Chevy Camaro

The 1988 Chevrolet Camaro signal flasher unit is located beneath the drivers side dashboard. The signal flasher unit will be to the right of the brake pedal.

5:

1st generation: 1967-1969

2nd generation: 1970-1981

3rd generation: 1982-1992

4th generation: 1993-2002

5th generation: 2010+

A 305 is a small block Chevy, so, any small block Chevy will bolt right in. And, I have seen guys, with a little bit more work, squueeze big block Chevies into them. So, I guess, 700+ cubic inches will work too. The swap isn't that bad, really. I guess it comes down to the state you live in. The computer on that car only controls 2 things, so, overtaking it in that manor, won't be tough. Minimal smog equipment, unless, you have the dreaded Calif. smog option. Your biggest concerns will include: how much to get Curry to set up a nine inch rear end for you, as, no twelve bolt will push right under there, how much your local fabricator, assuming your not a welder, is going to charge you to tie the frame together with frame connectors, and a roll cage, so the doors will continue to close, and the windshield doesn't "pop" out on you, at lauch. I was going to do one of those once, but a C3, big block, 4 speed corvette fell in love with me, which led to an affair with an low 11 second Nova I met in a barn..........

it disables the starter and the fuel injectors

You will need to drain the oil from your 1988 Chevrolet Camaro oil pan. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts. Remove the oil pump retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new oil pump.

There is a sticker under the hood that tells what to set the timing to and at what idle speed.

One could easily purchase and fit tires and wheels for a Chevrolet Camaro SS at any tire retailer such as Fountain Tire or Kal Tire. They have many styles and sizes one could choose from as well they offer installation and tire balancing which is required when installing new tires.

1970-1981

It will be best for you to buy a Haynes Manual at a parts house or bookstore. It will give you full details and pictures. They have them that are specific to your car so you are not buying information on something you do not need.

Disconnect the battery. You will need to put the car up on jack stands, get under the car, drain the oil, remove the catalytic converter (which can be aggravating without a lift hoist, which I am assuming you don't have), remove the starter and flywheel cover, remove the oil pan (held on by about twenty 8mm bolts all the way around), clean the gasket surface, install a new gasket (put a small amount of RTV in the corners only!), install the pan (tighten the bolts evenly to about 100 inch pounds--CAUTION: that is not very tight, do not overtighten!), reinstall everything, fill the oil, and happy trails.

"Which can be aggravating" only hints at the misery you will invite when you have to remove the Y pipe assembly attached to the catalytic converter. Before you remove the first screw on the oil pan, make sure you can do it. I spent most of yesterday prepping the surfaces, working the gasket in from the outside of the pan and getting the silicone and screws done with 1 1/2 " of clearance, because I couldn't. No leaks, but oh ny god. As my dad would have said "It could make a preacher cuss."

remove reservoir cap and pump pedal until air bubbles rise. Liquid is heavier than air. AIR WILL RISE. there's got to be a bleeder valve somewhere, look to see if maybe the head of the bleeder got broken off (it happens, it sucks), otherwise it isn't a perfect bleed but disconnect the line, fill the cylinder with clean fluid and wait for fluid to start coming out of the hose, then quickly reattach the hose

Lifters or valves.

This should be able to help you out if the question has not been answered from another source....the brand new price for the 1984 BMW 325e in the US was $18,210

20,302 Z28's were made in 1969

yes it could.... that's the whole point.... someone steels your car and unless they can shut the alarm off correctly the car won't start...

Yes . You may need to look at the ignition switch (key). There is a wire that can break (wraps around the cylinder) and in the early stages will cause the car not to start. Common with the VATS system. This wiring is close to your air bag deployment and the proper sequence for disarming it must be followed. also a steering wheel puller will be needed to remove the steering parts that will be in the way.

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easy enough to check. pull a spark plug and lean it against the exhaust manifold. if there is no spark and the engine has no problem turning over, vats system would be the second thing i would check. push the stem in on your schreader valve and make sure you are getting fuel pressure.

^^^^ first thing to check is to take a dry rag or your shirt and clean the little VATS chip built into your ignition key... if its dirty or wet it wont start your car...if the chip is old and worn it wont start your car.

problem is either in the guage cluster or the fuel sending unit inside the gas tank either one must be replaced most likely the tank sending unit take to a mechanic for proper diagnosal

passenger side near the fire wall. the smaller line coming out of the expansion valve. has a black cap on it.

