Chevy Nova

tapered end toward the back

In the alternator

Contact companies such as Year One or Classic Industies for what is known as an "option delete panel".They are for just that,removing the A/C box without leaving a big hole in the firewall.

Depends on whether it's a 6-cyl or V8, and if it's a manual or automatic

Most of them had 350 turbohydramatic.

They Should fit! I Have a 1974 Nova and they bolt right on! May have to lift by adding knuckles to the springs just to add 1inch for clearance!

the nova never had a serpentine belt in 1976, it had 2 belts on it unless it had air conditioning and then it had 3 belts.

No, you just have to have a small hand to get in back of the speedometer.

look on the drivers side door at the specs decal and it will tell you.

I think you can fit a 275/60R15...... but please tell me if I'm wrong!

I had the same question. Seems it does not have a PCV valve.

YES, Some did and some didn't.

I just received a 350 turbo 6" tailshaft, Shipping weight was 130 lbs. That's with no fluid or converter.

you wield the rear doors shut, shave the door handles, bond-0 the door jam so its flush, put a bench seat in from a two door so it opens to get people in the back or sum new car seats drill and bolt in with lock washers please for safety even wield if have someone u know, it wont look like a tradationly 2door but it be a hell of a start the new age seats move forward n back ward for people to get in,, or turn the back for a sick music system or gut it and carpet it like a street rod

u can always chop the front 2inch to customized it

but when u start fabiercating it cost cash man, tub the rear end out with the rear door done and chop top a custom rod, but just want a two door sell this and get the two door, once u start cant go back,,,,,, carb spacer plastic though..improves horse power

Gasser race care, or simply "gassers," were a class of 1/4-mile drag racers that ran on gasoline as opposed to alcohol or other more exotic fuel such as nitro-methane. The classes for these "gassers" were many and, in the '60's when they were extremely popular, the most well-remembered body style being the '33, '40 or '41 Willys coupe. Bench-engineering in those days leaned toward power more than aerodynamics and, since these cars typically ran between 10-second and 16-second quarter mile times, the nose of the vehicle was raised up to promote "weight transfer" to the rear tires on launch. Today, with much faster times, the nose is typically lowered to promote down-force at very high speeds. Classes were determined by weight to (engine) cubic inch ratio and everything from a supercharged Willys coupe to the family sedan could be raced in the "gas" classes. The gassers died out in the early '70's when bracket racing became popular. Bracket racing pits unlike vehicles against one another with a "handicapped" starting system to equalize the race and allow for more racing to occur. In the old days, the racer would stretch the rules of his class in building his car to the max and race "heads up" with another racer who thought he could find a better way within the "rules." Those were the days. I own an ex-racer gasser. It's a replica 1927 Ford roadster, full-fendered, not the "T-bucket" (fenderless) that many street-rodders build. My car raced in the '60's and was owned by Willie Johnson, a rare African-American drag racer. The car was powered by a 1957 Corvette motor, 283 cubic inch displacement. It was supercharged with fuel injection and, near the end of its career, raced in the AA/G ("A" for weight-to-displacement, "A" for supercharged and "G" for "Gas" class). With a mere 100-inch wheelbase, it was a wild ride.

You can get a filter kit from most auto supply stores. Drop the pan, drain the fluid, (this is a good time to add a drain plug kit) clean the pan, change the filter, reinstall the pan with new gasket, refill.

Two things you should look at first....

1. If the engine components haven't been updated much or at all....get an HEI distributor and ditch the points and condensers.

2. Many Novas from that time had drum brakes on the FRONT as well as the back...switch the front (at least) to disc! You can either get the conversion kit from places like Jegs, or if you're like me and don't have $600-$800 to spend, go to the junkyard and find a later model car (Impala, Monte Carlo, Camaro, the other bigger GM cars are fine, too) that has that stuff intact to scavenge...that's what I plan to do...BE SURE TO GET THE SPINDLES AND BOOSTER OFF THE DONOR CAR AS WELL!

!

Proud owner of a 73 Hatchback!

Try lubricating lock mechanism

Try adjusting mechansim

Replace locking mechanism

30 degrees

first determine if the manufactuer of the engine requires a tourque setting and sequence for the engine in question. If so get your hands on a tourque wrench! Next remove antyhing above and in the way of the covers ie: vacum lines, spark plug wires, brackets ect. Radiator hoses that are not too old and cracked can be left on and flexed out of the way. Next remove the bolts that hold the covers on and firmly pull the cover off. If the old seal was glued or made of cork/fiber use a scraper to remove all of the glue and bits of seal that are stuck to the covers do the same for the same on the head flange if an debris remain stuck to it be carfull not to let anything fall into the engine. if it's really bad and you need to scrape stuff rags into the openings. Next clean both surfaces that contact the seal free of any oil and grease. dish soap and water for the first pass and finish off with acetone( you'll want to wear glove for this). I highly recomend a silicone seal as this requires no glue but if your stuck with a cork one use a small bead of gasket sealer on the flange. If you have a sliicone gasket install it on the cover side you may have to stretch it slightly.finally replace bolts and snug them down ( or if required by manufacture tourqe to specified foot pounds and follow sequence). replace all brackets wires and or hoses in reverse order they came off ......that's about it.

The above answer is way out in left field. The question referred to Valve Seals. They are the seals that go on the valve stem to prevent oil from fouling the spark plugs. It would be best to purchase a Haynes Manual from most parts stores.

get a rebuild kit for your model carb and follow the directions.

put a pry bar behind it (between it and the trans) and give it a sharp push, the axle is held in by a circlip, it will pop right out, and then right back in again, again, with a sharp push in.

gasoline

about 15 lbs.

In stock form it was 130-145 net horsepower @ 3200-3800rpm depending on the year. That's with a 2bbl carb and the stock 2.25" single exhaust.

You can have a locksmith do this for you. These professionals know how to make a key for any key slot.