Ford Escort

I would run a diagnostic for trouble codes. Just because your check / service engine isn't coming doesn't mean that something isn't wrong. If you don't have the knowledge or tools needed to do so, please take you car to a repair shop. Because a vehicle speed sensor and eec (the main computer) shouldn't continuously go bad. Actually you should not have to replace the EEC at all.

It is unknown whether or not this engine can be turbocharged. But we'd love to see someone try it and share their results! If you have Japanese connections, you might want to investigate the Mazda-made direct-injection turbo version of this engine, offered in the 1999 Mazda Capella (Mazda's Japanese-market midsize family car). That engine is the same basic design as ours, and might fit in our cars.

The 1753 cc IDI diesel(60 bhp) which was used in the older generation Escorts were later upgraded to Di turbo(90 bhp). The Di turbo diesel had premature wear on con-rod bearings compared to IDI diesel. One can try to give mild boost to IDI diesel by adding a small waste gate turbo. I say small turbo, smaller the turbo-earlier it kicks-in. This will improve its initial response by a great deal and also prevents from the con-rod bearing failure.

A lot, and it's a hell of a lot more fun than office work.... and perfectly legal too ;-)

ford escort mk1 has a vin number on off side front strut top and a tag on the slam panel.

1. Securely block the rear wheels. Jack up the front end and put it on jack stands.

2. Remove the splash shield from under the passenger side of the engine compartment.

3. Unbolt the water pump pulley (the drivebelt will hold the pulley so it won't turn while the bolts are loosened).

4. Remove the drivebelt.

5. Unbolt the air conditioning compressor and place it out of the way.

6. Loosen the clamps and detatch the hoses from the water pump. If they are stuck grasp each hose near the end with a pair of slip joint pliers and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off. If the hoses are bad cut them off and install new ones.

7. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.. Remove the bolts and detach the water pump from the center timing cover.

Installation

1. Clean the bolt threads and the threaded holes in the engine to remove corrosion and sealant.

2. Compare the new pump to the old one to make sure they are the same.

3. Remove traces of the gasket material with a gasket scraper.

4. Clean the engine and new water pump mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

5. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the gasket mating surfaces of the new pump.

then carefully mate the gasket and the pump. Slip a couple of bolts through the pump mounting holes to hold the gasket in place.

6. Carefully attatch the pump and gasket to the engine and thread the bolts finger tight into the holes.

7. Install the remaining bolts and tighten them to 17 ft. lbs.

8. Reinstall all parts removed for access to the pump.

9. Fill the cooling system and check the drivebelt tension. Run the engine and check for leaks.

air idle controller solonoid very simple i just unlugged mine and it idles like its carburated till it warms up

1977-85 Impala, 1977-90 Caprice

Front: 6.5"

Back: 5" x 7"

find where it's been installed (in harness) disconnect all components reattach/repair harness.

PCV valve should be on bottom right side of motor. to the right of the last spark plug. Pull it out with car off. It comes out with a hose on it. Insert new PCV valve into hose. Insert PCV into open hole.

Yes, both are 2.0 L SOHC with SPI Split port injection. Physically they are the same engine, however the computer may be different and the wiring may be different. I would ask an engine remanufacturer if it could be done.

I bought a 2001 Focus with SOHC engine for $500 and is a nice car with power everything except the rattling noise inside the head. Not knowing what I'm into, it was too late when I found out in the internet about the cylinder head problem and 2 holes in the #4 cylinder wall. Being in Alaska not very much running engines to find for my Focus. To make my story short, I found a 98 Escort block for $100 thinking they are the same. They are the same, bore and stroke, cylinder bolts, oil pan, engine to tranny will fit, oil pump, the rest doesn't. The Escort block has a hole in the Crankcase vent needs to be covered, you have to add a support for the mounting bracket for the Focus right CV shaft carrier bearing which is mounted to the block, tap a hole for the Focus water pump, oil sender adapter. The heads are both SPI but won't interchanged, the manifold of the Focus is different or vice versa and the bolt pattern for the manifolds. Anyways, it works for me and my daughter is driving a nice Focus for a total of $1200= car, parts and busted knuckles, Good luck!

I just bought a 98 very nice Escort for $200 same problem, at least I know what to do this time.

It should be very obvious if you look at the new one and the one in the car. Actually I've only changed a few because I've never actually seen a bad one. A bit dirty maybe and worth a cleaning, but actually bad? Never. I'd try spraying it with some carb cleaner while the engine is running, it should clean right up.

Btw, who told you it was bad? I'm guessing a smog tech? Those weazles, they make a lot of money changing little things like that and they'll stop a smog test hoping you'll say; "Ok, just fix it". I hate mechanics like that...

