Dodge Ram

I think it's in the valley at the front of the engine. it isn't hard, you just have to take several other things off to get to it. Once it's replaced, you may have to turn the engine over for a while for it to prime.

located on steering colum have to take out plastic out from under steering wheel pull off the fuel and trunk lever switch and the light switch and the panel off that are by your fuses its located upper left corner

i have a 96 dodge ram van 2500. I lift the hood up and right above the 2 adjusting screws that adjust the beam, or better yet, ontop of the head light lens you will see 2 clips ( they lock those 2 adjusting screws in place) and are actually holding your head light assembly in place. Pull those clips up, dont pull them out, just enough to release those 2 screws that are holding you lens assembly in place.....good luck

You need to replace the distributor cap and rotor with factory A/C delco parts. That should fix your problem. You may also need to check the COIL wire at the top of the coil. You can check that by spraying water on the coil with a water bottle and see if it starts. If it don't start then REPLACE the coil and coil wire.

first you have to pop the door panels off then unscrew the stock speakers and pull them out then there should be aclip on the back side of the speaker pull the clip off and if your replaceing it with oem speakers just clip in the oem speakers but if your gonna use no oem sppeakers/ like wal-mart car audio speakers you have to cut the clips off and wire it to the prongs on the back of the replacement speakers.

start by pulling the door panel out at the bottom - no screws here. it will pop but that's ok - keep pulling out the panel around the sides until you get about half way up. then pull out the electrical switchplate - also no screws - and unplug both sides. next unscrew the door opener handle (one screw). now pull out the handle that is used for pulling the door closed. this will expose two more screws that need to be removed. the hard part is this - push the unscrewed door opener handle through the slot it sits in. the last step is to push in on the center of the plastic circles on the top left and right. the panel should now almost fall off.

yes but it may take a few mods. steering may be an issue

Replacing ball joints is very labor intensive, and should not be done at home if you are not experienced at auto repair.

A very quick generalized rundown of the procedure is:

Raise and support vehicle

Remove wheel

Remove tie rod nut

Separate tie rod from knuckle

Remove brake caliper and rotor

Remove front axle nut(on 4X4 models)

Remove or unplug ABS sensor if equipped

Support lower control arm with jack

Remove upper ball joint nut

Separate upper ball joint

Remove lower ball joint nut

Separate lower ball joint

Remove steering knuckle assembly with hub and all from vehicle.

Use ball joint press to remove and replace ball joints.

Reverse procedure to put car back together. Repeat for other side.

go buy a workshop manuel there are blowups in manuel

Integrated into the alternator.

== == Go to a good hardware store and tell them your problem. You will probably have to get a fine grit sandpaper to sand off the latex and probably the whole piece and then restain the piece of furniture. Just before you do that (latex is water soluable) take a damp cloth and lay it on the stain. Then with one of those dish scrubbers (the ones with the one side that is yellow and the other side green) gently scrub this area. It's worth a try before you go to the hardware store.

= =

Fairly easy,I did it in about 5 mins.(2000 Dakota with Infinity system) You need to pry off the bezel that surrounds the dash. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry off the bezel,and pop it out of its retaining clips. I had to lower the tilt steering wheel to make room to get it out. Once that is off,you'l lsee the radio. Mine is held in by 2 bolts,just unscrew them and the radio unit will pull out.

2,700 1972 Demon 340 made in 1972.

ok there are 2 small screws located at the top of the sounding plastic housing. after you take them out removing the housing and locate the 4 screws in the metal bracket around the headlight (2 on top and 2 on bottom. remove them and pull out the headlight. reverse order to put it back

This truck and stalling out have become synonymous. Within the first six months of owning the truck I notice that whenever I would cold start the truck and put it into gear the RPMs would drop and the truck would stall. Similarly it would stall out whenever I was coming out of reverse and into drive (after backing up). I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed the problem as a faulty crimp in the spin up transmission filter. They replaced the filter and everything was fine for about a year. The truck started dying on me again only this time the check engine light would come on and off at random intervals (not seemingly related to the truck dying). I took it in and this time they diagnosed a faulty EGR valve. Apparently is was sticking open and causing the truck to run lean and stall out. They replaced it and what do you know...about a year later (yesterday) I was coming home from work and the truck started shuddering and dying and had no power under acceleration...the check engine light came on and now here it sits in the shop...AGAIN!!!...for the SAME problem. I bought the truck because I liked the styling and the performance of the Hemi...but after owning this one I'm questioning whether or not I want to buy Dodge again...EVER. Three times this truck has actually put my safety in jeopardy by dying in the middle of the road (the second time was in the middle of the highway during rush hour). So the short answer to a long story is that I've been given several reasons for why this truck keeps stalling but after doing some research I found out that Dodge launched a study for the 2004 Dodge Rams for the very same problem but couldn't find a definite reason for the stalling and hence didn't find reason to issue a recall.

