Ford Contour

Dipstick for both the V-6 & I-4 are located at the front near the radiator. The V-6 will have the dipstick slightly offset toward the passenger side and very close to the radiator, the I-4 will be more centrally located & close to the engine.

Bank 1 is cylinders 1,2 and 3. These are the cylinders closest to the fire wall. FYI cylinder 1 is closest to the timing chain/power steering pump side of the motor(opposite from the transmission side. For the uninformed, cylinder 1 is at the back of the engine bay farthest from the battery.

OK this will be very easy and simple to do just be careful and take your time. First jack the car from the front on the side your going to change put a jack stand under the car or a concrete block to where it is flush with the car and the jack. Second remove the tire and the strut may have the brake line hook to a brace on the strut remove it with the proper tools and now yours may be a 2000 model or older so some have one bolt at top or three bolts at the top or even four but (DO NOT REMOVE THE CENTER BOLT ON YOUR STRUT) Because this bolt holds the spring in place and it is held by allot of pressure if you do unscrew the center it is possible to cause death or serious injury only remove the outer bolts from above to undo the strut from the wheel base. Now after doing so the top of the strut should be moving freely . Now unscrew two bolts and screws that are located at the bottom of the shaft on the strut right behind the brakes if needed for more room you can remove the brake caliper and rotor to give you some more room Now that you have removed this two lower bolts you can now remove the strut freely to install the new one put it in place starting from the bottom put both nuts and bolts in place put the rotor back on and the brake pads and caliper tighten everything up place the middle of the rim under rotor and remove the jack stand or block and slowly lower the car down and Aline the upper bolts with the holes once there in and you can put the nuts on stop the jack from lowering and tighten the nuts on the bolts above raise the car back up and double check every thing to make sure everything is tight and secure once your done put the tire back on and snug the nuts until you have completely remove the jack from the car and finish tighten the nuts on the rim and your done. Just be easy with it be safe and curious also while your changing your struts check your rotors and brake pads, brake lines and your rubber bushing and last and not least your CV axles for broken boots if there's grease all over the place from the boot its time to replace the CV axles only if that's where the boots are split completely apart from each other the not expensive depending on where you buy your parts shop around get quotes on the parts you need and the one that's cheaper with a good warranty. Its better to be safe than sorry.

There is a possibility that mold has grown in the plenum, or in some of the ducting. I would recommend you take it to a shop that check for this and can clean out the entire system. Home remedies for this problem seldom work.

It depends. On my 96 Contour they would not come off. I had to remove the whole hub & with the assembly off I was finally able to get the drum off the hub. Also I had to buy a larger torque wrench as the hub nut had a higher torque than I could get with my old one. If you do this you may have to get replacements for the hub nuts as they can only be reused a couple of times. Before I put the drums back on I applied a little silicone grease between the hub & the drum in hopes it would not stick on again. Haven't had to remove them again so don't know if that worked. One thing I found when I removed the drums was that the automatic brake adjusters had never been connected at the factory. When I put things back together correctly they worked fine. Also if you have a digital camera take pictures as you take things apart. It helps when you try to get it back together.

The switch is located on top of the transmission. Also called a transmission safety switch. 2 bolts and a plug in. Should take about 20 or 30 minutes to change. Get your new one and then you will know excatly what your looking for and it will be a snap! My Trannsmission would kick into neutral (seemed like it was slipping) then back into gear. Replacing this switch should take care of that type problem. Even though everyone will want to seel you a rebuild!

I have a '95 Ford Contour and it seems the only way to cut the interior lights on and off is at the light panel itself located on the ceiling above the mirror, but it is most problematic, basically this is a very common complaint (not working properly)... I suggest running a direct feed off of your battery to this small cluster of interior lights to have some degree of reliability (I was installing a radio in mine & the dome lights came on when connecting one of the electric wires to the system, luv it).

