Chevy Metro

remove the ac belt(if equiped) and alternator belt. remove timing belt cover,the timing belt tensioner has a nut that comes through the center of the cover,sometimes the whole stud comes out just put some loctite on the stud when you reinstall it,remove the old belt and replace it make sure both indicators are lined up,turn the engine by hand two turns recheck your marks to besure they all line up and tighten tensioner, also check the idler bearings while its apart,this is a good time to do the water pump also i have had these waterpumps go 200k but better to be safe

goto Best Buy and buy a wire harness and an install face plate. Next just match the colors on the wire harness with the new deck, and plug the wire harness into the one the old deck was on. Its too easy.

Air Conditioning/Refrigeration service, be it auto, residential, commercial, or industrial has become an expensive and tricky proposition as the Montreal Protocol restrictions on refrigerant manufacture, use, and recovery take effect worldwide. Any auto a/c system that needs refrigerant added, is assumed to have a leak, and in some cases will require expensive repair rather than a simple top-off of refrigerant gas, in some cases however, one can add or charge in a small amount that took maybe a year or so to leak out, (microscopic hose leaks possibly etc.) but adding gas to a leaky system is usually a waste of time and it will leak out in a short time anyway, putting the expensive a/c compressor at risk due to overheat and a lack of lubrication. Having said all that, a top-off of refrigerant for the 2001 metro, which I also own, can be done by purchasing a R-134a refrigerant recharge kit (from your auto supply) with an attached hose and fitting designed to fit the suction line access valve, and then carefully following the directions supplied (you must use extreme caution and be technically competent to perform this task to avoid a dangerous overcharge, or bursting of the can which can cause great bodily injury). Also keep in mind that the only accurate way to charge an auto a/c system is to safely and legally recover and evacuate all the existing gas from the system, then hopefully after a successful leak repair, carefully weigh-in an the exact amount listed on the a/c factory specification label placed under the hood by the factory to assist the service technician, which, again may leak-out if the needed repair is not performed properly. I had to charge my system this warm Spring already, with approx 12OZ, so I will be pulling out my trusty H-10 detector and chasing another of the zillion leaks I've chased atop walk-in's, in house attics, all over super markets, in floors, etc, etc. A/C&R is not the cheap luxury we use to enjoy since someone discovered that the CFC's in the old refrigerants has all but destroyed our world............LOL : ) . Hope that helps to convince you to buy a new car, or hand the headache over to a qualified repair facility. Just watch your wallet, these qualified repair facilities are not "FREON PARTS & LABOR" by any means. GOOD LUCK! JLeeSki in So. Ca.

The transmission fill plug is a square-drive plug located vertically on the driver's side of the transmission, just to the rear of the right-side halfshaft. The transmission should take 2.5 quarts or until the fluid is to the bottom of the fill hole.

should be on the side of the transmission..You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library with diagnostics and specs -- make copies of the right sections as they are usually only available in the REFERENCE section...good luck :).

If when you say fix you mean repair the one you have then No. It is a sealed unit and can not be repaired. If when you say fix you mean repair the one you have then No. It is a sealed unit and can not be repaired.

There are a couple of automotive A/C leak detection methods; sometimes you can find the leak by looking for oil and dirt residue on connections, hoses or on the compressor. Some shops like to charge the system up with R134a, use an electronic leak detector to locate the leak and if that doesn't pinpoint it, add a florescent dye to the system which you can look for with a UV/black light when it leaks out. I personally would pull a vacuum, add about 4oz of R-22, pressure the system up with 200 PSI of dry nitrogen, then go over the hoses and external components with a soapy water solution, then check the evaporator and shaft seal on the compressor with an electronic leak detector. I always find my leak!

motor oil

mine has 325000 miles on it. I'm the original owner 1.0 litre 3 cyl still runs good. pretty

sure there are lots of them out there with this kind of odometer reading.

underneath the steering wheel there is a cover remove it and there is your fuse panel. it is a tight fit though

possibilities: axle nut undertorqued. lugnuts loose. bad inner or outer tie rods. bad lower ball joint. loose strut.

The 2001 uses a cam poition sensor, to monitor and adjust timing accordingly. The sensor is right on top of the engine, about dead center, and just slightly to the left. It has a single 10mm bolt holding it in. It has a wire harness attached to it too.

Here is a picture to help you find it. It is item #3 in the diagram.

http://i37.tinypic.com/ay3h3b.jpg

There should be a mark on your crankshaft pulley and several marks on the lower timing cover. You may have to clean them off in order to see them.

you gotta take the old one out first

It is that black can looking thing on the left front of the engine comparrment. It has vacuum and eletrical lines.

how do you replace 1997 alternator belt

The same as with most other cars except they don't just slide off theres 2 Phillips screws holding it on

Well the problem is that they do not have fan belts. You were looking at the wrong car.

ebay my man. And Good luck finding one too... there arent a whole lot of aftermarket parts for metros unfortunately.

If it's like the 1997, you just have to discontinue the negative cable from the battery.

This code is generic and is the same on all vehicles. P0420 = Catalyst System Efficiency Below ThresholdCatalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. This means that the secondary O2 sensor detects that the catalytic converter isn't working as efficiently as it should. This engine code can be triggered by any one of the following:

1.) The catalyst in the catalytic converter is cracked, clogged, or otherwise damaged.

2.) The secondary O2 sensor is malfunctioning.

3.) There is an exhaust leak.

4.) The computer unit is faulty

It is not adjustable.

They have internal fuel filters..in the gas tank I believe. You pretty much have to take them to a mechanic

1-3-2 look at top top #1 counter clock 1-3-2 1-3-2 look at top top #1 counter clock 1-3-2