Dodge Intrepid

A Ethylene glycol antifreeze coolant should be used (Mopar coolant) and mixed with 50/50 with distilled water. Another coolant that is pretty good is the Zerex G-05 antifreeze (approved by Daimler-Chrysler).

The best way that I have found to remove the starter is to purchase or go to your local library and check out a copy of the Haines manual. I have used it to remove alternator, ECM, and the instrument cluster.

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this sounds like a problem i had on my 2000 you need to look into having the shifting cable replaced. some of the late 90 models have had a recall on the shifter and if you are in that recall, you can go to a dodge dealer and they replace it for free, that was my case.

i found some prices around 640.00 but i have one off a 98 dodge intrepid for sale 450.00 and texaslivin05@hotmail.com

After checking the code, and repairing the cause, you clear the code with a scan tool.

The engine computer is also the voltage regulator.

Your best bet would be to purchase a Haynes manual. I replaced the water pump on a 95 and did the timing belt with it. Make sure you read the steps and understand before doing the work.

This is advice not from a professional---just a little more experienced novice like you.Hopefully you are doing some pre-maintenance and not repair. On pre-maintenance-- This isn't an easiy job--tight space. I would loosen up the motor mount and carefully jack up the engine. You might have to unbolt the mount that connects the drive train to the engine block. Listen to not cause any damage to componets. Taking the plastic covers off is hard. The valve cover needs to be removed. The alternator belt and the airpump /air-conditioner pump belt need to be removed(gets them out of you way. Carefully mark the positions of the cams with the belt that needs to be replaced so you can make the same marks on the new belt. Mark the direction the belt being removed goes. Why that matters I don't know. If it were me--I would unbolt the idler pulley--not the tension pulley. If you have a buddy that will help you then don't remove idler pulley. A small crow bar against the tension pulley will loosen up the belt. This should free up the tension and after removing the crank shaft pulley(you might need a special tool) the belt should slide off. Put the new belt on, carefully lining up the marks you made. Put the crank shaft pulley back on. And ect. If you are solo, be very careful when puting the idler pulley on. Don't strip or get the bolt crooked. If the timing belt broke and the above steps is above you---take the car to a proffessional. Otherwise I'd be surprised the timing isn't off and you can skip marking everything. Remove the broken belt---buy a Mazda book--study timing--and then replace belt. Good luck.

Side note, If you are replacing the timing belt. Maybe you should do a compression check on your engine-- It might be time to just remove and replace the engine. Been there done it---Fun Fun! :)

It is on your left side underneath the air filter (the black box with a thick pipe running from it).

The symptoms you describe suggest more than just a "blown" fuse. The first step you need to take is to have a "qualified" [NOT a"shade tree" amateur] automotive electronics technician "troubleshoot" your electrical system in order to first identify the problem[s]. Once all defeciencies have been identified, decisions can be made regarding the proper way to correct the cause[s].

Idling in park, pull the trans dipstick and check the level.

Both spee sensors are located under the car on the drivers side and right behind the tranny dip stick (looking from drivers side). There are 2 beige plastic plugs that screw directly into the tranny and wires attached to each. If you jack your car up and get under there with a flash lite you won't miss 'em.

Best of Luck

If electrical (you turn the key and there's no response at all) -

I would check the connection. Make sure it's hooked up right. If so, use a test light to check the circuit while someone else turns the key (Park or neutral for 5speed with ebrake on [safety] or on truck jackstands on level ground [more stable]) - maybe a short or bad relay or fuse. Use test light along circuit until the light goes on, then look at what was before that spot. There it is.

If mechanical-

If you hear the starter motor trying to work- either battery is bad, or there's something causing mechanical resistance inside the motor (see if a 1/2" ratchet will turn the motor- if you can turn it by hand, then it's the battery)

[guess work]

I have a 2002 intrepid with a 2.7 and i have had to replace water pump several times. Because the timing chain drives the water pump it is a pretty good job to do. I recommend that you go to a local parts house and get you a haynes or chilton manual for a intrepid and look under the timing for your engine and it will give you step by step instructions. You have three colored links on the timing chain and they have to be in certain places for it to be in time. You have two cams on each head so just get you a manual i was able to do mine and it runs great my problem is the water pumps only last about 1 year and i have to do it all over again.a manual is a must on this do it youurselfer. Good luck

The fuse panels loations are #1 is under the hood of your car and it is labeled fuse panel.. The 2nd one is located on the drivers side. Open the door and on the outside of your steerng wheel, you will see a pull out piece with fuse access written on it.

is your check engine light on? I had that happen to my car. It would turn on then "die". (The rpm needle would go all the way down, wouldn't move in drive) and it was because the car had no oil in it. It leaks like crazy o I always have to put more oil in along with this no-smoke anti-leak stuff. Also, check your ignition coil. It may need to be replaced.

5 year HOAT. Not Dexcool.

A 1997 Dodge Intrepid has two engine mounts and one transmission mount.

Battery is dead.

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Take it to someone who is qualified to work on airbags. Do NOT attempt to do anything to the airbags if you don't know what you're doing. Those things can go off for no apparant reason and can cause serious injury or death.

Probably by the passenger firewall near the drier--follow larger line from compressor

Of course.... the differential / transaxle uses a Mopar 75 - 90W Hypoid Gear oil

There are three actuators controlling three "doors"of the HVAC unit all mounted on the outside..the defrost actuator is vacuume controlled on manual HVAC, but on electronic

HVAC systems[push-button digital read-out display] the defrost actuater is electronicly

controlled..This actuator is located just above the gas pedal on the HVAC housing...