You probably have one turn signal bulb that is burned out. Turn on your blinker to whichever direction makes it flash fast, then get out and look at both the front and rear indicators. If you replace one bulb, it is best to replace its twin on the other side, since that light is (or should be) just as old as the one you just replaced. It's convenient that the auto parts stores sell them in two-packs.

there ain none but u can get it done on eBay for 1 pound

Well, both the wipers and the blower could have a burned out fuse. Of course, they both could have a burned out motor. I would run a hot wire from the battery to the wipers and the blower motor. If they worked, I'd be looking for a fuse or bad switch.

No , the 1999 Ford escort wagon is SOHC according to my Consumer Guide

book

The CCRM is a set of relays in the same box. The relays control the radiator cooling fan, the PCM, the fuel pump and the A/C compressor. Pre-97 Escorts had separate relays on the above functions. Starting in 97 continuing through 2002 they put all the relays in one box.

Assuming you mean re-mount it to the windshield, try your local parts place for a kit that does the job. They are inexpensive but the directions must be followed to the letter. Or did you mean the mirror is broken? You weren't clear with your question.

you have to take the alternator off and put the one you bought from the store on and start it and if it freezes you have to take it back

I did this myself a few weeks ago. I also strongly recommend using a spray cleaner and rags or a hose to clean the gunk and grease off the Alt. It's shot, yah don't have to worry about getting the insides dirty! Besides, when yah take it back and they open the box to look at it you can cheekily say yah cleaned it off for them! 1: Disconnect negative terminal on battery-this is a rule or you'll suffer a blown diode in the alt. when you plug one of the wires back in. Then you'll have $90 bucks of scrap metal. :-) 2: Put a 3/8" breaker bar or ratchet into the square hole on the tensioner and pull to front of car to loosen and remove belt or shove out of way then ease it back. 3: Remove the a/c hose bracket from the top of Alt. bracket. Tip: You may need to also unbolt the a/c hoses from the strut tower to wiggle them around for more room. 4: disconnect the electrical wires from the Alt. Two use those stupid little snap connectors, use a small screwdiver and carefully ease them off. The main one uses a small nut, that's another reason to disconnect the battery since that's a positive connection! :-) 5: (Very Important) Unbolt the Power Steering reservoir and try to shove it aside a few inches. I didn't do this, bolts were extremly rusty and afraid of breaking them I skipped this step. It was the cause of much cursing and swearing later since the wiggle room was then extremly limited, almost impossible. It was 50 degrees out tho, so that kinda kept me warm for awhile....:-) 6: Loosen, then remove the top and bottom mounting bolts. The bottom fastener has a sliding nut built into the Alt. bracket, I think mine was stuck in place so was the cause for some warm up cursing before trying to actually get the Alt. to slip up and out. :-) You may want something handy to pry the Alt. up and out. 7: If your lucky then you can grab the A/C hoses with your right hand and ease them aside as you use your left hand on the pulley to lift the Alt. up and out like that stupid picture in the haynes book. If not, your gonna be swearing a lot, especially if you didn't clean the gunk off and yah can't get a grip on the darn thing. :-) 8: Clean your hands off, your gonna need a break anyways. :-) 9: Now you can re-install everything in reverse order or any order you want, just connect the battery terminal last.

OOps forgot to add, this is for a 93 escort with 1,9 Liter engine. According to Haynes, the 1.8L alt. is mounted lower and after loosening bolts yah need to jack car up and remove a splash shield to remove the lower bolt, then remove Alt. 2.0L engines (coupe) need the coolant reservoir removed for wiggle room. 2.0L wagons and sedans, you need to free the Oxygen Sensor wiring harness from it's retainer on mounting bracket and unbolt power steering and A/C hose brackets from top of Alt. bracket, then remove mounting bolts.

In 5: above, in addition to unbolting the power steering reservoir, in the '94 Escort you should also remove the radiator overflow tank. Located to the left of the power steering reservoir, Two bolts attache it to the firewall. Removing the radiator overflow tank lets you move the power steering reservoir completely out of the way, allowing the alternator to be easily removed and then re-installed.

It is in the owners manual. If you don't have one get one from MOTORLIT.COM

Without a date.

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5.4

Removal Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the front door trim panel. Peel back the watershield. Remove the rear view mirror mounting hole cover. Disconnect the power mirror electrical connector. Remove the outside rear view mirror Remove the screws. Remove the outside rear view mirror. Installation NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 mi) or more to relearn the strategy. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

It should be around or close to the 02 sensor. Check for a part dangling by a wiring and connector.