Dodge Ram

look at the air filter box and follow the big hose to the throttle body. somewhere on that hose (the biggest one) is a piece with several wires to it . that is the map sensor. be shure not to touch the spring looking things as this will kill it.

The sensor that you describe is the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, NOT the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor.

Per Ford, my 1991 Ranger XLT 3.0L v6 EFI truk does NOT have a MAP supposedly because it has a MAF. I suspect his 1990 Ranger also lacks the MAP.

The above is correct, that is the MAF sensor described by the first . On my 1990 Ranger 2.9L 4x4 Automatic, The MAP sensor is located on the firewall. It is on the passenger side of the distributor and towards the top. It is actually inside a compartment in the firewall. All you are able to see is the wiring connector that plugs into it. There is also a larger vacuum line that plugs into it.

My truck appears to have both a MAF and a MAP

I have also heard that there are some rangers out there that were made for California emissions regulations and are not equipped with either the MAF or MAP. Its either one of the other but I cant remember which one.

first thing is you need to pull off the belts, and yes all of then because the stering belt in behind the others. then there is two bolts holding the pump so remove them and then just remove the high and low pressure lines and your done.

It is on or near the receiver dryer or shiny looking thing at the right rear of the engine compartment. You need gauges to correctly add refigerant as you can overcharge it.

Check to see if the oil pressure comes back up when the engine is at running speed. If so, you're seeing evidence of main and/or rod bearing wear. Change to a heavier grade oil. If you've been using an oil with a 5 in the viscosity number, change to a 10 or even a 15. The manufacturer always recommends an oil, but that is for engines that are new. Once the bearings start to wear you need the thicker oil. That's why it's available.

I have a 93. Same setup. Start by taking the two fans off. Then the windshield washer tank, then the support bar on the left side, the the two wishbones, then the air cleaner, then take a swivel to get to the back bolt and a normal socket to get to the front one..

This is a very common issue with most Ford vehicles. The main door switch is the reason for your problem. Their door latch assemblies go bad often and when this happens it is telling the car that your door is adjar, when it isn't, which is making your dome light come on.

The ignition module for this vehicle is mounted on the driver side fender well just below the hood hinge and behind a round vacuum diaphram.It is rectangle in shape and has a connector plug at one end(facing towards the front of the vehicle)and is mounted on a aluminum base with cooling fins(much like a small lawn mower engine)

cam shaft that allows the downward thrust of one

Piston to cause another piston to move back up to be ready to be pushed down again. The

Ignition is timed in a manner that allows the sequential firing of the spark plugs to cause

The cam shaft to rotate smoothly.

by Evan

The cam shaft opens the valves as the piston comes up and down to let fuel in and let exhaust pass the crankshaft pushes the pistons up and down

Left side (drivers side) engine compartment. Between air cleaner and fender, bolted to the fender. Lots of wires going into it.

The recepticle could be a GFI ( ground fault interuptor) which needs to be reset. The circut breaker might have tripped, or you could have a bad plug-in. All are pretty easy to fix. Now if it is a light socket, it could be a bad switch, a tripped circut breaker or a bad light socket.

The standard star pattern used on most street cars.

It is similar to drawing a star in points, all the lugs must be tightened or loosened opposite from each other.

Jeep does not use a mass airflow sensor on the 4.0L

if they come on but wont flash replace flasher module in fuse box if no they don't come on at all check fuse

This is the simple answer but if they still don't work u know you have power and good bulbs try this feel behind the flash module that's in the fuse block u will probably find an additional flash module this one is used for the 4 ways/ts also the switch is mounted so that it catches dust clean the 4way switch with q tip so that it moves freely and doesnt stick hope it helps save u some time

on the side of the fuse panel under the hood next to the battery.

Your local auto parts store has aftermarket service manuals (Haynes is one publisher) for your specific make, model, and year of vehicle. It costs less than half an hour of a mechanic's time, and is invaluable for finding, testing, adjusting, and repairing things on your car, as well as critical specifications and information. It will also give you an idea of the complexity of the repair, as well as the skills and tools required for the job.

I fixed the no-headlight problem on my 1996 Jeep Cherokee (not a Grand) by replacing the headlight switch. As I recall, the black plastic knob is removed from the outside. Then, there is a button on the switch housing itself which is difficult to reach - you have to put your head on the floor and reach way up underneath. Pushing the button allows the stem to be pulled out from the front. My memory isn't clear. It is also hard to get the large connector loose because of the plastic clips holding it in.

I don't know why the old switch wouldn't work. I had no faith that replacing it would do any good. It did - the lights have worked without issues since.

Hope this helps.

First you will need to take out the screw holding the trim aroung the radio. It is located inside the trashbag hook at the bottom of the dash. Then you will need to remove the a/c knobs. The trim will then just pop out, but be careful not to break it and there will be some wiring attached. The radio itself is held in with 4 screws.

Could this be a fuel filter or fuel pump problm?

get an LS or SS bumper with the fog light holes, and there are fog light harnesses on eBay u could get that actually come with the actual fog light assembly and the fog light harness. if not buy them both separate. Then u could make a hole where the original switch should go with a dremel tool and there u have it

Remove wheel and ensure vehicle is properly supported

Remove caliper and caliper mount bracket

Use a small sledge hammer to strike rotor in between lug nut studs.

Use safety goggles

After a few hits try pulling rotor off, if you can not keep hitting rotor with hammer

Repeat until rotor comes off

Those numbers are trouble codes stored in the PCM's memory and don't directly refer to parts. It's never a good idea to replace parts without first confirming the failure by means of the recommended diagnostic procedure. Code P0463 was set due to a high-voltage fault in the fuel-level sensor circuit. This may be caused by a bad sensor, the powertrain control module, or a short in the applicable circuit. The problem may be a defective fuel level sensor in the fuel tank.

Soap and warm water should do the trick with latex paint. Don't go around trying to get it off with paint thinner or acetone; those are for oil-based paints. If it's a good quality paint or dried hard, you might have to scrub a bit, but if it's still wet it will come right off. Hot water and scrubbing with my finger tips works well for me. Our skin is porous, whatever we put on it is absorbed by our bodies through the blood vessels. Never put thinners or similar solvents on your skin, especially acetone, tolulene, etc.

I think it's in the valley at the front of the engine. it isn't hard, you just have to take several other things off to get to it. Once it's replaced, you may have to turn the engine over for a while for it to prime.

located on steering colum have to take out plastic out from under steering wheel pull off the fuel and trunk lever switch and the light switch and the panel off that are by your fuses its located upper left corner