Dodge Intrepid

Two on the engine, one on the trans.

Two on the engine, one on the trans.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_remove_the_engine_cooling_fan_assembly_from_a_2000_dodge_intrepid"

could be a sheered parking pin inside the transmission or the shifter linkage needs adjusting either way best left to a transmission shop is not to fimiliar with automatic transmissions

Trouble code P0442 means:Evaporative emission control system leak detected (Small leak)

you must take in to a certifed ASE mechanic as it is illegal to do it if you are not certifed

That is an out and out lie! If you can prove it I will apologize. I believe you should research the law and you will find out that anyone can change their freon, R-134a is available at most parts stores and in stores like Wal-mart, if it were illegal it would not be available to the general public.

To answer the question, find the low pressure port and while running the engine put the freon in till the gage say it is good makesure you have the A/C on max...

Begin by removing the valve cover from your 1995 Dodge. Remove the valve cover gasket and clean the surface. Put the new gasket on and return the valve cover to its original position.

3.3L with oil filter=5 quarts

without oil filter=4.5 quarts

3.5L with oil filter=5.5 quarts

without oil filter=5 quarts

This reply is taken from the Chry repair archives. I had the same problem and tried this repair and it worked. "Most of the time this problemalways occurs right after the battery is replaced, even though there are no other signs of a loose battery cable. The combo flasher is extremely sensative to LOW VOLTAGE. in turn the combo flasher does not have enough energy to cycle and it will BUZZ. Check the battery cables and the auxillary smaller battery cable at the battery as well as the auxillary body ground." "The 1993 & 1994 LH's use a 4 wire flasher. The 1995-1997 LH's use a 5 wire flasher. Be sure you have the correct flasher and thoroughly load test the power and grounds to the flasher. The combo flasher will flash the lights faster than normal if it detects either high resistance or a burned out bulb, this is done by design to alert the customer. The flasher is actually a logic module that detects current flow. This is unlike all of the earlier hazzard and combo flashers of the 1980's where they were simply circuit breakers. When a bulb burnt out, the flasher would not cycle and only the one bulb would light up (not flash)."

Depends on the cause. If cable is broken, bend a coat hanger to snag the cable still attached to the hood latch and pull it out. You should be able to open the hood simply by pulling hard. If it has become disconnected, like I am dealing with now, it will depend on the make & model as to whether you can release the latch from underneath with a long screwdriver to having to unbolt the latch mechanism after removing the grill.

It should just pop in and out of place with plastic clamps, Sot you should just be able to pull gently but not hard enought to break them

no

Take the light assy off and they screw in from the back.

there are plastic fasteners in the trunk, take them off and pull tail lamp out. replace bulb and re-install

NOTE There are THREE (3) black plastic nuts holding on each tail light assembly! It won't come off until you take all 3 out, and you do not have to take the trunk liner off either.

Once you take the 3 plastic nuts off, the tail light assembly will come loose and pull out so you can change the bulbs.

The third nut is in the corner of the trunk up near the top.

To change the high mount stop light bulbs in the middle of the trunk lid remove 4 black plastic liner things, like screws, they pull out, then fold back the trunk lid liner and you'll see the bulb sockets. They twist out 1/4 turn like usual.

It controls the operation of the transmission.

5*114.3

No, the sentry key (skim) is a learned function that can not be removed.

No, the sentry key (skim) is a learned function that can not be removed.

Directions straight from the owner's manual. 1. Open the hood and remove the headlight assembly mounting screws. 2. Pull the headlight assembly forward to access the bulbs. 3. Turn the bulb assembly retaining ring counterclockwise and pull the bulb and socket assembly from the housing. 4. Remove the bulb from the socket and replace the bulb. 5. Reinsert the bulb and socket assembly and turn the retaining ring clockwise to secure the bulb. 6. Reinstall the headlight assembly.

21 ft lbs 5 1 4 7

front 6 2 3 8

HOAT (Universal) Antifreeze purchased at any Wal-Mart which is a combination of IAT (green) antifreeze and regular OAT (usually yellow, red or orange) antifreeze. Chrysler started using the universal stuff after a short experiment with GM's "Dexcool" (OAT). I used dexcool in my Intrepid because I had leftover from my Chevy Malibu of the same year because it was the same color (orange) and nothing has happened yet but the color of antifreeze is just a dye and shouldn't be used to determine the type of coolant you should use. I had no manual but I figured it out by researching online. I recomend flushing the radiator first as well before switching to regular green (IAT) antifreeze or you could even use 10% green and 90% OAT to make your own universal HOAT antifeeze (Hybrid Antifreeze) which is only a combo of both IAT and OAT antifreeze. Hope that answers your question.

R-134A

Did this last weekend (2May09) and was a PITA. My experience was for a 2.7L engine. First make the engine safe by disconnecting the battery. Then Remove the belt driving the pump. Loosen the center bolt on the idler pulley then find the adjustment bolt that is to the passenger side from the pulley at about 10 o'clock from the front. Loosen this using a socket and long extension. Should turn easy and the belt will loosen. Then release the oil return line from the pump reservoir. It is held in place with a spring clamp. Just slide it back. Pull the oil return line off the reservoir and catch the oil in a pan. It will make a mess. You should remove the pressure hose which threads into the bottom of the pump. If you find a wrench that fits this space, then yea! I was not that lucky. Anyway, the rubber hose has a crimp on metal pre-bent tube that runs to the pump and attaches to the bottom at an odd angle. You can see it from above but just barely. It is rather tight. In case you could not get a wrench on the pressure hose, move on. Remove the three bolts that hold the pump to the engine. Access is through the holes in the pump pulley. Don't pry on the pulley as it is plastic. There is a split bushing that pushes into the pump for clamping pressure on the bolt at the 9 o'clock position. It must slide out to release the pump. Wiggle and pry the pump to get this to move. In my case, I had to release the wiring harness that passes just above the pump along the valve cover corner. This allowed the pump to tilt back enough to get a wrench on the above mentioned pressure hose fitting. Remove the hose fitting and lift out pump. You must use a power steering pulley puller to get the pulley off. I got a borrow tool from auto parts place. Remove power steering pulley. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the reservoir to the old pump. Transfer it to your new pump. Replace the O-ring with a new one (my kit had it included). Reinstall bolts. Reinstall power steering pulley using bolts in the removal kit. Do not hammer or press the pulley on as it will damage the small mechanical seal (ceramic) on the shaft inside the pump. Reinstall the pump in the its hole. Depending on your luck with the hose the steps will change. But in my case, I put the pressure hose back on using a new O-ring, installed the 3 bolts, put the return line back into place, reinstalled the belt and tightened it, filled the pump with ATF-4+ (TSB recommends this now), hook up battery and start it up. Run the engine and turn the steering fully to each side and back. Check and add fluid to reservoir as needed.

The temp guage could be faulty, where it has gone bad, or the heat sensor itself had gone bad unless the vehicle is actually getting hot. O2 sensor wont cause rough idling but it would cause these types of problems: * Surging and/or hesitation Poor or a decline in fuel econmy Failed exhaust emissions testing Premature failure of the catalytic converter (rotten egg smell) Indicator "idiot" check engine lights coming on

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