Honda Civic DX

That slight ticking sound is probably the injectors firing which is normal.

75 a piece for labor 125 each strut

i replaced mine twice, you can bring it out through the top end of the car but get it has a bolt from underneath the car, you need to take off the intake (plastic part) as well as the brake cylinder, as it is a tight fit, however it only comes up out of the engine and cannot be removed from the bottom, don't forget to disconnect battery before working on the car.

Actually this is not completely true. It is very possible to remove the alternator from the bottom of a 1998 Honda Civic. In order to replace the alternator you must remove the plastic air hose and air filter box (make sure to stuff the throttle body assembly with a clean rag). Next remove those brackets that are in your way holding the electrical connections near the alternator so that you can get your hands in there. After this is done you are ready to start removing the alternator first remove the top two bolts holding the alternator and the adjusting mount, and remove the negative connection to the alternator. Then jack the car up and remove the driver side tire (this will give you access to the lower mounting bolt). Next get under the car (after securely raising your Honda) and remove the small screw from behind the alternator. Then remove the lower alternator bolt, alternator with a long screw driver (to pry it out) and move the belt. Then remove the alternator mount (there are 2 bolts there). This is the tricky part turn the wheel all the way to the driver side. Then get the plastic molding covering the drive belts out of the way and start lowering the alternator so that you can make it side in to the opening the turn it until you get it out.**** To install do the reverse but make sure (*****) to push or pull (how ever it will work for you) the spacer on the mount, so that the inside of the mount where the alternator will go is flush (?? this is key).

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More than one way to skin a cat

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1) I took of the neg connect on the battery.

2) Put the car on jack stands and removed the drivers side tire

3) Removed the five or six 10mm bolts that hold the plastic air duct in place.

4) Pulled the air duct or whatever you want to call it out. Make sure to put this back in, the car will be noisy and may not cool as well without this part.

5) Removed the wires from the alternator.

6) Took out the two bolts holding the alternator in

7) Removed the two bolts holding the mount bracket in.

8) The Alternator was loose but could not be removed.

The wheel and the drive shaft were not a problem for me but the alternator would not fit between the engine and the frame.

9) I put my floor jack (with some wood) under a solid lift point on the engine and jacked the engine up about ½ of an inch. This made enough room to remove the alternator.

Slipped the new one in and did the above steps in reverse. This car has about 210,000 miles. Not bad for an alternator, not bad at all.

The cost: Two pieces of pizza, four bud lights, one broken finger nail and about 60 minutes. Oh and $130 for the new alternator.

THIS IS HOW I DID IT

This is a general overview of how I replaced the alternator in my 1997 civic LX. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Jack the car up, position your jack stands, remove the driver's side tire. Remove the two bolts from the top of the alternator (12mm & 14mm). Unplug the green connector from the back of the alternator. Remove the terminal wire (the one protected by a black rubber boot) which is held on by a nut.

From the bottom, remove the small bracket (used to keep wiring in place) connected to the alternator by a screw or small bolt. Remove the long slide bolt from the alternator (14mm I believe). The alternator should now be free, from the bottom, push it out of its bracket and position it out of the way. You'll now need to remove that bracket that held the alternator in place (14mm I believe).

Remove the car's oil filter. You'll now be able to slide the alternator out from the bottom. It's a tight fit but it should come out. Before installing the bracket back in the car, make sure the new alternator fits inside of it. The new alternator may not fit and you'll have to adjust the spacers. I used a hammer to do this.

Repeat the process to install the new alternator. To tighten the belt, you'll be using the top 12mm bolt. Using a long tool or crow bar, you can push the alternator towards the fire wall, once you have the correct tightness of the belt, fully tighten the top 12mm bolt. Before starting the car, replace the oil filter and add oil if needed!

Word of caution, I tried two different "remanufactured" alternators from the big car parts store down the street. Both were bad, do yourself a favor, and don't get a remanufactured alternator! Spend the extra money and get a new one, I got mine from KOI/Savage. Best of luck!

Yes, it will physically fit pretty easily. However if you are asking if it is a straight swap, no. You will need to convert from OBD-0 to OBD-I and a few other things to make it work and that is more tricky. Try searching "D16Z6 into EF" for more details (EF is the chassis code for your car and is the more common name) ~ZPrime

what is the engine code??

by doining sex

This here is a list of the wires for the main wiring harness using a P28 OBD1 CIVIC ecu. This is the harness that lies inside of the cabin against the firewall, not the engine harness that connects to the main harness at the strut towers. The plug "A" is the largest of the three, "B" is the smallest, aslo in the center, and the "D" plug is the middle sized plug.

