drive belts is on the top RHS side of the motor, release the tensioning securing bolts and release the tension on the drive belts then remove them.

Things are fairly simple and straightforward up to this point, now it is time to remove the AC compressor from it's mounts, there are 2 upper mounting bolts and 2 lower mounting bolts, three of these bolts are easily accessible however to remove the lower rear mounting bolt you may need to remove the turbo charger delivery hose, accessing the lower rear AC mounting bolt is quite tricky and can take a little while to remove.

Once the AC bolts are removed you should be able to lift the AC compressor out of the way without disconnecting the AC piping or hoses, you do not want to disconnect them as you will lose you AC gas charge, once moved out of the way and up towards the LHS of the engine bay you can tie it in place to stop it from annoying you or getting in the way.

When the AC unit is out of the way you release the tension on the alternator drive belts and then remove the belts.

You are now able to remove the alternator securing bolts and cock the alternator over on its side sufficiently to release vacuum lines, oil line to vacuum pump and wiring.

When these have been removed the alternator is free to be able to be removed from the vehicle.

Installation is the opposite to removal, however before installing new unit ensure that you put some oil into the vacuum pump through the fitting that the lube line connects to (the line that comes from the engine block) so as to not have it running dry for the first few moments of operation until your oil pressure comes up, and tension the alternator belts before reinstalling the AC compressor as it is easier to do this at this point of the procedure.

If you reverse the connection of the battery charger you will discharge the battery. You may be able to correct the connection and charge it properly, or the battery may be ruined.

no it has a stator charging system that uses a rectifier & volt regulator.

There should be 12 volts or close to it at the alternator b+ terminal. Possibly a wiring problem,fried fusible link wire or a blown fuse depending on vehicle make and model. Check for blown fuses or check at the starter solenoid for fried fusible link wiring. Some makes ,the PCM computer regulates the voltage...possible PCM problem,again depending on vehicle make..... You didnt specify what kind of vehicle this is...Year,make,model,engine size.... Doc J

Not exactly. But the voltage regulator can let too much voltage reach the battery.

Check:

1. Using a voltmeter, check batt voltage at rest. Should read +- 12.6 V.

2. Check voltage at idle. Should read +-13.6 V.

3. Increase motor speed. Should not go over 14.5 V (that's the use of a volt. reg.). If so, could be a faulty volt. reg.

A persistant over 15 V. output will ruin the battery.

did you find the problem?? i having the same deal with my '06. new battery and alt is fine!

depends on a number of factors such as dust and water affecting the device but it could last for some 10 years more or less.

Yes, there are CW and CCW alts. You need to know which way the engine turns and then find the correct unit for the job....

To test the starter, you need a verified fully charged battery and good connections. Crank the engine and check cranking speed, cranking noise, and cranking current. Compare against the manufacturer's specifications. Unfortunately, this can be a recurring problem, because failure in the starter, battery, or alternator can cause one or both of the other two to fail. Careful attention to detail is necessary. Don't just replace one part, without then verifying that the others are OK.

No. The short summary is that there usually is a fuse or circuit breaker in the line coming out of the alternator that protects the alternator from a sudden surge in power from some outside source and which also protects the engine's electrical parts from a sudden surge that might somehow come from the alternator (very doubtful this would happen). But that fuse doesn't keep the alternator charging in the strict sense of the phrase. What stops an alternator from charging is internal parts failure such as the burn out of a rectifier, bearing failure or the belt which drives the alternator failing or coming loose and slipping excessively. Short of failures such as these an alternator will keep on charging as long as the belt is turning its pulley and causing the rotor inside the alternator to turn.

If you can not find the alternator on a 2001 s-10 please stop and shut the hood and run to a parts store like autozone or O'reillys and ask for help ,,

Disconnect the battery. Remove the alternator belt. Disconnect the wiring on the alternator, then unbolt and remove the unit. Bolt the new alternator in place and connect the wiring. Install the belt and connect the battery back up.

from fiat dealer over 200 if you search around, alot less, i got a reconditioned one for 109 that's the cheapest unless you take a risk on e bay which are up for fifty something, i would advise buying the old fashioned way and see before you buy, its also handy if you get the part number if you have the opportunity to take it out. ring around and do your research

charlie