Lexus ES

It's to the right side of the engine underneath a black panel.

yes...DO IT!!!!! but u need to widen your guards and take out your stock mud insulators

Assuming you want to check or replace the air filter... There is a big black plastic box on the driver (left) side of the engine. It has 2 spring clips on the end nearest the left fender. It also has a hose about 3" diameter that has screw clamps holding it in place. Pop open the spring clips, and loosen the hose clamp screw (the one closest to the filter box) and you can lift the lid on the box to expose the filter inside.

It depends on what fuse that you want to look for. For a common things, the fuse box is under the dash panel of the driver side. Dan

The gas tank on the 2009 Lexus ES-350 holds 18.5 gal..

Yes.

Anyplace that sells batteries can tell you the correct size to purchase.

how do you change the tire on a lexus gs 300?

This is the procedure for Lexus vehicles 2003 and older.

Lexus Key and Remote Programming

Key Programming

1. Insert an already programmed master key into the ignition. Do not turn.

2. Press and release the gas pedal 5 times.

3. Press and release the brake pedal 6 times.

4. Remove the key from the ignition.

5. Insert the new key you want to program into the ignition.

6. Press and release the gas pedal one time.

7. Wait 1 minute. The security light will be blinking for this one minute. When it stops blinking your key is programmed. To end programming step on brake one time.

NOTE: Look for your security light. This light will guide you during the programming procedure. The security light will go off at Step 1. It will remain off until Step 6. The security light will come on and start to blink after Step 6 until the key is programmed. If the security light comes on after Step 4 STOP the procedure and start over again.

If you perform this procedure too slowly your car will not go into programming mode. If you can not get your car to go into programming mode make sure you are using a master key and not a valet key. If you have a master key then you will probably need to perform this procedure more quickly.

Remote Programming

1. Close and lock all doors. Unlock and open drivers door.

2. Put key into ignition and remove. Do not turn it on.

3. Using the electric lock switch. Lock and unlock 5 times. (Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock)

4. Close and open drivers door.

5. Using the electric lock switch. Lock and unlock 5 times. (Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock)

6. Put key into ignition. Turn to "ON" , turn off and remove.

7. You will see the door locks cycle by themselves.

If the door locks do not cycle (lock and unlock) by themselves then the car isn't in programming mode and you must start over.

8. On the remote, press and hold the LOCK and the UNLOCK button at the same time for no more than 2 seconds.

9. On the remote, press the LOCK button for no more than 1 second.

AT THIS POINT, the locks should cycle by themselves ONE time. This means the procedure was accepted.

IF the locks cycle twice it has failed.

The most common reason for programming failure is because the car didn't receive a good signal from the remote. To fix this problem try these tips. 1) Stand outside of the car while you are performing steps 8 and 9. 2) Don't hold the remote buttons down as long.

As long as the car is still in programming mode you can keep trying steps 8 and 9 until you complete the programming. If you wait too long and the car exits the programming mode then you must start over.

After you get the remote to program then continue on with step 10.

10. Close and open door to end programming procedure.

Coolant reservoir, or directly in the radiator. If you are having to add much coolant, you need to find out why. Serious engine damage can occur if it is leaking inside the engine.

On either side opf the car, there is a spring type wire that holds the bulb in place,(it is located under the rubber boot) undo the wire clip and the bulb assembly will fall out, or you may need to pull slightly. Be sure to bring the old bulb with you unless you are buying OEM parts(from Lexus parts). Many auto parts stores list the bulb as one that has a 90 degree bend where the plug is, but on my Lexus, it is a straight bulb.

this procedure is correct, but first see if you can unplug the bulb from the harness, it is a dual connection, (harness to the socket-socket to the bulb), had me fooled for a minute but came to this answer and was great info.

Also, this may seem obvious to some, the boot pulls off! I tried to work around it for an hour before it came off in my hands. Then it was cake! So, pull off the connector, grab the tabs on the boot and pull it loose, pull the boot off the connector, then unhook the spring and pull the lamp/connector out.

