Jeep Grand Cherokee

The blower motor is failing and drawing too many amps.

First, make sure that the service brakes are adjusted properly. The adjustment will be either at the junction of the 3 cables under vehicle or at the handle itself. You may have to remove trim for access if it is under the handle. It is supposed to be best if it clicks 3 times; however you can have it go as far as you feel is most comfortable.

this was my first jeep project a year ago--since then I've done it 3 times.

bought the part for $70 online, took me 2 hours to do. now i can knock it out in about an hour.

jeep dealership wanted $325 to do it. Anyone can do this!

(sorry ahead of time for the lack of technical terms--but I'm going to describe items as easiest i can so you can spot them)

parts: Phillips head screwdriver, flat head screw driver, putty knife/ industrial razor blade, needle nose pliers, ratchet set

*disconnect battery

*use Phillips screw driver to unscrew all visible screws on the face of the door (should be just 2----1 behind door handle, 1 in the door grip)

*using a flat head screw driver, you're going to gently insert it along the edge of the plastic face and shimmy it back and forth to loosen the clips holding the face of the door to the metal frame of the door. be careful! in case one clip breaks, you can buy packs of these from Auto parts stores for $3

*once you have the last Clip popped out, hold the face of the door, and disconnect the electrical connectors from the Window control, and disconnect the 2 rods that operate the door handle & lock. these 2 rods will then hang from the plastic Door Face that you'll be placing off to the side. it's ok.

*now take out all of those Clips & place them onto the plastic Door Face you just removed---it'll make installation a breeze.

*to remove the water seal shroud, use the putty knife to gently scrape from top to bottom as you peel it away--try your best NOT to cut into the shroud. a little black residue will remain on the metal door, but most should come off with the shroud itself. place this shroud off to the side--careful NOT to place it sticky-side down! manuever this away from the door & slide the 2 metal rods through the pre-cut holes.

*disconnect the Speaker from the power cable & the audio cable. unscrew the speaker (4 to 5 screws) and place to the side.

*you can now see the Regulator & window assembly. slide the window to the bottom of the door. you should see 2 small clips holding the window to the Regulator. using Needle nose pliers, pull the small bronze clips out (careful not to drop them into the door frame) and place to the side.

*using 2 hands, slide the window up to the uppermost you can get it.

(some sites will instruct you to remove it, i found an easier way)

slide the window up as far as it will go---and use the Water plastic guards to prop it up. standing between the door & the seat, press the window outward. prop it using one hand, and press the Water plastic guards (small black lining at the bottom of the window where it meets the frame) towards the window & down. do this along the entire water guard. do this to both sides of the window. OR--simpler solution--get Packagin Tape & tape the window UP over the door frame

*using the ratchet, loosen the regulator & rail (4 bolts total). then, (this can be done--just takes some time to get it right), shimmy the regulator/rail out through the largest hole. I've done this 3 times, trust me--you can manoeuver it just right to do this. flip the motor from its original position (left or right of the rail) to the opposite side of the rail (left or right of the rail) and tilt it side ways, then pull it out through the largest hole in the door frame.

installation is the opposite of removal.

*note--the sticky black goo on the Water shroud will stay sticky for a while until you re-adhere it to the door frame, but if you let it sit in the cold, it will eventually harden & you'll have to use a blow-dryer to get it back to its sticky-ness. technical, i know.

Here's a great video that will show you the entire process. It's pretty easy.

You will not die.

i have water on passengers side floorboard idoes this have something to do w/airconditioner

Okay I own a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.0 L engine in it and I have also encountered this problem. The clicking sound that you here may be a relay in the glove compartment. This however is not the problem. Check the #8 fuse in the fuse box. It should be a 15 amp blue fuse. It controls power locks, keyless entry and interior lighting as well. Hope that answers your question

I need a year and engine size in order to provide an answer.

The CV Joints are shot and need replacing. You may also have what I have - failure of the viscous coupler in the quadra-trac transfer case. My '98 jeep would have a lot of tension/binding when making tight turns like u-turns or 90 degrees turns to park etc. This is a sign of the front and rear differentials being 'locked' together via the transfer case. This is a common failing to the quadra-trac transfer case. Check jeep forums for more info. One potentially better solution than to replace it with the same failure prone product is to revert to a selec-trac transfer case. Have to make sure you get the right thing to bolt it up correctly. This gives you selectable full-time 4WD (like quadra-trac 4WD High), 2WD drive, part-time 4WD high/low, and neutral. Note 'part-time 4WD' is misleading. In part-time the front and rear differentials are locked together and it is only for use on loose surfaces (i.e offroad) which is typical only used part-time.

Check the oil level in the car.

Answer 1 Fuses [and circuit breakers] are designed and intended to protect an electrical conductor [wire] and it's insulation from damage resulting from overheating of the wire conductor. In worst case senarios, fire can result from circuit overloading.

