Dodge Intrepid

As another poster said, You could be low on oil. If you are seeing the indicator 'flicker' when braking and stopping, and always at that time, I doubt if it's a wiring issue (shorted or open). You might have an oil pressure problem. Does your car have a 2.7L engine in it? They are notorious for plugged oil galleries in the blocks, impeding the flow of oil, which would explain the pressure fluctuations and subsequent flickering indicator light. These plugged galleries end up starving essential engine parts of oil, causing catastrophic engine failure. I bought a 2000 Intrepid ES, but I specifically looked for an engine OTHER than the 2.7, and got one with a 3.2L instead. Just Google Chrysler, or Dodge 2.7L engine and I'll bet you'll find lots of discussion about the high failure rate of that particular engine. Good luck. == == == == cause you are low on oil or you have a short

I was hoping for an answer, cuz mine does that too!

yes

Any name brand 5w30 or 10w30

First of all, this is not a job for the average Saturday home mechanic, particularly if you live in the "rust belt" where roads are salted in the winter and undercar corrosion is rampant. You didn't say, but I assume you meant front sway bar link rather than rear. The fronts on these cars have a reputation for giving up the ghost. Getting the old link off the car may require special tools including an impact wrench, a nut splitter, and as a last resort, an oxyacetylene torch. If the fasteners are very rusty, it may take an hour or more to remove the old links.

1. Jack up the car and support on jack stands.

2. Remove front wheels and tires.

3. Remove the upper and lower nuts which attach the link to the strut and the sway bar.

These nuts are an unusual size, use an 18mm wrench, with a 6 point 8mm socket to hold the stud from spinning. Penetrating oil will probably be needed, as well as lots of patience.

4. Remove the links. You may need to raise the strut assembly slightly with a hydraulic floor jack to remove tension applied by the sway bar before the link can be removed. Be careful not to jack too much or you may raise the entire car off the jack stand (dangerous).

5. Install the new links. The kind with grease fittings are good. If you remember to grease them regularly, their life will be greatly extended. Torque the nuts to 70 lbs-ft.

6. Install wheels and tires, torque lugs in 2 steps in a star pattern.

7. Jack car down and check final lug torque to 95 lbs-ft while on the ground.

Craig in Rochester, NY

Trouble code P0202 means: Fuel Injector 2 Control Circuit Malfunction Trouble code P1684 means: The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts

Quote:

"Left side of dash, 6 way rectangular connecter."

You will find it right behind the lower right part of the dash on the drivers side near the center console or ash tray. It is a blue connector attached to the knee bolster.

5w30

The fuse box is located inside the end panel on the drivers side of the dash. The cover is "diguised" as just an end cap of the dash, but you can remove it and the fuses will be in plain view. You will need to have the door open to gain access to the end cap.

3.3L holds 5 quarts 3.5L holds 6 quarts

5w30

.040

It means oxygen sensor bank 2, sensor 2. Before replacing parts you will need to check for vacuum leaks. Just because you have a code it doesn't necessarily mean that part is defective.

Two on the engine, one on the trans.

Two on the engine, one on the trans.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_remove_the_engine_cooling_fan_assembly_from_a_2000_dodge_intrepid"

could be a sheered parking pin inside the transmission or the shifter linkage needs adjusting either way best left to a transmission shop is not to fimiliar with automatic transmissions

Trouble code P0442 means:Evaporative emission control system leak detected (Small leak)

you must take in to a certifed ASE mechanic as it is illegal to do it if you are not certifed

That is an out and out lie! If you can prove it I will apologize. I believe you should research the law and you will find out that anyone can change their freon, R-134a is available at most parts stores and in stores like Wal-mart, if it were illegal it would not be available to the general public.

To answer the question, find the low pressure port and while running the engine put the freon in till the gage say it is good makesure you have the A/C on max...

Begin by removing the valve cover from your 1995 Dodge. Remove the valve cover gasket and clean the surface. Put the new gasket on and return the valve cover to its original position.

3.3L with oil filter=5 quarts

without oil filter=4.5 quarts

3.5L with oil filter=5.5 quarts

without oil filter=5 quarts

This reply is taken from the Chry repair archives. I had the same problem and tried this repair and it worked. "Most of the time this problemalways occurs right after the battery is replaced, even though there are no other signs of a loose battery cable. The combo flasher is extremely sensative to LOW VOLTAGE. in turn the combo flasher does not have enough energy to cycle and it will BUZZ. Check the battery cables and the auxillary smaller battery cable at the battery as well as the auxillary body ground." "The 1993 & 1994 LH's use a 4 wire flasher. The 1995-1997 LH's use a 5 wire flasher. Be sure you have the correct flasher and thoroughly load test the power and grounds to the flasher. The combo flasher will flash the lights faster than normal if it detects either high resistance or a burned out bulb, this is done by design to alert the customer. The flasher is actually a logic module that detects current flow. This is unlike all of the earlier hazzard and combo flashers of the 1980's where they were simply circuit breakers. When a bulb burnt out, the flasher would not cycle and only the one bulb would light up (not flash)."

Depends on the cause. If cable is broken, bend a coat hanger to snag the cable still attached to the hood latch and pull it out. You should be able to open the hood simply by pulling hard. If it has become disconnected, like I am dealing with now, it will depend on the make & model as to whether you can release the latch from underneath with a long screwdriver to having to unbolt the latch mechanism after removing the grill.

It should just pop in and out of place with plastic clamps, Sot you should just be able to pull gently but not hard enought to break them

no