If you don't hear a small click of a relay behind the dash when pushing the trunk release switch, check to see that the cancel button in the glove box (left side) is not activated. This will disable the remote trunk release. It should normally be pressed in to allow the trunk release button on your dash to work, and left out to deactivate trunk lock controls for higher security. Also note the service manual refers to the trunk as the "luggage compartment door" if you are trying to look for the details in the service manual schematic. At this point you should know that Lexus had a design defect in the wire harness at the left trunk lid hinge. Flexing the cable when the lid opens and closes, after many years, tends to fatigue the conductors in the wires because there wasn't enough slack. They tend to break one-by-one and be intermittant. Some control the license plate lights, tail & stop lights, trunk release, etc., and may cause strange things to occur in the electrical system when other things turn on, like when the brakes are applied. One way to test the latch is to have someone slowly open the trunk lid while pushing the trunk release switch repeatedly. If it starts to work in a certain position, then you found the problem. This test is not guaranteed, but it's quick and saves time because you don't have to disassemble anything. Inspect the wire harness as it goes through its motion and there will probably be a suspicious sharp bend point close to the main harness. This is a problem area, and to repair, you will have to strip all the tape and wire conduit carefully from the lid hinge to the main wire harness it connects to. Eventually, you should find one or two limp wires at the sharpest bend point. They will have to be cut, stripped and soldered, or apply crimp terminals or equivalent. Once fixed, tape back up allowing for more free movement so that no point has excess stress on it; no sharp bends. To inspect the solenoid at the lock directly.... remove the panel on the inside of the trunk lid. This is held in by push pins which can be gently lifted up with a flat blade screwdriver and reused later. The plug to the solenoid, or motor as it is called in the manual, can then be squeezed to release it. This exposes two terminals. The one towards the front (blue) is terminal 1 going to the motor. The other goes to a switch. Do not test by applying power to the position switch located in the motor assembly. Only apply test voltage to the pin which went to the blue wire for the latch motor. Terminals are accessible with probes. The motor is grounded to the lid, so you have to ground the negative side of your test power source to the car body. If you can't access the terminals, two bolts hold the trunk release solenoid mechanism to the trunk lid. You'll have to detach the emergency trunk release arm and keyed trunk release arm from the solenoid mechanism. You can then apply 12V to the solenoid connector terminal going to the blue wire. If the solenoid functions when power is applied, the problem will be in the wiring between the trunk lid and dash area. Removal shouldn't be necessary unless you really have to replace the assembly. Check the fuse associated with this control. On the 2001 model it is fuse number 38 in the fuse panel just behind the coin tray. Fuses may control power to several devices, so if other things are not working, the fuse is more likely blown. However, a blown fuse may indicate other power problems and is likely a symptom and not the cause. Good luck if the fuse is blown. Replace once and hope, but make sure the easy steps above aren't at fault first. These instructions are believed to be applicable to at least model years 1997 through 2001 inclusive.

Not to worry. The program for your heater/ac will not engage the ac option below a preset temperature. So even though it appears to be on it is really in standby. The ac comes on regardless of the temperature outside when the system is in defrost mode. This removes the moisture in the cabin air and helps clear the inside of the windshield quickly.

You will need to call the dealer and provide the id # If your lucky the previous owner may have written it down in the manuel near the radio section. Mine was.

usually the code is the last four numbers of the serial number

if you have a 3.0 you have to remove the windshield wiper water tank and the cooling tank and it will be right behind the alternator

okay first u remove the panel to the shfter with a flathead screwdriver,it comes off pretty easily try not to crack it by using too much force. Then u remove the 2 screws located on both side under the cigarette box. . Pull the whole unit then disconnect the connector to the lighter then remove it by pulling straight up.

You should open the front panel (clock inside). First insert two mini screwdriver-like pin (can be found in accessory toolkit box) into the small holes on left and right. After you pushed fully, you can pop out the panel. The navigation DVD hole can be found behind this popped-out panel. Select "Eject navigation DVD" from the touch screen menu and change the disk.

Yes, it has a horn. Please be more specific.

Use exactly what is recommended by Lexus as listed in your owners manual.

I have experience removing the harmonic balancer on a 92 ES300 which may be the same for several different model years. Per the service manual, there is a special tool which you could use to engage into the 2 holes surrounding the 19mm bolt. I did not have that tool so I will offer the following solution. The bolt will require a hefty 19mm socket such as the type used for an air impact driver. I used a 3/4 in. drive air impact driver with a compressor capable of producing at least 100psi. According to the service manual the bolt is only supposed to have about 140 ft. lbs. of torque, but my 1/2 in. drive air impact driver (which is supposed to produce about 200 ft. lbs of torque) would not remove the bolt. The 3/4 in. impact driver I rented produces in excess of 700 ft. lbs. of torque so it had no problem getting the bolt out. The bolt is a normal thread bolt (left/counter-clockwise to loosen). Once the bolt is out, you should have no problem working the balancer off by hand, although a puller is mentioned in the service manual. I personally have done more than one of these and never needed a puller. I can tell you that it is also possible to loosen the bolt by putting that same type of hefty socket on a good size breaker bar and bracing the breaker bar against the lower control arm and attempting to kick the motor over with the ignition key. HOWEVER, I don't recommend this due to the possibility of damaging the ring teeth on the flywheel or the starter, or both. Jeff

One possibility is that your sensor is bad...

You don't.

i think you mean evaporator (a/c ) leak. there is a small radiator looking component in the passenger side dash that can leak freon. its no fun to yank out to replace

I am guessing they mean Evaporative Emissions system leak. I would imagine you got this information when you had a check engine light scanned. What was the code? A leak in the Evap system cold be something as easy as a loose gas cap or much more difficult. good call on evap. leak instead of my guess of a/c. yes, loose gas cap or the evap. canister assembly. i have replaced a million of these. but you r right need to first smoke test then read data stream to ck. purge solenoid ect. yes, need to know code or at least description of fault. for the person asking the question.... an evap. leak is a leak in the fuel vapor filter system. no fuel vapor is to be unfiltered so a canister is installed. the system is under pressure ( very slight ) but has sensors to tell you if there is a leak and you r venting fuel vapor to the atmosphere. not a worry item, your car will not break down and will continue to drive the same. your car will not go into closed loop ( all systems clear ) until you fix this problem. so you might see a liitle bit of a drop in fuel economy.....again, have it ck ed