A conductor overheats when more electrical current [measured in Amps] is forced through it by the power draw of an attached device drawing more current than the wire/conductor/circuit was designed or intended to safely carry. Designers first determine a circuit's wire size based on the amount of current the device [lights, or power window or seat motors, or fuel pump for a few examples] will need to operate properly. Once the necessary wire size is determined, the next step is to select a fuse size that will allow the amount of current needed, plus a little extra, to pass, BUT which will "blow" out if a larger current demand should happen to occur. To my knowledge there are only TWO CAUSES of a fuse blowing overload condition: 1. More equipment [like adding on accessorys such as sound equipment and especially large amplifiers for example], or larger equipment attached to and being supplied by the circuit than the circuit was designed for. 2. A short circuit [contact of the conductor with something which is grounded]. The repeated failure of a fuse in a certain circuit is a "red flag" / warning signal that something is not right with that circuit, and a strong warning to troubleshoot that circuit to determine WHY there is a continuing overload. Once the cause of the overload is determined, that problem should becorrected, and then the fuse for that circuit should not continue to fail. Do NOT be a FOOL by installing a larger fuse as it probably will result in severe overheating which could totally destroy the wiring harness, expensive equipment attached to the circuit, or create a fire which could severely damage or destroy your vehicle!!!!! And IF the vehicle should be parked in your garage overnight when the "final" failure occurs, your home and your LIFE could be in jepordy.j3h

According to Haynes, this represents a misfire in cylinder 6.

It goes to the ac/heater control head.

if there is any play at all in the drive shaft, side to side your universal joint(s) are bad.

You can do this without crawling under the vehicle by cycling the trans from D to R and listening for a clunk.

To find the bad one though, you'll need to get under there and wiggle the driveshafts.

It's really not that hard. To change the Front brake pads (the rear are similar):

1) After jacking and supporting the Jeep, remove the wheel.

2) Use a C clamp (about 6" to 8") to compress the piston.

3) Remove the 2 Hex Key slide bolts that are under the plactic caps. Clean the bolts and set them in a clean place. These Hex Key bolts are Metric. If I remember correctly, they are 7 or 9mm.

4) Remember, hang the removed caliper on a piece of wire or tie-strap. Never allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose.

5) Remove the pads and get a new set. There are 2 different kinds calipers for this Jeep and they use different pad sets. You can't tell which one it is on OEM callipers until you remove it.

6) Insert new pads being carefull not to get any grease or oil on them. It usually comes off your hands or fingers.

7) Place caliper on rotor.

8) Lubricate the Slide Pins. sometimes the lube comes with the new pads but other times it doesn't. Find out before you bring the new pads home 'cause there is a special lube for the slide pins.

9) Install the slide pins and tighten them to 25-30 foot pounds.

10) Reinstall wheel, lower and you're done.

11) APPLY BRAKE PEDAL 3 TO 4 TIMES UNTIL THE BRAKE PEDAL FEELS FIRM OR WHEN YOU PUT IT IN GEAR YOU WILL RUN INTO WHAT EVER IS IN FRONT OR BACK AS YOU WILL HAVE NO BRAKES

12) Seat the brake pads, the methods vary but the first 3-5 applications while driving will have less than desired braking so allow extra space for stopping

The serpentine belt goes around all of your pullies in the front of your motor, behind the radiator.

The easiest way is the check the model number to the right of the cover on the axle web itself. If it's a D44 it should say "44."

You can also tell by the shape of the cover as well. The D35 and Chrysler 8.25 were closer to an oval shape, where the D44 is taller through the middle with straighter sides.

1998 was a crossover year for Jeep and two different HVAC systems were used. Check the HeaterTreater Ebay listings or web site at www.heatertreater.net to determine which system you have and an effective replacement kit.

cgallen

5w30

You could Install a battery cut-off switch or Connect an amp meter to determine parasytic load on battery or Connect a test lamp in series with battery if there is an excessive drain the light will illuminate-then pull each fuse one at a time until the light goes out and that will indicate which circuit is draining battery and repair from there or could be a bad voltage regulator

It is in the center of the rear of the axle.

If you're pedal vibrates with the brake applied, it indicates that the front brake rotors are worn unevenly. Imagine a set of rolling hills and the pads trying to follow the peaks and valleys. That same up and down motion is transferred to your foot, and that's the pulsation you're feeling. It's a common problem on many cars, including the Jeep. The best cure is to have the rotors machined "on the car" using a special machine. This trues the rotors on the same plane as the hub they are mounted to. Also need to make sure the brake calipers are operating smoothly and the wheels are properly torqued when reinstalled.

My first gues would be that you've used a bulb with the wrong wattage. There are some dual-filament bulbs that can be inserted the wrong way.

1997 and earlier models: With out starting the engine, turn the ignition key on, off,on, off, and finally on. The check engine light on the dash will begin to flash. The light will flash the first number of the first digit pause and flash the number of the second digit. Example:Five flashes, pause,three flashes= Code 53 PCM failure or Code 54 no cam shaft position sensor signal from distributor etc, etc.Or most auto zones will do it for free.