Ford Falcon

AIR

They were manufactured in the united states and australia.

I own a falcon, a 1965 to be precise 200ml and 6 cyl.

The gas tank wasnt designd for the fast flow of todays pumps. Just pump it slow, halfway hold the trigger and hold the nozzle half way out so oxygen can get into the tank.

also a tip dont use gas with ethonal in it.

-TirbAIT

The Ford Technical Service bulletins can be found on the regional websites of the Ford company. The dealers will also have material provided for Ford car owners and enthusiasts.

Good Looking Interior

Depends on the type of transmission. Falcons were offered with Automatic, 3 speed manual on the column and 4 speed Borg-Warner on the floor.

For automatic and manual on the column the switch is on the column itself under the dash.

For the 4 speed, the switch is on the transmission itself under the floorboards with wires coming through the floor and up along the firewall.

Both plug into the body wiring harness and fuse box on the drivers side under the dash.

firing order for a 302 Cleveland is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

The message '4th gear ratio incorrect' can indicate that there is a problem with the solenoid for the torque converter. This is code 54 on a Mitsubishi Galant.

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If it is a Electronic Auto transmission (1990ish onwards), it could be that the computerised gear change moduals are not working. Check the fuse first.

It would be running in 'limp home mode' and only staying in third gear. even moving off from start in it.

X reg doors have a different wiring harness to W reg doors, swap red wire with blue wire and the door will work in sinc with other doors. renault dealership

Assuming its the 6 cylinder engine not the V8...

The starter motor is on the right hand side of the engine as you look from the front of the car. It will be held in by 2 or three bolts (depending on the model of starter motor).

Tools needed are a 13mm socket, a ratchet and some extension connections.

Safety first:

1. The starter can only be accessed from beneath the vehicle so use a hoist, inspection pit, or as a last resort jack the left hand front of the car up and use jack stands (DO NOT rely on the jack alone!) to raise the car enough to get under it. Make sure the rear wheels are chocked as well.

2. Ensure you disconnect the battery before starting work as a short between the engine and starter with your tools can result in a fire, severe burns or welding the bolts so tightly the engine will need to be removed to cut or drill them out.

Steps for removal are to undo the 2 or 3 13mm bolts holding the old starter in then gently wriggle the starter off the bell housing, disconnect the spade type wire connection and lower the motor to the ground. Then undo the 13mm nut holding the battery connection cable onto the starter.

Reverse the above to put the new starter in but bolt the lower bolt in finger tight first to prevent the starter moving too much as you do up the top bolt by feel.

Any EA-EF or AU model starter will work as a replacement.

about 36 inches?

With a lot of difficulty.

1) On both distributorless and dizzy/coil setup, take the intake piping off from the airbox and the intake manifold. Take the air cleaner off if its carbied.

2a) Then for the distributorless ignition, reach your hand under the front of the intake and you will find the plugs about halfway back on the engine. The order is 1 2 3 once you find the coilpack.

6 5 4

2b) On the dizzy/coil setup, the dizzy is under the intake manifold, but at the front of the engine. Looking at the dizzy with the vacuum advance at the bottom/left of the dizzy, plug 1 is the plug directly left of the coil plug in the middle. Then it goes clockwise around the dizzy 2 3 4 5 6.

3) Once you've changed the leads, start the car before putting it back together just to make sure it runs fine.

4) If its fine, put the intake piping back on and there you go..

Be sure to correct this if anything is wrong, last time i worked with a dizzy, especially a ford 1 was in school wen i was pretty much rebuilding engines for a living. I wrote this while it was fresh in my mind because i changed the leads and plugs on my EF just last weekend and it was a pain

It really depends on the model.

You do not have to remove the intake manifold or plenum chamber.

In fact you don't even need to remove the air box.

Its not that difficult even on BA and AU I & II if you have a hoist you can get underneath the car easier without removing all the stuff.

You can do it without a hoist and without removing all this stuff simply by jacking up the car on chassis stands or putting on ramps and getting underneath to access the coil pack or coil and the lead connections.

You will have to stick your head up into the engine bay to see and will need a light or torch.

Do them 1 by one disconnecting 1 and pulling it out through the plenum chamber then feeding the new one through and connecting.

Its easier with 2 people one to feed the leads through the plenum chamber otherwise you are constantly getting under the car and getting up to feed it all properly.

It took me with someone to help me all of 25 minutes to do on ramps.

here is the wiring diagram

Search: fordmods

It does not have one

The automatic gearbox is out of the EL Falcon while the engine is carried over from the XG Longreach!

Australian XM and XP hardtop doors. I have a 1966 XP with one XM and one '63 convertible door. Possible USA made hardtops as well. The 64 will probably fit but has a different skin. Anthony
Brisbane

kind of a touchy motor, if in tip top shape and a 5spd manual. get up 23mpg with the 3.0v6.

Under the dash, directly under the headlight switch.

I have the same problem...

I dont know what to try as there are no indications of an O/Speed control button.

Though the problem might have something to do with the steering wheel controller that was replaced to accommodate a new head unit.

In a BA Ford Ute, the flasher unit is typically located in the fuse box, which is found underneath the dashboard on the driver's side. It's usually positioned near the steering column or near the driver's footwell. If you need to replace it, refer to the owner's manual for the specific fuse box layout and identification of the flasher relay.

Its not the park brake that's the (P) symbol. That warning light pretty much means not to rely on your brakes to much. If your lucky it might just be that your brake pads are worn down and the brake fluid is low. I would recommend checking both the pads and fluid. If they are both fine then it might be your brake booster which i would recommend leaving to a mechanic as they can be really tricky to replace. Hope this helps cheers ken

First disconnect battery.

Remove cold air induction tub for battery off.

Take air filter lid off.

Disconnect coolant bleed hose from thermostat cover.

You may need to remove the fan with the fan shroud together. It saves removing the radiator.

Remove the four screws which retain the fan shroud.

Using the proper tool, or a long, strong flat blade screwdriver, place the screwdriver or proper tool (if you have it) between one of the retaining bolts and the water pump hub to prevent the assembly turning.

Using a 32mm spanner or big shifter, loosen the fan clutch retaining nut.

Remove the fan clutch from the water pump hub.

Lift the fan, clutch and shroud as an assembly from the car.

Alternatively, if you have the radiator out, it's as simple as undoing the four retaining bolts or nut (can't remember whether their nuts or bolts, and slide the fan assembly off the pulley for water pump. Take care so belt and pulley don't come off cos it's hard to put back on if you don't know what you're doing.

If ussure still, buy the Gregory's ford maual. costs only 30 bucks. has everything in it including photos.