It Would Have A Chain. Best To You

304 horsepower

try changing both the a & b shift solenoids

This is from a previous post, but it is 3/4's of the way you need to get to lock.Your answer will continue at #s with the word Added! BUT REMEMBER, YOUR CAR HAS "ARS-AIRBAGS!!!YOU WILL DEFINATELY NEED TO DISABLE AIRBAGS. BY REMOVING NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL & PLAESE WAIT A FEW MINUTES FOR SYSTEM TO STABILIZE.THEN WHEN YOU ARE WORKING IN/UNDER OR AROUND COLUMN, ("DO NOT" DISCONNECT,CUT,SLICE,PROBE WITH TESTER OR TIE INTO ANY OF THE AIRBAG SYSTEM WIRES,THEY ARE "YELLOW" AND SHOULD BE CLEARLY MARKED/TAGGED WITH A STICKER TELLING YOU WHAT THEY ARE)ANY DAMAGE TO THEM COULD MAKE THEM DEPLOY WHEN POWER IS SENT BACK THROUGH ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WITH REATTACHMENT OF NEGATIVE CABLE.

IF YOU FEEL THIS IS BEYOND YOUR SCOPE OF REPAIR, THEN HAVE A DEALER OR QUALIFIED GARAGE DO THIS PROCEEDURE FOR YOU!!!

BUT IT IS POSSIBLE FOR YOU TO DO, IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME, CHECK ALL WIRING, AND BE VERY CAREFUL.

YOU SHOULD NOT EVEN BEGIN TO THINK OF DOING THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE A "HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL" FOR GUIDENCE. THEY ARE VERY COMPLETE, ACCURATE, AND THERE ARE PICTURES OF IMPORTANT PARTS AND POINTS. < $16.00 IS WORTH THE TRIP.A trip to the Hospital Will Cost a Lot more ;-(

How to put Black Plastic piece back? & How to replace ingnition lock while in here.

"How does the black plastic piece that actuates the turn signal hi-lo beam it fit into place with tilt wheel on a 1989 Chevy Camaro?"

This could be a long answer! But hopefully your familiar with the workings of the steering column?

A lot of pieces are black plastic. If you have already taken it apart,then try to reverse the process to install! (ex: last piece out-will be first piece to go back in, and so on)

If your turn signal lever fell out, it is held in place by a screw! To access this screw, you will need some specialty tools,& Patience!!!

1) This is? an 1989 correct! Then you shouldn't have to deal with AirBag. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ v v v v v v v v v v v v v Added): Pretty much all Ignition locks are the same, its getting to them that is the hard part. 1990 and newer will have AirBags.

2) You will need a (steering wheel puller),(A special tool to remove steering column lock ring)(snap ring pliers),(2 small flat head screw drivers),(medium Phillips head screw driver),(a medium duty socket set)(locktite blue temporary thread sealant).(Added): For lock removal you will also need Hex Keys and/or Torx Bit drivers or sockets type and needle nose pliers.

No other tools should be needed, unless you plan on going past the turn signal cancel cam! DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THE TILT MECHANISM, WHICH IS PAST WHERE YOU WILL BE WORKING! CAUTION! CAUTION! DO NOT ATTEMP TO DISSASEMBLE THE TILT, IT HAS VERY STRONG SPRINGS UNDER PRESSURE, THAT COULD HURT YOU BAD IF THIS IS NOT DONE CORRECTLY. The tilt has nothing to do with turn and high/low beam switch!!! "NOW" to put turn signal lever back in.

1) To be safe and not blow fuses, disconnect negative battery cable. Added: (Or deploy AirBag System)^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

2) Make sure your wheels are facing straight ahead, and lock ignition/steering wheel and remove "KEY" Make sure steering wheel is locked! Added:^^This is Very Important with AirBag System^^^^^

3) Remove horn cover,and try not to bend any metal strips on steering wheel which are for the horn. Added: On 1996 you will remove Airbag Cover by removing screws from rear of steering wheel.

4) Remove steering wheel nut, then attach steering wheel puller and remove steering wheel from shaft.

5) You should now be looking at a Round black plastic cover! Remove this cover and remember how it was on. Be careful of the little button/spring sticking up, which is for the horn, remove it but don't lose it. Added: You will come face to face with the "Clock Spring", It is very important that you remember how the "Clock Spring" is in, before you pull it out and disconnect it? It must go back the same way, plus there are Tabs and Alignment marks that must match up. And a snap ring that holds airbag coil on.

