Mercury Sable

1986-1995

16 gal standard

SHO and Optional upgrade

18.4 or 18.6

1996-1999

16 gal ALL

2000-2007

18 gal

2008

20 or 20.5 gal

Based on my experience only..........I believe all 1999 Ford Tauruses have a 16 gallon tank. Mine does. Whether you ever are able to get to 16 gallons on a fill-up, is highly unlikely unless the tank is bone dry. There is a reserve. And even then, the pumps these days fill the cars so fast, that my 99 Taurus always takes at least another gallon or more, after auto shut off, ( I'm in NJ where they pump it for you, and get you the heck out!) if you stand there and pump it manually to more or less, "top it off".

The low fuel indicator will come on, but its based on what the gauge actually reads, not a preset indicator based on amt. of gas left in the tank. ( safely goes at least 25 miles if not more after that light comes on). And that fuel gauge varies quite a bit during a driving session, with going up and down hills, etc.. The gauge always registers higher when going downhill, and lower while going uphill. I've had the fuel light on and off and on again, back and forth because the gauge reads differently based on level, uphill, downhill.

Another thing.....be careful not to park your Taurus uphill with little fuel in the tank, it might not start the next time you use it. Seriously!

The best source of this information (and much more!) is the Owners Manual. See "Related Questions" below

my book says 16 gallons

-----------------

I have a 1998 Taurus and according to the VIN I should be only able to max out at 16 gal. But on multiple occassions I have put over 16 gal (16.8 on time) without the low fuel light coming on (and yes the gauge does work :-) )

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Then Why Do ALL of the Aftermarket Fuel Tank replacement companies, like Spectra & Doorman Products OFFER AN 18 GALLON REPLACEMENT TANK FOR ALL 1996-1999 TAURUS'? SPECTRA LISTS AN 18 GALLON AS P/N F39B & DOORMAN OFFERS P/N 576-140. BOTH LIST THE FORD "ID" # THAT IS ON THE OEM TANK AS EXAMPLE: 1997 FORD# F8DC-CB FROM DOORMAN'S WEBSITE & SPECTRA LISTS AS AN EXAMPLE 1997 FORD ID# F7DC-BA thru F7DCBD?? JUST CURIUOS....I KNOW WHAT THE OWNERS MANUAL SAYS (at least for my 1998 SHO) AS BEING 16 GALLONS. JUST DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHY A(2) DIFFERENT AFTERMARKET MANUFACTURERS WOULD SPEND THE $$ FOR "TOOLING" AN 18 GALLON, IF THERE WAS NO NEED TO DO SO.....JUST A THOUGHT & REQUIRES FURTHER INVESTIGATION IN MY OPINION.

That is a very tough question...

Generally speaking, the 'generations' roughly group this way:

* 1986 to around 1992 * 1993-1995 * 1996-1999

* 2000-03 (or so) It's going to come down the specific body parts involved and having to solicit expert information.

For example, I wanted a Taurus spoiler for my 98 Sable - the auto salvage yard guy said no-go, the entire back end was different, *including doors*.

Check with not only your local auto salvage yard, but body shops are another good source - find one that understands answering your questions is good potential customer relations.

Sidebar: mechanical interchangeability is much much higher - not a whole lot of difference between the two models.

You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Library.

The Autozone website offers free access to the Chilton's Repair Guide - see "Related Links" for the strut replacement procedures for the first 3 generations of Taurus / Sables And their struts.

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

I do not believe it's possible to remove the strut without disconnecting / removing the steering knuckle.

If you go ahead and do the struts, read up on the ball joint problem and be prepared to deal with it.

Ball Joint NOTE: the short-story is that the ball joint is likely to have to be cut in half to release the knuckle from the control arm.

I was on my 3rd Pittman Arm puller when I gave up and yanked the control arm from the vehicle and let my local 'real' (not chain-store type) auto parts store use a press on it to get the bottom 1/2 of the joint pressed out of the control arm. (took 8 tons of pressure!)

