Jeep Cherokee

a fork

my '91 was a beast to get in to 4WD but by using the following procedure it was fairly easy. with the vehicle running, apply the foot brake and put the transmission in neutral. with your RIGHT hand, pull back on the transfer case handle until it will no longer move easily (its not in 4WD yet). once you get to this point, put the transmission in drive while at the same time pulling the rest of the way on the transfer case handle. the handle should "slip" right in to 4WD. good luck!

On the passengers side of the trans about even with the front of the door fan shaped switch held on by two bolts.

I suggest taking it apart and cleaning it before you think about replacing.

The switch is nearly $300

To remove, flatten out the retaining washer side under nut, remove large nut, remove smaller ( 14mm ) bolt on the adjustment side. Connector for the wires is top left of engine at the firewall, black connector with about 8 wires, you will need to snip 3 or so zip ties to get it free.

cleaning is easy, 6 screws in back, pull apart, clean out all that old grease, pay special attention to the two contacts on the sweeper arm, they should move in and out easily as they have springs underneath and are the man contacts, apply new di-electric grease and reassemble.

reassemble and align before tightening, easiest way is to put trans selector in R and move switch until reverse lights come on.

Not an OBDII, it is ODBI. the connector is the black "L" shaped connector near the battery.

Not an OBDII, it is ODBI. the connector is the black "L" shaped connector near the battery.

You don't. the distributor is set at 0 degrees and the computer does the rest. With the crank at tdc, set the distributor at #1.

bottom of rad you will see a small drain valve

I just did this repair. First remove the air box. (three bolts). Next remove the right radiator fan (two screws). Now you have plenty of room to remove the hose. Use channel locks for the hose clamps. (remove). Remove hose. Buy new hose clamps. reverse to install. Fill radiator with 50/50 anti-freese. run motor check for leaks. top off radiator again. fill reservouir. there you have it.

2.5L

Take a look at the distributor cap. It should have a "1" on it. That goes to the front of the engine. The rotor turns clockwise when looking at it from the front. The next wire is going to be 3. Plug that wire into the 3rd plug from the front. The next one is 2. Plug that wire into the 2nd plug. The final one is 4. Plug that into the furthest plug.

93 goes like this: remove plastic cover. remove key/lock module (need tamper proof torques tips. To get to the guts you need to drill out hollow rivets. To replace you need to ? (I drilled new holes then pilot holes in the plastic so i could install screws ... counter sunk to keep case flush) The key activates parts that are made of pot metal and break if forced. I drilled and inserted a drive pin to replace the front edge of the contact surface which was broken off.

good luck

it may be a number of things.... the air blend doors get brittle and break then they fall and lay over the heater core blocking the hot air .... or the air blend door actuator may have broken which does not allow the blend doors to switch from hot to cold ..or cold to hot ..... or the heater core itself cold have gone bad

It is normal for some water to come out of the exhaust when you first start an engine, especially on a cold day. This is nothing more than condensation. But if this water smells sweet, you see white smoke, you are loosing coolant with no apparent leak, your engine has now or has in the recent past over heated, oil level is over full, you may have a blown head gasket or cracked head or both. Stop driving the car until you get this repaired. Severe engine damage will occur if you continue to drive this car.

Drive-shaft out of balance?

Bad Universal joint?

Tire / wheel out of balance

check the spark plug wires and the distributor cap wires

Yes

Danny Thomas

Look at the upper end of the brake pedal almost under dash

- Check the battery

- Check charging system

- Check the starter

- Check the ground cable to the starter

- Check the fuse(s) for the starter

Well, weigh your mother and reduce it by about 500 lbs and that's your answer.

Check the crank angle sensor usually about $150 to replace

Check heatertreater.net for diagnostic information.

First, make sure that the service brakes are adjusted properly. The adjustment will be either at the junction of the 3 cables under vehicle or at the handle itself. You may have to remove trim for access if it is under the handle. It is supposed to be best if it clicks 3 times; however you can have it go as far as you feel is most comfortable.

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!! Remove the drivesaft first. then remove the crossmember and the transmission mount. From there, you will want to go ahead and remove any electrical conectors from the transmission. Remove the linkage and/or the MLPS on the side of the transmission. turn the flywheel and remove all of the torque converter bolts. Start taking out the bell housing bolts and remove the starter bolts as well. Be sure to have a jack under the transmission for support as it starts to come back and down from the engine. slowly bring it down enough to pry the dipstick tube free from the transmission. A little lower and the cooler lines should be accessable to be removed. once they are removed, bring the transmission down slowly making sure not to snag on any electrical connections on the way down.. NOTE: in some models it may be nececarry to remove a portion of the exhaust to remove the transmission..

Macs Transmissions (Houston, TX) 281-394-4951 Macstransmissions@gmail.com

have your fuel system purged and cleaned. You can have this done at most shops for around $90

You will probably need a special tool available from most auto parts stores. The tool should be flat and you hold it against the door panel and then slide it behind the window crank until it comes in contact with the clip that holds the window crank in place. The clip fits in a slot and has some tension, so it may fly a short distance when released. After the clip is removed, the window crank should just pull off. To reinstall, just reverse the procedure and use the tool to push the clip back in the groove. It just pops off. No tools required, just pull on it.

It is on the same circuit as the brake lights, but if they are not working, and the bulbs are good your switch needs cleaning or adjustment.

Attempt this first since the switch costs nearly $300 bucks.

On the passengers side of the trans just behind the bell housing there is a fan shaped switch, loosen the 12mm bolt ( smaller of the two, and rotate the switch while a friend checks the lights. this problem is usually accompanied by an occasional inability to start the vehicle, but can be cured by jiggling the shifter.

While adjusting the switch make sure that the vehicle will start in park as well, remember to block the wheels while testing the back up lights, engine off, key in run but not start, shifter in reverse, move switch until lights come on.

Once you find this spot, hold it in place and have your helper check to make sure it will start. This may take several tries to get both working correctly.

If you have no luck the switch may be dirty, this happens a lot. Hold the post to the bottom large bolt still while you loosen the nut, then remove it, then remove the 12mm adjusting bolt on top, remove the wire connector and pull the switch away, remove the bolts on the switch and separate the halves, use electrical contact cleaner and maybe some q-tips to clean all the copper connections completely apply di-electric grease and reassemble, refit to the trans and readjust so all functions work, this switch controls back up and start safety.

Caution! always hold that bottom bolt while tightening the large nut, this is connected to the gear adjuster and you could damage the internals if it isn't secured while you do it.