Chevy Cavalier Z24

You'll need to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate. That's the only link between the two. Make sure to support the transmission before unbolting it from the engine.

The PCV valve on the KA24E 4-cylinder is located in front of the oil filter and above the alternator. It points to the rear of the engine. You will need only two tools; a stubby 19mm open end wrench and a pair of pliers to remove the hose clamp. I did it without removing anything else. Just reach around to the right of the oil filter. It took about 15 minutes. Here is a pic:

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/hawaiianhardbody/images/engine/PCVvalve.jpg

Every typical "V" style engine has a timing chain. the Chevy cavalier z24 has a 3.1 liter FI V6 engine. so yes it has a timing chain.

first question, which i will ask before anyone else posts the wrong answer to you like the other how-to sites i've been reading (mine needs to be replaced also), what model engine do you have. Because all the other sites are saying remove the belt and pulley and so on, and if your setup is the same as mine it does not have a pulley and belt, they are on the passenger side of engine and the pump is on the driver side top, attached to engine block. On mine it runs off the engine running, NOT belts, like so many other "mechanics" are posting, it looks rather simple, but i'ld rather know from a real mechanic first before i attempt it myself.

Smokingallowed say's..... You are correct in a certain angle...IF you were working on a 95-6 or before... The power steering pump was bolted onto the intake cam on the 2.4 DOHC engine, like '97 & some 96 grand am's & others. you can tell if ur engine applies...2.4 will be stamped on the coil pac cover.(top of engine)....I WANT TO WARN YOU...this engine is VERY different than the conventual 4cyl engine.....It is a "Quad 4" type engine....It has it's OWN way of being rebuilt....Sence, U just want to relpace the ster. pump....It is easy...Just put old rags underneath the power stering hoses connections.... It will be a sloppy,messy job if you dont....drain as much out as you can....(less to run out when you disconnect the hoses)...... You can pretty much see what needs to be done... There should not be any pressure because the pump is not spinning... Undo the 2 rubber lines(catch the mess).... Then remove the 2 bolts... You see them,,i'm sure.....pull it straight off....just keep a spare rag to clean-up any oil that comes out of the intake cam.....(very little) ......... Look at this critter....not so intemidating now...is it? there will be a little shaft sticking out(like an Allen wrench).... The hoses are not free so replace acording to your finances. ..But think that they are old and tired...... Goes back on reverse of removing.....When U refill the pump resivoir repair manules want U to raise front wheels off ground and turn sterring wheel all the way left and right WITHOUT hitting the stops.... (get's the air out of lines) I found out with ALL my z-cars...it dont matter if on ground or up in air...Just as long as you turn the wheels both ways...the air has no choice but to leave the system...check fluid and DONT over fill....Steering fluid expands when heated.....Good luck,,,but,rember...to rebuild this engine,you will need to do alot of homework

Look in the lever area. Sounds like something came off/broke off the lever arm.

While the system is open, you should flush the ac system, replace the accumulator/drier, the orifice tube, and any O-rings that are involved. Put the system under vacuum at least an hour, watch gauges when vac pump is removed to see if the system is holding, then add 1 can,check for any leak, then add the second can check for leaks again.... The system should end up with eight oz. of PAG 46 or PAG 100 into the compressor, it is your choice.(they are both just fine)... Install 1.5 lbs. of r134a (that is 24 oz.)-(2-12 oz cans)

a digital cluster is the same as a circuit board. you need to replace that borad

If you just wanted to swap it with another,about 10 mins.That little triangle piece where your mirror switch is unscrew the Phillips head screw,position it out of the way.Remove the foam insulation there will be three aluminum nuts holding the mirror on the door.Careful not to drop them down inside the door.

Your highbeam is dead, which means your DRL's cannot funtion. Your DRL's run off of your highbeams at about 1/2 the voltage...

Pull the hose and make sure that the heater core connection is in good condition. It needs to be clean and pretty round. If the hose has quite a bit of deposits or is brittle around the inside, you may want to replace it. The hose needs to be quite flexible to make a good seal. If it's more than a few years old you might want to replace it anyway

open rear trunk...remove trunk interior closeout pieces and get access to forward part of trunk...motor is positioned just behind rear seat in trunk with four anti-vibration posts, be careful not to rip them. Disconnect hydraulic lines and elec conn and remove motor. Be careful hydraulic fluid will leak from motor..better off buying new one if yours is bad.

The first thing you want to do is suspend the front end, drain the transmission, remove the wheels, brake assembly, steering knuckle "DONT TURN IT OR WHEN YOU PUT BACK ON ALLIGNMENT WILL BE OFF," Carefully remove the cvs from the transmission support the engine with a jack, unbolt the transmission mounts and bell to engine bolts. remove shift cables and wiring then carefully lower the trans to the ground and then you have access to the clutch. Reinstallation is reverse remember to torque the bolts to manufacturers specs.

no it would not fit it would either be to big or to small but it will not fit on a different model

You may need to check your idle air control valve on the tbi or check for
vac leaks

Caution:On models equipped with Delco-Loc 2 or Theftlock audio systems make sure you have activation code * Disconnect the negative battery cable * Drain the cooling system * Disable the airbag system.Disconnect the forward discriminating sensor harness from the front fenderwell.It may be necessary to remove the hood latch mechanism in conjunction with the airbag sensor and secure them together and out of the way during the radiator removal * Remove the cooling fan assembly * Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses from the radiator then disconnect the coolant recovery hoses at the radiator neck * Remove the automatic transaxle cooler lines if equipped from the left tank of the radiator * Remove the hood latch support from the upper tie bar on the front of the engine compartment * Remove the right and left headlight assemblies from the vehicle * Remove the condensar mounting bolts from the radiator assembly * Remove the tie bar (crossbeam) from the engine compartment * The radiator can be removed from the top with some wiggling to clear various components

It wont turn off. It stays on just to let you know that your car isn't losing traction.

On these 3rd generation z24's I have come across problems with the horn honking when you turn the wheel either left or right...mainly left. But if you remove the air bag on the steering column you will find that the little plastic thing that sticks up with a wire and spring attached,(push in and twist to remove)it will be broken and is shorting out and causing the horn to honk. But with your clicking problem it sounds like the horn may be bad or stuck.With jumper wires connect it strait to the battery and see if it goes off,if it does reconnect it and see if it was just stuck.Also check the fuse to the cig lighter. they both run thru that fuse. Other than that it will be the horn relay,a bad ground at the horn switch, or in the wiring.

May be throttle plate stuck--with engine off try to "free" up with screwdriver

Here is a GREAT "write-up" about this....http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2485/rebuilding_the_gm_quad_4.aspx

That link is a "MUST READ" if you want to know what changes have been made under hood...

Check the brake switch at the pedal.

Go to WWW.crutchfield.com and enter your info, it will tell you and for free

manual transmissions don't have transmission oil !!!

it depends on the shop labor rate but it calls for 8.8 hours to do it depends on the shop labor rate but it calls for 8.8 hours to do

you have to go from under the car on the drivers side. there is a dip stick/fill hole