Other than that, it's pretty easy!

• If it were me, and it was, I would recommend replacing the bearings/hub assembly ($55), ball joint ($25) and outer tie-rod while you're at. Front-end Make-over

if you do not have a spring compressor, i suggest having the work done at a front end shop.

im not sure really how to replace them but if you are going to do it yoursself i would suggets to take the parts in and have them compressed some places to it for free

Compress the springs with a spring compression tool for that purposee and make sure you know what you are doing. Remove the struts. A motor manual from your local library would be helpful here.

after replacing a few strut assemblies on these cars (mostly sables and mostly pre-2000) I found the most difficult part is the pinch bolt holding the strut to the steering knuckle. a cheap shop press or a trip to a shop with a press to remove that particular bolt is more than worth the time and money. the first one i removed with a vice, 12lb sledge, a bruised hand, and more than a day of my time. second one: 15 min trip into town, $130 shop press, 15 min trip home, 20 min to assemble, pressed the bolt out in less than 5 min with no damage to the steering knuckle. go with the press, ;)

For the 1986-1988 Taurus / Sables, the headlight assembly doesn't come out very easily - makes bulb replacement a job for someone with small hands.

Starting 1989, the headlamp assembly is much more easily removed, making headlight and turn signal bulb replacement a breeze.

According to the Chilton's manual, there are only 3 nylon u-shaped clips holding the headlamp assembly in.

After releasing the headlight assembly:

# Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb. Now the headlamp is free to work with.

# Remove the bulb from the lamp assembly by pulling straight back.

Do not twist, as there are alignment slots built into the lamp assembly socket. It may take some effort to remove the lamp because it has a rubber o-ring type seal - try a bit of wiggling side-to-side while pulling

# Insert new bulb into headlight assembly - don't touch the glass - use gloves, paper towel, or similar

Make sure that the flat surface of the bulb socket is facing upward, and is firmly seated

# Re-attach retainer ring by rotating clockwise

# Reconnect the electrical harness

# Re-install headlamp assembly

* Do not touch the glass of the new halogen bulb - the oils in the skin will shorten the life-span of the new bulb, or possibly cause the bulb to explode when first turned on

If the bulb is accidentally touched, it should be cleaned with rubbing alcohol before being used

* I would also suggest referring to the Owners Manual (if it's still around ;)) - it'll have illustrated instructions on bulb replacement procedures.

See "Related Questions" and "Related Links" below for more unplug the plug going to the bulb, turn the black plastic ring the is going around the bulb and the bulb should come right out.

2 things the wipers and washers have in common:

• The fuse
• The control switch - on the multi-function switch / turn-signal stalk

Hopefully it'll be the fuse, but not uncommon for the multi-function switch to go bad too.

See "Related Questions" below for more specifics about both

A 13mm wrench will do the job very nicely.

Add in a good selection of socket extensions, and a 8 or 10mm socket for the wire connections.

See "Related Questions" below for much much more detail on replacing a Taurus/Sable starter

Yes. However the motors and transmissions need to be the same. Mercury Sables and Ford Tauruses share the same powerplant. So, if you have a 3.0L OHV V6 12V Vulcan motor then any Ford Taurus or Mercury Sable with the 3.0L OHV V6 12V Vulcan motor can supply you with a transmission.

However, if you have a 3.0L DOHC V6 24V Duratec motor, you MUST use a transmission from a Duratec motor.

There are also 2 different transmissions, the AX4S and the AX4N. They are not directly interchangeable, and would require a full PCM change as well as axleshafts.

The best choice would be to select a vehicle with the same motor and transmission for a trouble free drop in replacement, but it can come from either a Sable or Taurus without any issues.

