Ford Festiva

With most flywheels once, you have removed the obvious parts, pulleys, bolts etc, you will need to "Draw" the flywheel off the dowels. Often there are two "Threaded Blind Holes". Using suitable size bolts you can screw these in and draw off the flywheel, if there aren't any holes, use a suitable lever (Large screwdriver) and carefully prise the flywheel off.

ford festiva stopped while driving it has fuel and power it just wont turn over

Remove the bottom radiator hose. the fluid will run out. replace the hose and re fill the radiator at the top, through the radiator cap. run the engine until warm. check the overflow/expansion bottle attached to the radiator cap (The white plastic bottle). top up as required to the full level on the bottle.

You need to remove the entire spendle assembly. Lay it on an open vise and with a correct size rod, from the inside, drive the center out until the rotor and outside bearing drops out. Do not disturb the bearing. Remove the four bolts from the rotor, which you can now get too and the rotor will come off. Replace the rotor with a new one and lay the spendle assembly on a hard surface and carefully drive the shaft back into the spendle. If you have a "slide puller" you can actually remove the assembly while the spendle is still on the car.

Mounted on the engine block.

On the manual trans there is no dipstick.You check level by marks on speedo gear in transaxle which you remove by removing one 8mm bolt on drivers side of trans axle.It uses Mercon V automatic trans fluid.

Tryto verify the year of the Festiva. They were not made after 1994. first of all buy a better car and the festiva was a for lack of a better word a soap box car

The marks are on the bottom pulley , you may need to get a white marker to hi light it , so it will be easier to see with a light .

some of the early 2.0l dodge turbo parts would help you to switch it a turbo motor, the computer will be the hardest part to make work, also if the car has more then lets say 20,000 miles it may not be able to live very long, also will need a set of turbo cast heads! need to lower the compression, so will need turbo pistons too!

Many things-Burnt or Broken Intake or Exhaust Valves.Broken Compression Ring,Bent Push Rod,Pumped UP Hydralic Lifter,Hole in Piston or Block,,OR EVEN a small Piece of CARBON that has come loose from the Compression chamber & has gotten STUCK UNDER one of the VALVES.or a broke Valve Spring.or keepers fell off.Broken conecting Rod.

for just a cv joint u need to get a center punch and tap the indent on the nut out so you can loosen the nut in the center of the wheel. Jack the car up and put it safely on blocks as a jack by its self will be unsafe as you can knock the car around alot. Then remove the wheel. remove the break calipers (be careful not to damage the flexible break line). then remove the center nut all the way. undo and remove the 2 bolts that attach the hub to the suspension. now the hub should be able to move freely around to the rear side of the car. you should be able to push the cv joint out of the hub with abit of effort (be aware that it may be rusted in, so spray it with degreaser and give it gentle taps with a mallet. Be AWARE that if you hit it too hard you may damage the bearing). now if just replacing the cv joint and not the drive shaft, remove the rubber boot and tap the back of the cv joint towards you with a with a mallet (be carefull not to hit your self). put the new cv joint in and do the above in reverse. also if you have some graphite grease on hand rub abit on the splines that go into the hub to make for easy removal down the track, as they can rust in place. (remember to fill the new cv with grease and to top up your gearbox oil) To do the whole shaft just do the same but instead of removing the boot you should be able to pull the shaft out of the gearbox with short, sharp, powerful bursts. If not you will need to use a crowbar in on the inner cv joint where it goes into the gearbox to pop it out (this can take abit of effort so make sure the car is secure on its blocks and heave lol). Note: when you take the cv shafts out check to see if the screws on the break disc are not loose. if they are remove one screw and put locktight on it then put it back and repeat with the other. Hope this helps Brian

Zappa66@hotmail.com

the car has a miss in all gears and is slugish.it drives ok down low however if you give it more acceleration it tends to miss and power drops..