I don't know what year Dodge truck you have but for a good number of years the back up light switch on a Dodge was threaded into the transmission, if it was an automatic. The same switch served as the neutral safety switch.

a speed sensor tells the vehicle computers how fast the vehicle is going, and also possibly operates the speedometer. If it is a wheel speed sensor it tells the anti-lock brake system how fast the individual wheel is turning and activates the anti-lock brakes in case of a skid.

Open your owner's manual and read. There you will find the answer. Don't have an owner's manual, get one. You can order one from the dealer, or check at a salvage yard, where you may find one laying in the glove box of a wreck. To be more specific and give you a right answer instead of the RUNAROUND you got above, IT'S a 10amp. Hope this helps.

How are you, My name is Matthew from Scottsdale, I too have a 2001 maxima and I love it. the service engine light came on a few weeks ago and I,m pretty sure it is the sensor. First off there are 3 of them. they look very easy to replace. If you pop the hood and look at the gap between the mainfold and the radiator you will see 3 wires one is blue, red, white. (if it is the same as my maxima) Each wire clips into this plastic holder (should be covered with electrical tape). The blue wire runs to the left into the mid part of the manifold about 8 inches from where it started. The other 2 (red and white) runs down the the bootm of the engine (yikes!!) But if you follow them down to the bottom of the car you will see that they are not really hard to get to. With a little bit of diligence and patients I think it is really possible. The one question I have is which sensor is the problem Blue White of Red? I work at Sears at night and I am going to ask if they can figure out which on it is and see if I can't replace it myself. No need to change a sensor if it isn't needed. But the question now is if it will still in fact shut off that Service engine soon light. Well lets take care of one problem at a time. I'm going to find out if they can't look at my car tomorrow. Until then safe driving fellow 2001 Maxima owner! Please if anyone has better suggestion please I'm all years.

Ok, jack up the front end of the truck and sit in on jack stands placed on the from crossmember (not the LCA), take off the tires, it makes it so much easier, next use a ball joint clam, or a 5 ton two jaw gear puller and use it to take tension off the torsion key bolt, take out the bolt and remove the thing the bolt bolted into with a pair of pliers, your probably going to have to pound on the end of the t-bar to slid it out.

he's a link to a Very well done how for torsion bar removal (it's written for chevy's but the same concept is for all trucks and cars with front torsion bar suspension).:

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/offroad/65871-ford-keys-torsion-bar-cranking-replacing-tech.html

I deffinitily suggest reading that thread, lots of good info

The starter solenoid or relay switch needs to be replaced. Definitely not true, start out with something a little more simple, clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight, that is usually when you will hear clicking.

If you are lucky the engine stalls. If you are unlucky the gasoline detonates, bending rods, blowing head gaskets, breaking pistons, etc. The injection system may also suffer.

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Most usually they are located either IN the glovebox OR Under them! I have found some answers to some of my questions under ask.com or you could call a local Dodge dealer to make sure you find it! Most mechanics can tell you for no fee if you call one. My husband used to drive one way back in 1996 and the place he works for had 2 that were that old. He told me the fusebox is either Under the glovebox housing or IN the glovebox if NOT look near the brake area! Sometimes there is a fusebox there as well! I know over the years they have changed the locations of them so many times it's confusing but I hope I have helped you!

Sincerely Yours,

Roxanne Sock (My dad was a Certified Mechanic for over 21 years)

Well hun, first of all you don't have to change how you look. YOU be YOU, no questions asked. all you have to do is start conversations with a guy and then you become, easy as that. You have to be funny or talk about some guy stuff. Trust me if you talk about sports they will get into talking to you more. i have A LOT of guy friends, and its not because I'm pretty, its just cause i know what to say, and DO NOT ask them about a girl, like don't ask them if they like your friends or something cause they will think you start drama and stuff. oh and also, use breath mints if you like the guy, then he will lean into you and you could kiss, hah idk. well peace out homes!

<3,

Serena

first let me just say it's not about how you look it's about how you approach them. depends what type of boys to. a girl can always win over a boy with a little smile or hand wave or maybe a strong over five seconds eyes contact. if the boy's the first one to look away and really quickly means he's not really interested but when he looks away slowly it means he felt something but to embarrassed to embrace it, and if you look away your true lovers.

good luck hope i helped.

Mismatched socks are a great attention grabber. I'm under thirteen, but I caught like, I don't know how old he is exactly but some older teen boy looking at them. And the guy I like notices them too, which is very good. ;) I always wear them, it has become my "trademark". In VBS (Vacation Bible School), we have crazy days, and on crazy dress up day, the guy was sitting next to me and he said, "Hey, maybe you should have worn matching socks!" lol Anything that's unusual(in a good way) will usually get a guy's attention, unless he's like, super thick and/or can't see anything besides what you point out to them/isn't right in front of their face.

Good luck!