Chevy Metro

My owners manual doesn't list the fuel capacity, but figure my '98 holds around 8 gallons. I've never got it to hold 10, and 6 never fills it.

Do NOT use a helicoil. A good repair shop or machine shop will have the tools to install an insert which becomes a permanent repair. A helicoil will come out when the spark plug is removed and cause further damage to the cylinder head.

Inside the black air filter box that connects to your intake has 4 clamps holding it down remove replace and done=)

it is located on the head

what year? fuel inj.?carb.? if it's fuel inj. it's 40-45 lbs. if it's got a carb. it's 7-14lbs

You replace it. These multi function switches are notorious for wearing out prematurely. Dealership price is $548. Napa quoted me $429 but I pleaded with him for a more affordable price and he said he would do $339.95. Ultimately I went with an online part supplier rockauto. Com and I paid $135 plus $9 shipping. It looks just like oem and works just fine. The install itself requires the removal of the steering column cover. Don't be scared, it's far easier than it looks and sounds. You'll need a torxs bit set to remove this plastic scroud. Once you are in there you only need to unscrew the switch, unplug its connectors and feed the wiring harnes out of the column. Then reverse the procedure to put the new one in. Feeding the wiring harness back in will be the biggest pain in the butt. Everything else is a cake walk. Good luck my friend!

Most '95 metros do not have one, if it does It's below the crank gear on the front of the engine, oil pan area, it is a two conductor connector

Disconnect any vacuum hoses from the distributor and plug them. Then you loosen the distributor hold down screws and turn it clockwise to advance the timing or counter clockwise to retard it. Tighten the hold downs, reconnect the vacuum lines and away you go.

The head, or top part of the motor, must be removed to replace valve seals. After the head is removed take it to a machine shop and they will mill the head to make sure it is flat and also grind down the valves and replace the valve seals.

that must be some metro to have a big block

The alternator is basically the tensioner on a three cylinder Metro. The bolt that holds the alternator tight to its adjustment bracket must be loosened. You may need to pry on the alternator to slide it so the belt will be loose enough to remove. After you have removed the old belt and put the new one in the correct way, the alternator will definitely need to be pried on to tighten belt, then tighten bolt on adjuster. Just be careful what you pry on.

check your crank gear it is worn out replace the gear and key

Maybe on front bottom of engine behind radiator Follow + battery cable

I have a 99 Chevy Metro, and have been told by my dealership that the fuel filter is located DEEP inside the engine and only needs to be replaced at 100,000 miles (which sounds questionable). Replacing it would cost a bundle in labour charges due to the time needed to get to it. Hope this helps a bit. My metor (1999) has 107,000 miles and i am just now changing the fuel filter. i left an answer on a previous question. it is on top of the gas tank and i just drop the tank and pull the fuel pump out and change the filter. it is a little time consuming to get the tank down but all in all, it is not that bad to do yourself. I have a 2002 Chevy Metro and at the parts store when you look up the fuel filter it is listed as an unserviceable part meaning it does not need to be changed. I dont like this idea either so I asked a mechanic and he said I could get to it by dropping the tank but its not really necessary at such a low mileage.

Its under the dash, driver side, on the left. There should be a white plastic cover over it showing the fuse diagram on it. It's shaped like kind of like an L

*note: As it is unknown which light is out, and since it is recommended to replace both lights, directions for both the passanger and driver side lights are provided. After purchasing two 9007 bulb's from your local autoparts store and popping the hood... 1) Gain access to the driver side plug and bulb on the back-side of the headlamp by removing the battery. This is done by unscrewing the bolt on the left side of the base of the battery which clamps down a metal plate that holds it in place. After removing the bolt and plate, you should have enough room by simply lifting and moving the battery backward, without unplugging it. I did. 2) Gain access to the driver side plug and bulb by removing the air-filter. Don't forget to remove the bolt found further down the air shaft that helps hold it in place. Remove the bold will allow you to unclip the air-filter casing and slide it out of its hooks on the bottom. 3) Remove the plug and bulb on the back-side of each headlamp by twisting the retaining ring (counter-clockwise when faceing it from the inside of the hood). You will then be able to twist and pull out the plug and bulb from the headlamp assembly. 4) Remove the bulb from the plug by pushing down the clip that holds it in place while pulling the bulb out. Push the new bulb into the plug until you hear the clip snap it into place. Turn on the headlights after each replacement to make sure it works before you finish the job. 5) Twist the plug assembly and ring back into place (this may take a bit of fiddling as it is snug and is kinda' like a puzzle), replace the air-filter and battery, and enjoy your new and functioning headlights!

There are two fuse boxes located on the Rover Metro. One fuse box is located on the passenger side of the vehicle under the dash. The second fuse box is located under the hood.

P195/70r14

Move the drivers seat all the way back. Lay upside down, look between steering column and drivers side wheel well. The plastic cover has a list of fuse sizes and functions.

If I'm not mistaken you have to get underneath to change it. Should be a cap underneath it.

.039 to .045-----i preffered .041 it seemed to make the engine shake less. but its hard to get them to run nice and smooth. your engine might be different , i did several gap ranges . .041 worked for me, ran fairly smooth.

1.jack up the car on jack stands to get enough clearance to get under it.

2.The transmission pan has a drain plug you cant take off to drain the fluid into an oil pan.

3.Remove bolts that hold the pan on to the transmission.leave

2 side bolts on to hold the pan in place since there will be some fluid still in the pan. let fluid drain out.Then

take off the 2 bolts you left on and pull the pan off.There

will be some fluid in the pan so be careful.

4.The filter is held on by a few bolts. be careful when you get them off because fluid will come out.

5.Bolt on new filter.

6.Remove old gasket from pan ,clean off magnet that sits inside of pan and clean pan off.

7.Place new gasket on pan. put bolts threw holes on the pan to help hold gasket in place.Bolt

pan back on,

torque to 8 ft-lbs

center of valve cover at rear of motor

i run a 1991 geo metro, which i think you are referring to... til around 259,000 miles. so yeah, pretty good car.