In a repair shop such as the one i work at it would be around 650.00 parts and labor, that fuel pump is located in the fuel tank, a rather large job

Having just replaced mine today in a 98 Sable, I can tell you:

• Autozone runs $120 & 186 (without sending unit)
• RockAuto.com goes $89-265
• Ford Motorcraft branded parts: $200-400

Couple of notes

• NOT AN EASY JOB - if you're not sure, have a professional do it!
• You can buy a 'bare' pump that comes with the big o-ring, but don't forget the strainers - another $30
• There is a difference between the Vulcan/Flex fuel pumps versus the Duratec DOHC. Not the same pump.
• It is possible to cut your own access hole in the floor to avoid dropping the tank. I did that today modeled after information linked through TaurusCarClub.com
• I have had very good luck with used pumps. Save tons of money - and now that I have an access plate, I don't car if I have to do it again in a couple of years.
• When checking power, know that the power supply line, pink & black striped wire, is HOT for only a couple of seconds when turning the key to RUN.
• Don't forget to check the inertia / emergency shut-off switch in the trunk/back corner.

See "Related Questions" below for lots more about Taurus/Sable fuel pumps

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

I'd like to add to this answer. You'll have to remove the entire rear deck cover panel. To do this, you'll need to remove your back seat. Unless your lucky enough to have fold down seat backs. The best way to remove a rear deck is to follow these guidelines: Remove snaps using a panel removal tool. Remove third brake light casing, carefully, if necessary. Remove other obstructions such as speaker grilles, speakers, seats, panels, seatbelts, etc. Gently lift around the perimeter of the deck. Also, look inside the trunk, if there is a courtesy cover covering the underbelly of the rear deck, then that has to be carefully removed as well. It is held into place with black plastic "snaps". Like plastic screws, escpt they don't screw in or out, they get pulled out with a special tool. Otherwise the break and have to be replaced later.

With the hood open, look at the right / driver's side of the firewall - at the bottom of the wiper arm.



There's a black cylinder shaped part there - it's the wiper motor.

• Disconnect the power connector
  
• Remove the driver's side wiper arm (that's what the "book" says - wonder if it's needed?)
  
• 1986-1990 models, remove the cowl screen
  1991-1995 models, lift the cowl screen on the passenger side
  
• Remove the wiper operating arm (silver bar) - pull the clip-latch / locking tab back and pull the arm away (just press it on when putting it back together)
• Take out the mounting screws/bolts from the motor & bracket assembly to remove the motor/bracket from the firewall
  

See "Related Questions" below for more about the VSS

The speed sensors are also used as a part of the cruise control system.

Many people seem to believe that there is a governor attached to the speed sensors. There is no evidence that a governor exists on any Ford or GM product.

There are literally dozens and dozens of reasons - especially when we can't narrow the list down without any symptoms to work with.

• Does the starter work and turn the engine over?
• Does the engine sound like it's trying to fire, or just "cold-cranking"?
• Starter doesn't turn the engine, but here are the sounds I hear?
• Age / condition of the battery

What about the current condition of...

• Fuel / air system -
  • Age / condition of air filter?
  • fuel filter - been changed recently?
  • fuel pump can be, or cannot be heard running when turning the key to the RUN position?
• Spark - age / condition of:
• • Spark plugs
  • Spark plug wires
  • Coil
• Miscellaneous factors
  • Check engine light (CEL) is on?
  • CEL Computer diagnostic trouble codes?
  • How has the vehicle been running - any trouble or symptoms prior to the no-start?
  • Any dashboard warning lights?

These are just some of the types of things to consider when trying to diagnose/trouble-shoot a no-start condition.

Bear in mind when asking trying to write an effective question: the reader is not there with you. We depend on your ability to squeeze a lot of information into your question - and that is not easy.

See "Related Questions" below for more specific details, and some ideas on what to check.

One thing to check that I ran into with my 98 2 weeks ago: the red and green vacuum hoses going to the EGR valve and the silver fuel pressure regulator on my Duratec/DOHC engine had cracked and broken. The hoses run mostly inside of a plastic cover that you can pull back - look for brittle, cracking, breaking of the hoses.
Does it turn over?
this is a very general question, you need to narrow it down some, such as its turning over but not starting. are your lights coming on, do you have the key, are you turning the key, does it have fluids, etc....