Dodge Intrepid

I have a 2001 2.7 L Intrepid and it takes 4.5 quarts

lens cover is very hard to pull off, I don't want to break it, is there somethind I am doing wrong?

No, a Stratus engine sits transverse, while the Intrepid sits front to back.

There are thumb screws in the trunk some are exposed and some you will have to pull back the carpet to acces when you remove these (4 per light I think) you can pop the whole light assembly off the car and work on it.

Dodge does not use inertia/reset switches.

Sounds like cam position sensor , when it starts going out it affects the timing causing the car to jerk and run badly

It is under the housing that the lower radiator hose hooks to on the engine.

Dodge does not use mass air flow sensors on the Intrepids.

No, the tank has to be removed.

Either a 318 or a 350 Golden Commando

The t100 does not have a distributor. Instead it uses 3 ignition coils ( 2 spark plugs per coil) and the computer fires the primary of the correct coil at the appropriate time. This change was primarily done to improve the ability of the computer to optimize the timing for all the variables (especially smog and performance).

no unless you have parts that need replacement

You must remove the wipers, cowling, wiper motor and linkage assembly. Then you will remove the power steering lines, connectors and tie rod ends. Next, remove the bolts holding the rack to the body of the car, then remove it through the hole where the wiper motor and linkage assembly was located.

According to Advanced Auto Parts the Thermostat is located on the lower radiator hose at the engine.

Thanks, Kit

The horn relay on a 2004 Dodge Intrepid can be found in the fuse box under the dash on the driver's side. It is a small, rectangular shaped plug in to the left of the hazard flasher plug in.

Sincerely, I recommend you buy a shop manual. Haynes or chiltons (for the inexpensive cost) are good manuals to consult. I use Motor or Mitchl manuals.The job you are questioning is quite an involved one.

You must at least, posess good mechanical skills. As this proceedure, if not done correctly, will render ur car useless. It basically involves removing parts and placing them back but, you must have the proper tools and, the manual in order to see the pictures or Figs.

Still want to know? Ok. Keep in mind, that this is a 2 man job, and that this procedure works better for an engine that has the existing belt still, but will work on one that has broken off. It just has a few more things to consider.

1- Apply emergency brake.2- Raise vehicle and support with stand.3- Remove front left wheel.4- Jack up engine a bit, to relieve weight on motor mount which must be removed on that same side the wheel came off.

5- Remove #1 sparkplug and bring that #1 piston to TDC. (Top Dead Center) To do this, have someone tap-crank the engine till u can visually see the piston come up. Important: #1 piston must come up on compression stroke!! In order to figure this out, use either of two ways. Either place a rolled piece of tissue onto the opening of the sparkplug hole, (as piston comes up on compression stroke ONLY, the tissue will pop out). Or, if you can block the hole with a finger (just snug) you will feel the compression blow by your finger. This SHOULD bring the timing marks to their respective places.

Note: (If you DONOT feel pressure come out of the sparkplug hole, you may have really bad piston rings. If so, this work is not needed, another engine is).

6- Disconnect NEG battery cable.

7- Remove motor mount.

IMPORTANT= Before removing all I am about to explain, you MUST loosen the Crankshaft center bolt first!! With the help of all the belts still on it will be hard, but, you must find a way to stop the lower crankshaft pully from rotating! If this pully rotates, the #1 piston will loose its correct timing position and YOU MUST re-do step #5 ((I KNOW, I HAVE DONE THIS)) If you do not have a tool that can hold the pully, you can try this.> NOTE: some people use a pry bar and wind up cracking the pully! Don't do it to that point. This pully has several holes in it. Using a chain, Bolt it at top where the motormount goes. Bring the slack down along side this pully. Find a small bolt that will fit in the holes with out having to screw in. If it does, all the merrier.

8- With the chain in place, place a pry bar (big screw driver like tool) in between engine and pully (with EXTREME caution)not crack anything plastic or the edge of the pully, or with causing warpage. (sorry, this is one way if you do not have that special tool that holds this pully).

NOTE: you must remove the lower plastic cover under the engine just in the front!

Now, when you removed the wheel, you did it so you can access this little hole that is covered by a rubber cap, remove this cap. Thru this hole you will see the crankshaft bolt. NOTE: if it does not seem aligned, lower or raise the jack to make it aligned. Place the correct size half inch socket over the nut. Insert a half inch ratchet extension, and attach a breaker bar to it. Place and hold the prybar in place and have the 2nd man turn the breaker bar counterclockwise until she breaks loose. THIS MUST BE ACHIEVED

9- Now remove belt by loosening the alt tensioner to slack the belt, and any other component that has a belt (ie, A/C, pwr str etc). Once this is done, begin lossening the screws or bolts to the pully of the water pump and crankshaft. They basically have 4 screws ea. Crankshaft pully has the center bolt too, remember! (DO NOT MIX THEM with others)

AGAIN: DO NOT allow crankshaft pully to budge!! Once the crank pully is off, you will notice its timing mark by means of a pin on the gear. Now, the timing mark which is to match with this pin looks like a pimple and is located at a 1'Oclock position on the engine. (In other words, look at this gear as if it were a clock. The little hand MUST be pointed to 1 O'clock. Once the pullys are off, remove the timing belt covers (2 pcs). There are several 10mm screws- don't mix them.

10- Now, at the top, you will see the camshaft, which will reveal part of the belt. What you want to check for is the timing mark on the belt pully sprocket (THIS ONE STAYS ON -DONOT REMOVE). This mark is in the shape of a triangle >. This mark must be pointing to 3 O'clock, at its counter timing mark, which is located about an inch away on the engine head. AGAIN: You must have a manual in order to understand this. If it is not, careful rotating adjustment must be done so that ALL timing points match.

11- Now you must just loosen the timing belt tensioner spring (a spring with a bolt thru it)

12- Now loosen the timing belt tensioner (the bolt is on the right side of it)

13- Once this is done, the belt can now be removed.

TO REPLACE.. follow these steps in reverse order. Make sure to check timing afterwards with timing light.

IMPORTANT: You can tell if #1 piston is at Top Dead Center, by removing the distributor cap and checking to see, that the rotor points to #1 wire on the cap. The distributor cap has the numbers on it.

on the intake manifold, close to the thermostat housing, which is at the end of the top radiator hose on the engine.

it won't work properly and if you feel the pipe it would be hotter than normal in one place and not so hot in another.

A jammed CD in the CD-radio player in a 2000 Intrepid can be removed by inserting a paper clip into the right side of the inlet. This will force the CD to eject and allow it to be safely removed.

No the Intrepid is not being made it was discontinued in after the 2004 model year and was replaced by the dodge magnum/charger

It is on the opposite side of the throttle body from the throttle cable attachment.

Without knowing what sensors you are trying to replace, there is no answer. Please re ask question about a specific sensor.

there are two tourqu screws one on each side undo thes and slide out light then release the clip on the bulb from the back side and slide out the bulb

Trouble code P0340 means: Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor) Replace the sensor

Yes, it could.