Ford Trucks and SUVs

You will need to remove all vacuum hoses from the distributor (and don't forget to plug the hoses!). Next you will want to hook up a timing light and then take the hold-down bolt loose just enough so you can move it with some force (not too loose cuz then it'll move around after you got the timing set right). Then start the engine and warm it up (or warm it up before hand, either way timing has to be done on a warmed up engine, if the timing is so bad the car wont stay running, just get it close enough that it will stay running (adjust it one way, start the engine, if it stays running let it warm up, if it gets better than try going further, if it gets worse than go the other direction) and then warm it up). Once the engine is warmed up, turn on your timing light and point it at the harmonic balancer (the big thing that is attached to the crank, it will be the lowest thing attached to the front of the engine and it will be a good inch or two thick at least). Then, turn the distributor until the timing mark on the balancer lines up with the timing pointer (usually mounted on the engine at the top passenger side of the balancer). Once it lines up, shut the engine off, tighten the hold down bolt and start the engine again and double check the timing is still correct. After that shut the engine off again and connect the vacuum hoses and you should be good to go.

a/c compresser

On top of your rear axle (pumpkin) just above the drive shaft yolk it has two wires sticking out of it.

if some doors are not unlocking, i would test the door lock master switch you migh also check that the master switch is not locked fords have a lock/unlock swith on the switch panel to stop all other doors working easy way to test master control switch is to remove switch from door,and disconect the wire plug in. use a jumber wire to cross the terminals to each door from power supply if the switch is bad,each door will unlock when crossed. so if doors will unlock this way, replace switch other than that the only other problem i have found is the actuators inside the doords. these are a pain to replace and are not cheap as each door has one. try the switch first

The owners manual shows : Motorcraft MERCON Multi - Purpose ATF ( automatic

transmission fluid ) Your transmission dipstick should have the type of fluid used

for your 4R70W automatic transmission

Momentum is mass times velocity. Without knowing the speed of the rocket, momentum cannot be calculated.

strong suction cups

a truck that dumps....

one

You will need to unbolt the motor and transmission from their mounts. jack up the motor, drain and remove the lower oil pan. That should give you access to the pump. If your going to do it you might want to change your main barrings at the same time.

automatic

most vehicles have the belt routing under the hood if this is no longer available some auto part stores have a manual [book] that will show this

yes

According to www . motorcraft . com ( no spaces ) .021 inch for the point gap on a 1970 Ford truck 302 cubic inch V8

All ford v8's are the same. As you face the engine with crankshaft pulley in front of you, Cylinder numbers are 1-4 on the left side counting from front to rear and numbers 5-8 are on the right counting from front to rear. However, the firing order is different on the 351, 351W and 400. This is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, at least, it is in the years 71-78.

Most of these trucks have Dana 60s in the front of them. Look up the markings of a "Dana" axle on Google and the ID charts should help you identify your axle.

R134a

1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

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actually , it's 1 - 5 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 3 - 7 - 8

The distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces to the REAR

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front

6 degrees btdc

I can't speak for that specific model but if your truck is less than 10 years old the answer is probably no, O2 sensors are very unlikely to cause rough running. More likely a vacuum leak or maybe an injector.

F100 1961-1966

According to Fordification.com... "Installing a factory Ford wiper delay setup in your classic pickup is one of the little things that make day-to-day driving so much more convenient. Ford did not start using these until '78, but the good news is the '78-'79 setups will plug right into your existing wiring. Look for these setups in XLT Rangers and Broncos." http://www.fordification.com/wiperdelay.htm Installing a factory wiper-delay setup by Chris Pate and Keith Dickson

Hook up the red wire to the fuse box or another wire that gives power when the key is on. Hook up the white wire to a wire coming out of the headlight switch. This will make is so that when you turn your headlights on, the light will come on on the tach. If you don't mind the light on the tach being on all the time then just hook it to another power wire. Hook the black wire to a ground like a screw or a bolt. The green wire is the signal wire. Run it through your fire wall. Hook it up to the negative side of the coil. There will be a negative sign on the coil denoting the correct side.

my truck started to smoke from the rear end when I was driving down the high way and now its jerking around WHY or What would be the cause