Dodge Dynasty

First you have to remove 1/4" nut screws in the front of the bottom part of seat and remove. Then on the back part of seat there will be 2 1/2" (I think) bolts that also fasten the seat belts which will need removed. once you have done that push up on back part of seat and pull towards you. That's all you need to do.

In the 1990 model built in 1989 it is in the glove box. It is behind a cover wich is in plain view (this cover tells you what all the fuses are for). If not there try under the dash on the driver's side.

you should be getting at least 48 pnds of pressure that's what the specs are for that engine

It's on the front driver's side of the transmission, near the bottom. There are other sensors there, so get the replacement first and match the connectors. They are all slightly different, only the correct one will fit.

A 1991 dodge dynasty speedometer bouncing could be a sticking speedometer cable, or a bad drive gear. Check the cable first, and lubricate it to see if the problem stops.

Its going to be on the left side of the transaxle

It is pretty vague to say something like, "will a V8 fit in...", and it's simply unanswerable, just because that's only the number of cylinders and their configuration, it doesn't tell you how big it is. If you asked, "Will a Chrysler 340 V8 fit in a Dodge Dynasty," I would have to say that it would with modification. You'll have to weld together your own engine mounts by cutting Dynasty mounts in half for any Dynasty regardless of what engine it goes to, cutting 340 V8 mounts in half regardless of what vehicle they go to, and welding them together. You'll have to get some piping , mufflers, and aq catalytic converter to make your own exhaust system, too. Once you do that, make something to mount the exhaust pipes to the bottom of the car and put it all together. I almost forgot, you'll have to get a transmission that'll fit the 340 and the car, get a drive shaft that fits, a front suspension that fits (since a Dynasty would be front wheel drive), and a rear differential that fits. That's all you'll need, but I'd recommend that you, considering you have time on your hands and the proper tools and will power, remove the body of the car and do it all on the bare chassis; it's a lot less of a pain. That's it.

Balancing of tire/rim.

Body control modual pass. Side kick panel replaced mine good to go

Apparently this is somewhat common. It happened to me and I haven't fixed it yet. You could buy another cluster from a junkyard and hope the mileage matches approximately so you can just stick the whole thing in, or you could try to harvest the little motor from the junker cluster and solder it onto your cluster.

right next to the turn signal and such. You have to remove the glove compartment all the way over to the ash tray that whole assembly comes out look up where the glove compartment used to be. You will see the relays use your owners manual it will point you to the flasher relay. If your turn signal is not flashing, replacing the flasher or relay might not fix it. Especially if one side flashes and the other doesn't, there is probably a short or corroded wire somewhere in the circuit. Refer to a wiring diagram to test with a test light.

The 1988 Dodge Dynasty coolant fan sensor is located a few inches above the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing can be found on the front of the engine.

Dodge doesn't use inertia switches.

according to my chiltons labor guide it calls for 1.6 hours

You have a bolt in the center of the belt tensioner. Loosen that bolt. Then you have a bolt on top of the tensioner turn it I think counter clockwise (It doesn't get loose go the other way). Pull belt off and put on new belt and tight up the bolt on top of the belt tensioner so belt is tight and tighten if the center screw.

I believe the tires on mine are 19'' if I'm not mistaken.

----

The factory size (from Tirerack.com) is P195/75-14. There were also optional 15" sizes.

I have since discovered the answer:

Each marker light lens/reflector assembly features a single threaded stud that protrudes into the engine compartment. Open the hood and reach into the area behind the center of the lens/reflector assembly. The length of the stud may require the use of a deep 10mm socket (can be driven with a 6 inch extension and a ratchet). Once the nut is removed from the stud you can pull the assembly far enough from the car's body to remove the lamp socket from the reflector (twist ccw 1/4 turn). I had to clean the contacts in one socket with a split emory board.

You might find it convenient to remove the battery when servicing the marker light on the driver's side (LH drive).

One of those head mounted LED lights is quite useful when locating the mounting stud.

press your ebrake one or two clicks and leave it on

Simply pull the panel off that's under the steering wheel and pull the fuses out when the car is off, and if the metal piece is snapped inside the fuse then you need to replace the fuse.

If only one side isn't working and is flashing fast, it's a bulb. If neither side is working first check the fuse located behind the glove box door on the left side behind the fuse box door. The door has a diagram showing which fuse is for what accessory.

If it's not a fuse you will have to drop the dash down from the glove box over to the ashtray. (It's not hard.) Then right above the fuse block follow the red wires to the relay block. Reach above and toward the back of the car and then feel downwards. The relays are installed so they are not visible. The owner's manual says you can "push the block up and off" and drop the whole block down for easier access. My relay was original and yellow. Replaced the wrong one first but when the emergency flashers quit working it was easy to figure out. I hope this saves someone the hours of frustration I went through thinking the relays were pushed in front to back or upwards and I could see them.

If neither of these is the problem you may have to replace the turn signal/wiper switch on the steering column. Again, not difficult, but expensive and aggravating. First you need a torx/star screwdriver because the holes for the screws underneath the bottom part of the cowling are too deep and narrow for a bit with a driver handle. Then you need a tamper-proof star bit because the screws holding the switch on have the pins in the middle (I replaced mine with phillips-head when I found this switch wasn't my problem).

If none of these are your problem you have a short and will have to do continuity checks on the wiring and someone else will have to help with that.

I have a '91 Dynasty 3.3 and mine did the same thing. After changing the map sensor, fuel pressure regulator and a couple others I went to a bone yard picked up a SMEC (which I was advised that it was probaly the colpit) I pluged it in and it's been running since. Knock on wood..these dam Dynasty's have something in the SMEC that when it thinks it is being stolen it will automaticly cut of the fuel supply. Good luck

By "start but no idle" I assume you mean the engine starts up for a second or two and then dies, as opposed to running fine except at idle. I have an 89 Dynasty 3.0 which did a similar thing. It would start and run for maybe 3 seconds and then die, and the problem was worse when it was hot. long story short, after several mis-diagnosis from several shops including the local dealership, the problem turned out to be the fuel pump which is located in the tank. After paying $75 for the pump at NAPA and $100 labor, I was back on the road running fine.

Open the glove box door and remove a cover on the left side to access.

Open the glove box door and remove a cover on the left side to access.

Which pulley are you referring to. There is 5 or 6 on that car.

They aren't even on the same harness. You likely have two unrelated problems. You can get a wiring diagram for the blower motor by typing in "1992 Dodge Dynasty blower motor" on most browsers. Only thing that can take out unrelated items is a bad ground and in this case that seems highly unlikely.