Ford Taurus

MacPherson struts are a variant of the traditional shock absorber - and performs the same role.

In that respect, you can use the same criteria for assessing condition:

• When pushing the front/back end of the vehicle down, how long does it take for the bouncing back to stop. The more the number of bounces the more worn the strut is.
  
  
• Inspect for leaks - evidence of physical damage
  
  
• Mileage - not surprisingly, strut manufacturers advise for a routine replacement at some mileage interval. Not exactly sure, but seems I've heard 50/60,000 miles or os.

Check the headlights first to make sure it's not just a bad filament.If those are good, check the fuses. (Under the dashboard on the driver's side - there are usuallyseparate fuses for high and low beams.)If a fuse is blown, replace it with a fuse of the same capacity (10A, 15A, etc.)

If the fuse blows again within a short time, there may be a short in the multi-function switch. (at the base of the turn signal lever) If you havealsoexperienced problems with the wipers, then this switch is definitely the problem.

The switch costs around $70.

If you plan to repair this yourself,and you have any questions about how to take the steering column apart, feel free to ask.

Back in the old days, cars used an oil pressure gauge - and then along came what are sometimes referred to as "idiot lights" that took their place.

The very same function is being performed: letting the driver know if the oil pressure, therefore the oil levels are getting low.

The flickering light lets you know the oil level is right at the point of being able to trigger the light on the dash.

Also, when the engine is just idling, the pressure is lower and light goes on. When the car is moving though, the engine is turning over faster and the pressure builds up and the light goes off.

The #1 cause of engine failure is engine oil neglect - running oil too long between changes (if any at all!), and running with not enough oil.

The Owners Manual will have all the details and even illustrations on how to take care of your car's oil.
Low oil level. Add oil. Oil pump defective, oil sending unit defective, low oil, bad guage.
1. Defective switch 2. Short in wiring 3. Worn oil pump 4. Worn bearings Hook a direct reading guage to the place where the switch screws in to see what the actual pressure is. If the pressure is good, look for electrical trouble.

It might be a fault with the anti-theft feature. Ford has had several recalls due to this. Web search for safety recall on faulty key-in-ignition chime. I had the same problem with my 1998 Ford Explorer Sport although it started chiming all by itself. On my Exlorer there is a set of 5 wires in a yellow sheath running from the ignition module to a brown connection point/harness in a very uncomfortable position directly under the steering column above the pedals. I unplugged the connection at this point. This stopped the key-in-ignition chiming but I still get the chime alerts for headlights left on, initial chime when the key is turned. The pinging, or ringing chime comes from the multifunction computer located under the dash behind the radio. Hope this help.

See "Related Questions" below for much more about dealing with door sensors.

On one of my older Taurus' I simply followed the irritating noise to the source, up around in the neighborhood of the fuseblock.

There was a simple wire connection to pull off and the silence was golden.

Major information: The 90's series of Taurus's all had a weak ignition lock. Once it is worn it is possible to remove the key without the ignition switch being fully locked, when this happens the "key in" chime will sound, just as it does when you leave the key in the ignition. This has NOTHING to do with anything EXCEPT the ignition switch itself and is easily serviced by replacing the lock, a relatively simple procedure.

If you mean just the gasket, yes, it is possible and a new gasket will cure it, which requires removal of the pump.

Here's something to consider though; If the water pump is old, or high mileage, check around for the price of a new one anyway, just to see. Some waterpumps are really inexpensive, so if you can get a new one inexpensively, you'd probably save yourself a few bucks, in the long term, if you replaced it now, while the pump is off anyways.

If you mean the shaft seal, yes, in fact, it is the most common cause of water pump failure, and the only repair is a new water pump.

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If you're asking about the "latch" which holds the door shut (visible when door is open), it (the latch) may be in the CLOSED position. (When in the OPEN position, it resembles a "U" on its side.)

When you close the door under normal circumstances, an internal "tooth" snaps down, closing the "U" into an "O," grasping the stationary peg in the door frame, thus holding the door in its closed position.

I have "opened" a latch closed in this "O" position by inserting a short, sturdy screwdriver (in lieu of the door frame's "peg" ) and PULLING INWARD while operating the EXTERNAL DOOR HANDLE and pulling OUTWARD. (The door must be unlocked for this to work.)

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Next time - don't play with the latch of an open door. :-)

Per the Owners Manual, DOT 3 type brake fluid.

See "Related Questions" below for more
DOT 3 brake fluid