6) NOW you will need your Specialty Tool to remove column lock plate. Make sure you ONLY DEPRESS LOCK PLATE enough to get Small Lock Ring off and out of groove. This can be frustrating if the "Original" lock ring is in there, because you will need the 2 small screw drivers to pry it out carefully. Note: Depressing lock plate further than needed to remove lock ring, CAN & WILL CRUSH SIGANL CAM & DESTROY IT!! Be careful!!!

7 Now you are right where you want to be! Looking at the white plactic cancelling ring on column, look to the left of it, and you should see a horizontal grove and a screw? (Note: There are 3 other screws that sit lower into holes! Don't remove them unless you plan on removing cancelling cam). If you don't see a screw in the hole in grove, then hopefully it came out with turn signal arm? But to be safe, you should check around a little inside where you are working to see if it fell in column? If it is in there and not removed, it could cause problems later. If it's in site, use a small magnet to retrieve it. Added: For lock removal, you need to remove hazard warning knob/screw, top of cancel cam assembly, turn signal lever, and then 3 turn signal screws and then turn signal switch. Under the turn signal you find the Key Buzzer switch and clip that you will remove with needle nose pliers. Then insert Key into ignition and leave in lock position, then remove Torx head screw that is holding lock in column, then carefully pull Key/lock together straight out! Pause, and diconnect Pass-Key Electrical Connector and remove retaining clip from housing cover. Install new Key/Lock unit together, and reverse the removal process.

Nothing Added beyond here, but continued reading is advised.

8 But assuming you have the screw or a new one, feed the small end of turn signal arm thru colar hole, and fit it into grove on plastic cam. Put some Blue locktite on screw, and attach signal arm. Make sure any writing on signal arm is facing you,(such as cruise control or wipers)then secure arm to cam.

9 Note: A rod runs down the steering column from the back of cam, to a switch for the High/Low beams. You should not have to deal with this unless you are having a problem with it! If it ain't broke, don't touch it!! All the connectors and switches on lower column and under dash become very brittle with age and break very easily, and some are very difficult to work on or replace.

10 Your half way done. Now reverse the process and remember, last part out will be first part in and so forth and so on. DON'T CRUSH SIGNAL CAM WHEN DEPRESSING LOCK PLATE TO ATTACH LOCK RING! MAKE SURE YOU PLACE LOCK PLATE FIRST, THEN LOCK RING ON SHAFT, AND THEN THE SPECIALTY TOOL. IF YOU FORGET LOCK RING AND GET PLATE DEPRESSED, THERES NO WAY TO GET LOCK RING ON, AND YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE AND START OVER FROM THAT POINT.

Not sure if this will help you, but good luck, and most of all, take your time and put everything back the same way, and secure tightly. "Patience is a Virtue" Do it right the first time, and you only do it once! Don't forget, it's not the driving, but the "NUT BEHIND THE WHEEL"

70 GTO JUDGE 72 Monte Carlo 87 Camaro 2.8L 91 Camaro 3.1L 96 Camaro Z28 LT1 96 Buick Regal Custom 3.8L

God I love "GM" Sometimes - LOL!

MANUALS ARE GREAT FOR ALL REPAIRS, BUT ESPECIALLY WITH THE AIRBAG AREA!!!!AND PROCEEDURES THAT JUST AREN'T AS SIMPLE AS THEY APPEAR TO BE :-)

Anyone have anything to add, that I might have left out, PLEASE DO, as this can be a complicated area for a Novice!

You have to get the VATS checked by a dealer service department or you can try for an open or short to ground in the VATS decoder module circuit

motor on flap or switch at peadle

The easiest way to find out the model of a 1980 Camaro is by the VIN # located on the drivers side of the dash, right next to the windshield. Unfortunately, Chevrolet only assigned 2 letters for models. The letter that you are looking for is the second one. If it is a z/28, rally sport, or sport model, it will be a "P". If it is a Berlinetta, it will read "S". You can also tell by which options it has.

Relays will have a diagram printed on the top of them, usually. There isn't really much to them.... the 30 post will be constantly powered and will power a circuit which goes to the 87A circuit. When power is applied to the 86 post, it pulls that energized switch from 87A to 87. If the relay fits and has the same plugs, it should be the same in that regard.. the only place you might hit a snag is if the amperage rating of one doesn't meet or exceeds the amperage rating required for the car.