I hope your wiring harness is not cracked, this is also a very common problem, weak insular vinyl was used on this wiring harness, causing a myriad of possible electrical problems. arching etc.

i thinks its about 50 L because when i fill my cars tank it took 42L and there was already some in there.

i need to see a picture about where this is

Sounds As If You Need To Replace It. There Isn`t Much Of A Test To See If It Is Working Unless You Remove It. Replace It + Any Radiator, Heater Hoses, Bypass Hose Also.

14.5 Gallons or 55 liters.

If you need a diagram to service an air conditioner, then you need to hire a professional. A technician has to be MACS certified to even check an a/c. You may cause more damage than you already have.

The 1999 Ford Contour OBD 2 port is under driver side dash next to kick panel

P1121 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor : Inconsistent with MAF Possible causes: 1)Damaged MAF sensor 2)TP sensor not seated properly 3)Damaged TP sensor 4) Air leak between MAF sensor and throttle body Try checking connections to the MAF and TPS sensor. Also remove MAF sensor (you may need security torx bit) and inside you will see 2 wires - VERY gently clean them with a q-tip (BE GENTLE) dipped in electrical cleaner (you will see tons of gunk and black soot come off) and reinstall. P1151 - Lack of HO2S indicates Lean -21 Switch, HEGO Sensor (really fancy name for the Oxygen sensor - of which there are 2) Possible Causes: Electrical * Short to VPWR in harness or HO2S * Water in harness connector * Open/Shorted HO2S circuit * Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring * Damaged HO2S * Damaged PCM Fuel System: * Excessive fuel pressure * Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors * Leaking fuel pressure regulator * Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel * Vapor recovery system Induction System: * Air leaks after the MAF * Vacuum Leaks * PCV system Improperly seated engine oil dipstick EGR System: * Leaking gasket * Stuck EGR valve * Leaking diaphragm or EVR Base Engine: * Oil overfill * Cam timing * Cylinder compression * Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S(s) P071 and P074 - o2 sensors. You most likely have a combination of needing your 02 sensors replaced and needing MAF sensor cleaned/replaced. Also possible vaccum leak.

Easiest way is to disconnect the negative battery cable for a couple minutes then reconnect. This will clear the error codes from the computer. If everything is okay, the CHECK ENGINE light will stay off.

10-12 degrees

very difficult!! it involves lowering the front H member. disconnecting all the lines which are still in tight spaces, unbolting the steering shaft knuckle, securing the steering wheel so you do not damage the clock spring, and unfastening mount bolts and heat shields. Mark your tie rod ends or count the the threads before removing as this will set you at near alignment for installation. Next you transfer all parts that were not included with the replacement unit and install using reverse procedure. prime the power steering system and follow up with a front end alignment.

I think you mean fuel injection service. It's when you hook up a small container full of a cleaning agent (like a solvent) to the fuel rail and using compressed air push the solvent though the fuel rail and injectors for about 30 minutes while letting the engine run.

No, it does not.

I have a 1998 Ford Contour with 6 cylinders 2.5L and they are 32 mm.

The Ford Explorer uses an idle speed control valve that allows air to flow thru the idle air passage inside the intake manifold. When this air passage gets clogged up with carbon or grime it restricts the passage & the result is a loud humming / moaning noise. The repair is to remove idle speed control valve & spray carburetor cleaner or intake cleaner thru air passages inside intake manifold & clean or replace idle speed control valve.

Radiator plugged or restricted? Cooling system airbound? Water pump not circulating coolant? Radiator cap defective? Radiator hoses collapsing under pressure? Defective gauge/cooling temperature sensor?

I believe it is just to the left of your fan speed control knob for your heater / air conditioning

Dear User, There are a few reasons why the ford contours' electric windows won't roll up. These could be: 1. The window crank is jammed by dust, this can be fixed using an old rag or cloth and giving it a wipe. DO NOT wet the electric motor or electrics. 2. If the car has got SRS windows. The safety System Could have malfunctioned. I would suggest you don't try and fix this yourself unless you have electrical and mechanics knowledge. 3. Most of all there is one final reason the windows could be smashed.

( 2 ) there is your instrument panel fuse box and the power distribution box in your

engine compartment by your battery , that also has fuses and relays in it