yes

this is a possible 2 part answer based on required clarification of question. to remove the "distributor (cap and rotor)" then you simply unscrew the 2 screws located directly on the outer cap. first remove all wires and be sure as to where they return(or what sparkplug they goto). unscrew these screws and the cap should pull off. you should be looking at the rotor button which also is removed. do this for a minor tune up and replace them if they look warn. if you forgot the order of the wires, then look at the cap, there should be a number 1, this coresponds to cylinder 1 which is closest to the passenger side of the vehicle. fire order is 1-3-4-2 going counter clockwise around the rotor cap. to remove the whole distributor, there are 2 bolts, 14mm, on the right and lower part holding it to the head of the car. if you remove the distributor, there is an o-ring that must be replaced as this is an oil seal and could be damaged during removal from head. hope this helps ...{ASMDEMON} this is a possible 2 part answer based on required clarification of question. to remove the "distributor (cap and rotor)" then you simply unscrew the 2 screws located directly on the outer cap. first remove all wires and be sure as to where they return(or what sparkplug they goto). unscrew these screws and the cap should pull off. you should be looking at the rotor button which also is removed. do this for a minor tune up and replace them if they look warn. if you forgot the order of the wires, then look at the cap, there should be a number 1, this coresponds to cylinder 1 which is closest to the passenger side of the vehicle. fire order is 1-3-4-2 going counter clockwise around the rotor cap. to remove the whole distributor, there are 2 bolts, 14mm, on the right and lower part holding it to the head of the car. if you remove the distributor, there is an o-ring that must be replaced as this is an oil seal and could be damaged during removal from head. hope this helps ...{ASMDEMON}

Find where the speedo goes into the gearbox, unscrew it and slide it out. Get a 10mm spanner/socket and undo the locking bolt immediately next to it, rotate the plate that the bolt was holding down and gently tap out the whole speedo drive. You will now be left with a hole you can drive a bus through. You may need to tap it out from underneath the car. Remember to always chock and block once you have jacked the car.

WHAT ARE YOU DUMB REPALCE YOUR LIGHT BULBS STUPID!

Not stupid replaced circuit boards checked fuses ran test light . When headlights are on no brake light or taillights and have all new bulbs stupid. Turn headlights off brake lights work, so figure that out smart man

The 2013 ford fiesta gets up to 40 mpg. The 2012 ford fiesta gets 29 in the city and 33 on the highway. The 2011 ford fiesta gets 28 in the city and 37 on the highway.

Well, like most secondhand cars, it depends. If it has a straight body, is mechanically A1, no rust, serviced, and comes with floor mats - anywhere between $3500 to $5000. I definitely wouldn't pay more than five grand regardless of condition (I'm writing this in Feb 2008) unless it was modified and also came with a steering wheel cover. I just bought one for $1500. Got the dents out and painted it myself ($200) and reconditioned the engine (Less than $100) and replaced the clutch ($200). Really good on fuel too.

Mine was doing that and I just replaced the fuel filter. I'd say try that...

If that didn't work, it could be a number of other things. Here is something to check. I had a problem with mine where it idled fine, but every time I accelerated it cut out and/or sputtered. Once I reached cruising speed it ran fine again. I chased it for months as it got worse and worse until I couldn't drive it any more. I finally discovered that the flexible tube that connects the air cleaner to the intake plenum had cracks in it from deterioration. They weren't noticeable until the engine rocked, as it does under acceleration. I cleaned the tube up and applied RTV to the cracks. I haven't had any problems since.

Speedometers are not cable driven anymore, they are electronic. You may have a faulty speed sensor.

The thermostat is at tje engine end of the upper rad hose, When replacing it make sure the spring goes toward the engine.

if it's like a Honda you have to pull the wheel & cv axle then it comes out no prob

There should be a mark on the inside of the speedometer cable housing you just need to pull it off and you should recognize the mark its an inch or to above the gear that runs the cable.

I think you will find that the lifters are hydraulic which means they are non adjustable. They either need replacing or the rockers need replacing.