Chevy Metro

The recommended service is to inspect it at 60,000 miles, replace it at 100,000 miles. Considering that you drive very little, I would recommend you just replace it at 60,000 miles. The belt will be very old at that time and age is a factor. Disregard this if you mis-spoke on the mileage and meant 65,000 miles, which I suspect is the case. In that case use the recommended service interval.

Remove the console. Remove the ashtray/radio trim plate. Remove the radio. Remove the HVAC control knobs(they pull straight off)for the heater, air, fan speed, A/C button can stay. Pop the HVAC control panel face, pry or pull it forward. Suspend control panel face or let it hang. Disconnecting the control unit lamp makes this somewhat easier. Push the HVAC control unit back, lower it to the radio slot, turn it clockwise to make switch accessible. The switch is held in place by two ears on the switch and two clamps on the control unit body. Pull the clamps away from the ears only far enough to release switch while prying switch from control unit body. Any more than that will compromise the clamps' ability to hold the new switch. Do not pull the clamps too far away from the ears or they may not have enough memory to re-clamp. Remove switch, take care to get all the pieces, springs, roller pins, and the lever w/contact hat(3contact bumps)disconnect from wire plug. Inspect, clean, and replace worn parts or entire switch(the moving parts are all part of the lever). Use contact lube to keep pins, springs, in place. Replace in reverse order. If you pulled the clamps too far and they won't keep the switch together, there are two slots beneath the clamps that a small zip tie can be threaded through in order to tie the switch in place. I used a couple loops of mechanic's wire.

Usually have to drop the fuel tank unless there is an access hole in the trunk area to service it

The fuel filter on a 2001 Chevy Metro LSI is located along the vehicle's frame, just beyond the fuel tank. It is positioned inline to prevent contaminants from reaching the engine and allow for easy replacement.

First you have to disconnect the power from the battery. Then you remove the belt,and all electrical connections. Then you take out the bolts holding it on the brackets and bring it out from under the car. - Disconnect Battery

- Remove Air filter intake components.

- Remove fuel hose to carb (maybe)

- Remove 12mm upper alternator mount bolt

- Dissconnect 10mm Alternator positive connection.

- Dissconnect Alternator connector plug.

- Remove 2*12mm lower alternator mount bolts.

- Remove 2*10mm lower alternator shield bolts.

- Remove 2*14mm exhaust pipe to manifold bolts.

-Wiggle the old alternator out and the new in...trust, it works

IF YOU INTENDED TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR BELT...

- Slacken the underside 10mm main belt tension pulley to allow alternator belt R&R.

transmission goes into gear but wont hardly move

Trouble code P1510 means: Back-Up Power Supply

For a 1.0 litre and manual tranny it's 55 ft.lbs

Using the diagnostic tool that reads the engine codes, clear out the codes and try reading it again. I had the same problem on my 97 geo metro. If the answer above didn't help, replace the O2 sensors, and retry the above answer.

The 1999 Chevy Geo Metro 1.0 liter engine PCV valve can be found on top of the engine. The PCV valve will be behind the air cleaner housing.

It is inside of the transmission.

there is a plug on the side of the transmission towards the drivers side of the car,a 3/8 ratchet will fit into the plug, the drain plug and fill plug are different,the drain plus has a magnet in the middle of it. it will hold just under three quarts of gear oil,i would only use synthetic to protect the transmission

There really is no incentive for the automotive companies to either design or produce high mpg vehicles. Even though there are government mandates for mileage on U.S. cars, this is a misnomer. The law more or less states a manufacturer must meet mileage standards as an average of all cars produced. And, there are plenty of ways to maximize the driving tests for a vehicle, many of questionable/ethical and borderline legal. Also, often the government allows the auto manufacturer to perform their own testing and simply accepts the data, with little to absolutely no oversight.

