Dodge Intrepid

Take the light assy off and they screw in from the back.

there are plastic fasteners in the trunk, take them off and pull tail lamp out. replace bulb and re-install

NOTE There are THREE (3) black plastic nuts holding on each tail light assembly! It won't come off until you take all 3 out, and you do not have to take the trunk liner off either.

Once you take the 3 plastic nuts off, the tail light assembly will come loose and pull out so you can change the bulbs.

The third nut is in the corner of the trunk up near the top.

To change the high mount stop light bulbs in the middle of the trunk lid remove 4 black plastic liner things, like screws, they pull out, then fold back the trunk lid liner and you'll see the bulb sockets. They twist out 1/4 turn like usual.

It controls the operation of the transmission.

5*114.3

No, the sentry key (skim) is a learned function that can not be removed.

No, the sentry key (skim) is a learned function that can not be removed.

Directions straight from the owner's manual. 1. Open the hood and remove the headlight assembly mounting screws. 2. Pull the headlight assembly forward to access the bulbs. 3. Turn the bulb assembly retaining ring counterclockwise and pull the bulb and socket assembly from the housing. 4. Remove the bulb from the socket and replace the bulb. 5. Reinsert the bulb and socket assembly and turn the retaining ring clockwise to secure the bulb. 6. Reinstall the headlight assembly.

21 ft lbs 5 1 4 7

front 6 2 3 8

HOAT (Universal) Antifreeze purchased at any Wal-Mart which is a combination of IAT (green) antifreeze and regular OAT (usually yellow, red or orange) antifreeze. Chrysler started using the universal stuff after a short experiment with GM's "Dexcool" (OAT). I used dexcool in my Intrepid because I had leftover from my Chevy Malibu of the same year because it was the same color (orange) and nothing has happened yet but the color of antifreeze is just a dye and shouldn't be used to determine the type of coolant you should use. I had no manual but I figured it out by researching online. I recomend flushing the radiator first as well before switching to regular green (IAT) antifreeze or you could even use 10% green and 90% OAT to make your own universal HOAT antifeeze (Hybrid Antifreeze) which is only a combo of both IAT and OAT antifreeze. Hope that answers your question.

R-134A

Did this last weekend (2May09) and was a PITA. My experience was for a 2.7L engine. First make the engine safe by disconnecting the battery. Then Remove the belt driving the pump. Loosen the center bolt on the idler pulley then find the adjustment bolt that is to the passenger side from the pulley at about 10 o'clock from the front. Loosen this using a socket and long extension. Should turn easy and the belt will loosen. Then release the oil return line from the pump reservoir. It is held in place with a spring clamp. Just slide it back. Pull the oil return line off the reservoir and catch the oil in a pan. It will make a mess. You should remove the pressure hose which threads into the bottom of the pump. If you find a wrench that fits this space, then yea! I was not that lucky. Anyway, the rubber hose has a crimp on metal pre-bent tube that runs to the pump and attaches to the bottom at an odd angle. You can see it from above but just barely. It is rather tight. In case you could not get a wrench on the pressure hose, move on. Remove the three bolts that hold the pump to the engine. Access is through the holes in the pump pulley. Don't pry on the pulley as it is plastic. There is a split bushing that pushes into the pump for clamping pressure on the bolt at the 9 o'clock position. It must slide out to release the pump. Wiggle and pry the pump to get this to move. In my case, I had to release the wiring harness that passes just above the pump along the valve cover corner. This allowed the pump to tilt back enough to get a wrench on the above mentioned pressure hose fitting. Remove the hose fitting and lift out pump. You must use a power steering pulley puller to get the pulley off. I got a borrow tool from auto parts place. Remove power steering pulley. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the reservoir to the old pump. Transfer it to your new pump. Replace the O-ring with a new one (my kit had it included). Reinstall bolts. Reinstall power steering pulley using bolts in the removal kit. Do not hammer or press the pulley on as it will damage the small mechanical seal (ceramic) on the shaft inside the pump. Reinstall the pump in the its hole. Depending on your luck with the hose the steps will change. But in my case, I put the pressure hose back on using a new O-ring, installed the 3 bolts, put the return line back into place, reinstalled the belt and tightened it, filled the pump with ATF-4+ (TSB recommends this now), hook up battery and start it up. Run the engine and turn the steering fully to each side and back. Check and add fluid to reservoir as needed.

The temp guage could be faulty, where it has gone bad, or the heat sensor itself had gone bad unless the vehicle is actually getting hot. O2 sensor wont cause rough idling but it would cause these types of problems: * Surging and/or hesitation Poor or a decline in fuel econmy Failed exhaust emissions testing Premature failure of the catalytic converter (rotten egg smell) Indicator "idiot" check engine lights coming on

1,2,3, 4,5,6

pull down on both sides there is a clip on both lf and rt side I did this a week ago to change my bulbs, yes no one could answer this for me also.

As far as general answers for recharging the AC, I'm sure that the question has been answered elsewhere. The low pressure port, which you'll need to charge it through, is located on the top of the compressor, it originally had a plastic cap marked L. Even if it doesn't, the charge hose fitting will only go on the port you need to be using.

To go off of the above answer, you need to shut the car off. Using the low pressure port on the AC compressor, plug the coupler end to it. Then you will need to start the car and turn the MAX AC on. Then you can open the refrigerant valve to let it charge. You need to make sure you do not overcharge it, or it will not work. I think you can use any type of refrigerant. If you do not feel comfortable with it, bring it to an expert.

Disconnect Shift cable and see if u can shift. if not its the cable. just replaced mine the other day. They put the cable part that slides into the case almost directly below the ash tray, so all ash's go onto the cable. i added a "boot" to my new one.

The above answer only applies if the shifter handle is hard to move. If the trans is not upshifting out of second, it could be a speed sensor. You should have the trans computer checked for trouble codes to know possible causes.

Using a sharpie marker, hold the license plate up the the front bumper and mark the bolt holes on the bumper and then using a drill gently apply pressure and drill through the bumper, be sure there are no wires behind where you are drilling and not to drill in too far, then attach the license plate with two bolts and nuts.

No it does not. I wish mine did though!

no the 1996 -1998 is the same then the 2000-2004 is the same so it will not fit

Could be low oil level or faulty sensor. The 2.7L intrepid oil pressure is considered good if the pressure stays above 5 psi. Normal oil pressure at 3000 rpm is above 45 psi. If the pressure sensor diaphragm leaks while running it will build up pressure on the outside of the diaphragm on the connector side. When the engine returns to idle the outside pressure will cause the sensor to momentarily falsely detect lower than 5 psi and turn on the light. If the sensor leaks oil, replace it. Also if the engine has greater than 75,000 miles using full synthetic 10W40 motor oil will increase the idle pressure by about 5-10 psi versus 10W30. Mine was reading 12 psi (with a gauge) and increased to 20 psi with the heaver weight oil.

One of the door ajar switches is showing an open door. The switches are part of the latches inside the door.

You take the old one out and put the new one in.

Try the dealer or a engine remanufacture shop..

A normal 5/8 spark plug socket should work just fine.

The amp is found on the right side wall of the front passenger foot well. You have to lift up the plastic trim and wall/carpet cover to see it. It would seem that you have to rip out the glove compartment but you don't have to. Carefully unplug the three sets of amp connectors to see the mounting bolts. The amp is bolted at the bottom part only.

go to auto zone under repair info and put ur make and model in and u should c it..

replace the blower motor switch