Dodge Intrepid

pull down on both sides there is a clip on both lf and rt side I did this a week ago to change my bulbs, yes no one could answer this for me also.

As far as general answers for recharging the AC, I'm sure that the question has been answered elsewhere. The low pressure port, which you'll need to charge it through, is located on the top of the compressor, it originally had a plastic cap marked L. Even if it doesn't, the charge hose fitting will only go on the port you need to be using.

To go off of the above answer, you need to shut the car off. Using the low pressure port on the AC compressor, plug the coupler end to it. Then you will need to start the car and turn the MAX AC on. Then you can open the refrigerant valve to let it charge. You need to make sure you do not overcharge it, or it will not work. I think you can use any type of refrigerant. If you do not feel comfortable with it, bring it to an expert.

Disconnect Shift cable and see if u can shift. if not its the cable. just replaced mine the other day. They put the cable part that slides into the case almost directly below the ash tray, so all ash's go onto the cable. i added a "boot" to my new one.

The above answer only applies if the shifter handle is hard to move. If the trans is not upshifting out of second, it could be a speed sensor. You should have the trans computer checked for trouble codes to know possible causes.

Using a sharpie marker, hold the license plate up the the front bumper and mark the bolt holes on the bumper and then using a drill gently apply pressure and drill through the bumper, be sure there are no wires behind where you are drilling and not to drill in too far, then attach the license plate with two bolts and nuts.

No it does not. I wish mine did though!

Could be low oil level or faulty sensor. The 2.7L intrepid oil pressure is considered good if the pressure stays above 5 psi. Normal oil pressure at 3000 rpm is above 45 psi. If the pressure sensor diaphragm leaks while running it will build up pressure on the outside of the diaphragm on the connector side. When the engine returns to idle the outside pressure will cause the sensor to momentarily falsely detect lower than 5 psi and turn on the light. If the sensor leaks oil, replace it. Also if the engine has greater than 75,000 miles using full synthetic 10W40 motor oil will increase the idle pressure by about 5-10 psi versus 10W30. Mine was reading 12 psi (with a gauge) and increased to 20 psi with the heaver weight oil.

no the 1996 -1998 is the same then the 2000-2004 is the same so it will not fit

One of the door ajar switches is showing an open door. The switches are part of the latches inside the door.

You take the old one out and put the new one in.

Try the dealer or a engine remanufacture shop..

A normal 5/8 spark plug socket should work just fine.

The amp is found on the right side wall of the front passenger foot well. You have to lift up the plastic trim and wall/carpet cover to see it. It would seem that you have to rip out the glove compartment but you don't have to. Carefully unplug the three sets of amp connectors to see the mounting bolts. The amp is bolted at the bottom part only.

go to auto zone under repair info and put ur make and model in and u should c it..

replace the blower motor switch

A Ethylene glycol antifreeze coolant should be used (Mopar coolant) and mixed with 50/50 with distilled water. Another coolant that is pretty good is the Zerex G-05 antifreeze (approved by Daimler-Chrysler).

The best way that I have found to remove the starter is to purchase or go to your local library and check out a copy of the Haines manual. I have used it to remove alternator, ECM, and the instrument cluster.

no no

this sounds like a problem i had on my 2000 you need to look into having the shifting cable replaced. some of the late 90 models have had a recall on the shifter and if you are in that recall, you can go to a dodge dealer and they replace it for free, that was my case.

i found some prices around 640.00 but i have one off a 98 dodge intrepid for sale 450.00 and texaslivin05@hotmail.com

The engine computer is also the voltage regulator.

After checking the code, and repairing the cause, you clear the code with a scan tool.

Your best bet would be to purchase a Haynes manual. I replaced the water pump on a 95 and did the timing belt with it. Make sure you read the steps and understand before doing the work.

This is advice not from a professional---just a little more experienced novice like you.Hopefully you are doing some pre-maintenance and not repair. On pre-maintenance-- This isn't an easiy job--tight space. I would loosen up the motor mount and carefully jack up the engine. You might have to unbolt the mount that connects the drive train to the engine block. Listen to not cause any damage to componets. Taking the plastic covers off is hard. The valve cover needs to be removed. The alternator belt and the airpump /air-conditioner pump belt need to be removed(gets them out of you way. Carefully mark the positions of the cams with the belt that needs to be replaced so you can make the same marks on the new belt. Mark the direction the belt being removed goes. Why that matters I don't know. If it were me--I would unbolt the idler pulley--not the tension pulley. If you have a buddy that will help you then don't remove idler pulley. A small crow bar against the tension pulley will loosen up the belt. This should free up the tension and after removing the crank shaft pulley(you might need a special tool) the belt should slide off. Put the new belt on, carefully lining up the marks you made. Put the crank shaft pulley back on. And ect. If you are solo, be very careful when puting the idler pulley on. Don't strip or get the bolt crooked. If the timing belt broke and the above steps is above you---take the car to a proffessional. Otherwise I'd be surprised the timing isn't off and you can skip marking everything. Remove the broken belt---buy a Mazda book--study timing--and then replace belt. Good luck.

Side note, If you are replacing the timing belt. Maybe you should do a compression check on your engine-- It might be time to just remove and replace the engine. Been there done it---Fun Fun! :)

It is on your left side underneath the air filter (the black box with a thick pipe running from it).

The symptoms you describe suggest more than just a "blown" fuse. The first step you need to take is to have a "qualified" [NOT a"shade tree" amateur] automotive electronics technician "troubleshoot" your electrical system in order to first identify the problem[s]. Once all defeciencies have been identified, decisions can be made regarding the proper way to correct the cause[s].