Also, vehicles that get high mpg also tend to be smaller, lower cost vehicles, such as the Metro, that have very little profit margin when selling. As an example, from an automotive engineer I inquired to regarding this very topic, the automotive company makes about $4000 profit in the sale of a full size pickup, but only $600 on a small Metro type vehicle. They produce them only to meet the government standard mentioned above, not for real profit making.

Even though the $140+ price per barrel oil costs of 2008 are over for now at least, the three decades of producing low mpg vehicles and marketing heavily to the American consumer to buy and buy into the full size pickup and SUV vehicles concept, this is ultimately short sited ideology. Without innovation and design pushing towards more efficient vehicles and more realistic vehicle usage, the consumption of oil and gas continues to prove to be a weakness to the U.S. economy and safety. Cases in point, there is no need to have an SUV to drive in cities and suburbs, to and from work or running errands on paved and maintained roads. And somehow, not many years ago, we somehow managed to pack a family of five into a mid-size vehicle, and be able to drive about our daily lives without all being killed because we didn't have eight tons of steel surrounding us, contrary to what marketing has spent so many years convincing us otherwise.

Disclaimer: I do not belong to any environmental groups, have never chained myself to a tree, or held a protest sign outside a power plant. I do, however, recycle my paper/plastics/metal in my home, and drive a Metro with 150,000+ miles on it, still getting 40+ mpg.

Have vehicle scanned to determine problem and have codes cleared

Yes it is. Any Metro transmission made after the year 1994 will fit in your 98 Metro.

It holds 1.32 lbs (or 21 oz) of 134a Refrigerant - when totally empty. The Denso A/C compressor holds 3 oz of PAG oil when drained off the car.

Freon was the Dupont name for old Freon 12 (phased out back in 1982) and that refrigerant requires a license to buy today. So most people retro fit those older pre 1982 cars to run the new 134a.

Driver side of the engine compartment. Trace the fat hose from the top of the radiator to the engine block. It's under the housing that the hose attaches to.

There are many factors and way to increase the MPG in your Metro. Tire pressure, timing, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter. I also found this place to be very helpful http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=17057

Check your Transmission Range Senson, it should have coded: or neutral senson

Yes, in fact it does. It is a hall-effect sensor which consists of a reluctor wheel and a pick-up coil inside the distributor. The ECM uses this sensor to decide when and how much to open the injector and also to adjusting timing/dwell electronically. -MechanicMatt

I have a 1999 Chevy metro and I am in the process of replacing the fuel filter right now. You have to drop the gas tank and pull out the fuel pump (large circular part) and you will find the filter at the bottom of the pump. be sure you get the correct filter cuz I was sold the incorrect one. It shoud have a virtually flat elbow connection tube, not elevated like the one I bought.

how do you check transmission fluid level in a 2001 chevy metro

The ignition timing for a 1989 Geo Metro 1.0L engine is 12 degrees BTDC. (Note, first production year for the Geo Metro was 1989 rather than 1988). In 1988 Chevy did produce the Sprint model ... in which case the timing would be as follows: With 2bbl carb: 6 degrees BTDC for automatic transmission models; 10 degrees BTDC for manual trans models. With fuel injection: 12 degrees BTDC Additional info: Distributor rotation is counter-clockwise; firing order is 1-3-2

Some model has it, some doesn't, on the left there should be a FUILD RESERVOR in Yellow which indicate the car has power steering. If there is none, then it doesn't. Most 4 door Metro 4 cylinder has power steering but not the hatch version. I have seen some 4 door has no power steering.

Is it really a Chevy first off? And what year was it made? 4 cylinder would be worth more then 3 cylinder unless you really push the mpg bug. Stick-shift is also worth more if you push that, but otherwise most people only want an automatic.

If it's in good shape and has no problems it should easily take $1600.

I own a 1995 Geo Metro lsi, 4 cylinder, 3 speed automatic. I would sell mine for $2200 because mine has nearly everything replaced and it's recently had a tune-up, all the rust has been patch up, and I threw new speakers in to boot.