A1 BRN INJ1 INJ1

A2 YEL INJ4 INJ4

A3 RED INJ2 INJ2

A4 ORN/WHT VTS VTEC solenoid

A5 LT BLU INJ3 INJ3

A6 ORN/BLK PO2SHTC O2 sensor (heating element)

A7 GRN/YEL FLR1 fuel pump

A8 (empty)

A9 GRN/WHT IACV IAC valve

A10 (empty)

A11 (empty)

A12 YEL/GRN FANC Fan Output

A13 GRN/ORN MIL MIL (check engine light)

A14 (empty)

A15 BLK/RED ACC (a/c compressor clutch)

A16 WHT/YEL ALT C alternator

A17

A18 (empty)

A19 (a/t trans only)

A20 RED PCS EVAP purge control solenoid

A21 RED/GRN ICM ICM

A22 (empty)

A23 BLK PG1 ground

A24 BLK PG2 ground

A25 YEL/BLK IGP2 to main relay and to gound for o

A26 BRN/BLK LG1 gound

B1 YEL/BLK IGP2 to pin A25

B2 BRN/BLK LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC

B3 (a/t trans only)

B4 (a/t trans only)

B5 BLU/RED ACS a/c switch

B6 (empty)

B7 (a/t trans only)

B8 BRN/RED PSPSW PSP switch

B9 BLU/WHT clutch interlock switch

B10 YEL/BLU VSS vehicle speed sensor

B11 ORN CYP P CYP -P

B12 WHT CYP M CYP -M

B13 ORN/BLU TDC P TDC -P

B14 WHT/BLU TDC M TDC -M

B15 BLU/GRN CKP P CKP -P

B16 BLU/YEL CKP M CKP -M

D1 WHT/BLU VBU Back Up Power

D2 GRN/WHT BKSW brake switch

D3 KS Knock Sensor

D4 BRN SCS service check connector

D5 (empty)

D6 ORN/BLU VTM VTEC pressure switch

D7 LT BLU TXD/RXD (data link connector)

D8 (empty)

D9 PNK ALT F alternator

D10 GRN/RED ELD electric load detector

D11 RED/BLU TPS TPS Signal

D12 YEL/GRN

D13 RED/WHT ECT ECT sensor

D14 WHT PHO2S O2 sensor

D15 RED/YEL IAT IAT sensor

D16 WHT/YEL VREF VREF

D17 WHT MAP Map Signal

D18 (a/t trans only)

D19 YEL/GRN VCC1 MAP 5V

D20 YEL/WHT VCC2 TPS 5V

D21 GRN/BLU SG1 MAP GND

D22 GRN/WHT SG2 TPS GND

Pull the triagular black plastic. The hook is in the center. It should come out easily. Then unscrew the three nuts. Remove the old mirror and replace with the new one and tighten the nuts. Place the triangular plastic back in place.

Well for starters the starter should be on the right side of the engine under neath the the distributer and if you follow the positive cable that s hooked to the battery you should see it if you follow it and then you will see some other wires and bolt s holding the starter and of course if you still can see it the starter is on top of the transmission.

disconnect battery, remove the serp belt, unbolt the alt, and take off the wires then put the new one in the way the old came off

Located in the gas tank.

in the fuel tank. on a coupe, it is under rear seat.

chances are that your car uses a computer. Check it out with your mechanic. If your try and time it yourself without ajusting the computer settings your may stuff your electronics. best to check and be safe.

The cost of a new blower motor for a 1991 Honda Civic ranges between 60.00 and 80.00 as of 2014. Labor to install ranges from 50.00 to 75.00 an hour.

Disconnect plug under driver's seat.

Inside the distributor just under the distributor cap.

in the gas tank. once you lower the gas tank and disconnect the lines, there are 6 ten-mm bolts holding the pump in the tank.

yes its a car, whats the question?

The A/C compressor should have a fuse/relay located (I believe) in the under-hood fuse box. Remove the fuse box cover, turn it over, and on the interior of the cover there should be an embossed diagram of what fuse/relay belongs to what system.

1.5 ls v-tech

Depends on what you want or need. Manual's great for performance and motorsport, cheap and offers decent fuel economy. Automatics are convenient and comfortable, perfect for stop-start urban traffic. It comes to a matter of taste or preference.

Between 2055 and 2090LBS for the MT equipped hatchback.

2210LBS for an AT equipped hatchback.

The battery is dead, the connection is bad, the terminals are corroded, the starter is bad, the solenoid is bad.

almost all of them should fit

Hi, I have a honda civic 1991 ex, the blower motor no work 1 and 2 speed