Mercury Sable

The antenna powers on/off with the radio - no separate control.

If yours isn't moving, one of the 2 things has happened:

• The antenna motor has failed
• The internal nylon 'tape' has broken - very very common to these antennas

See "Related Questions" below for more details, including how-to repair / replace the mast.

That would very much depend on the model year.

You should be able to look at the front of the engine and actually count them.

One thing they all do have though is what is known as the serpentine belt.

See "Related Questions" below for more

So little information to work with...

• Not blowing air??
• Temperature cannot be adjusted or always lukewarm?

See "Related Questions" below for more

In researching other computer trouble codes, I ran across the site that is listed under "Related Links" down below the sponsor links.

That site suggests the P0301 code relates to random misfiring on a particular cylinder.

The "Related Questions" below tell most of the 'story' for changing front struts on this generation of Taurus.

Fill in the details with a free on-line source of instructions like Autozone's Chilton's Repair Guide.

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

The first time I did this one, I 'cheated' with a strut / coil assembly from an auto salvage yard (I was fixing-to-sell) - changing out the coil spring separately isn't the much of a big deal as I learned on later repair jobs. You can also buy new strut/spring assemblies, sometimes referred to as 'ready-mount' or similar.

1. Before jacking the car up, remove the front axle retainer nut - likely to be 30mm

   TIP - I use a good length of pipe to extend my socket wrench in a super breaker-bar for the axle nut and stubborn bolts

2. Loosen, but don't remove the nuts holding the top of the strut, up in the engine compartment
3. Now it's time to jack up the car and take off the front wheel

   NOTE: be safe, use jack stands and wheel chocks!

4. Remove the brake caliper - hang it by a wire to keep from stressing the brake hose (don't hang it from the coil spring like "someone else" tried)
5. Remove the rotor - if it's stuck, use lots of penetrating oils - heat the center portion - beat the bejeebers out of it with a mallet
6. Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle -

   NOTE: I used pickle forks for years and always destroyed the rubber grease boot and had to replace many otherwise good tie rods - then I "discovered" the Pittman Arm Puller - way cool!

7. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the strut - don't forget this is best done with 2 wrenches - a 10mm(?) to hold the stud, and likely a 15mm box wrench for the nut itself
8. Control arm to steering knuckle - luckily, for this generation of Taurus/Sable, this is a simple pinch bolt to the control arm / ball joint(!) - Remove the bolt, pry open the steering knuckle where it connects to the ball joint stud.

   NOTE: This is where I typically use a length of 2x2 wood for extended leverage to push the control arm down and away from the steering knuckle.

   NOTE #2: see "Related Question" for the whole story on the lower control arm.

   NOTE #3: For 1996-1999 Taurus / Sable, the lower ball joint is a huge huge pain - See "Related Questions" below for more about that sad story

9. With the steering knuckle all loosened up, removing the axle now is a whole lot easier - push it back and out of the hub/bearing - support with hanging wire
10. Remove the strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt - (18 and/or 21mm?). Using a small prybar, spread the pinch bolt joint to loosen its grip on the steering knuckle - likely a good size hammer will come in handy to get it to 'slide' off the bottom of the strut.
11. Take the top nuts off the strut to free it from the vehicle - hang onto it when taking the last nut off - otherwise your feet will be smashed and hurt by the falling strut! (Experience speaking here...)

• Compressing the coil spring - Follow the instructions of whatever spring compressing tool you have - heed all the warnings and whatever you do, be careful!
• With the spring safely compressed, remove the top nut:

  * use a 10mm wrench to hold the strut rod/shaft from turning - and then a 21mm box wrench or crows-foot 'socket' to remove the nut

• NOTE: Before removing the top parts, take note of the alignment or orientation of the top mounting bracket to the body of the strut - there is a front versus backside of the strut. You're gonna want to remember this in a few minutes when you start putting it all back together.
• Loosen the spring compressor tool and remove the top mounting bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring
• Reassembly notes:

  * Properly re-align the top mount assembly to the body of the strut so the top mounting bolts lineup with the holes when you put it back in the car.

  * Don't let the shaft of the strut turn while putting the nut back on - 2 wrenches just like when you took it off.

  * Torque the nut to 40-53 ft lbs

• Install the strut/spring assembly - Don't tighten the 3 top mounting nuts just yet! Leave it hang loose during the assembly process
• Install the steering knuckle onto the strut - a bit of spray lube might help. Lineup the mounting holes in the knuckle and strut.
• Using a new pinch bolt, torque to 73-97 ft lbs
• Install the halfshaft / axle back into the hub

  NOTE: double-check the splines of the axle are nice and clean - wire brush any residue off - this will help it slide back into the hub real nice

• Reconnect the lower control arm/ball joint to the bottom of the steering knuckle

  NOTE: there's a groove in the ball joint stud that needs to lineup with the pinch bolt opening - probably didn't move far, unless of course you replaced the control arm

  NOTE #2: This again is where the chunk of 2x2 or 2x4 comes in handy to get the control arm low enough to maneuver the steering knuckle into place over the ball joint stud.

  NOTE #3: An extra pair of hands also helps cut down the cursing and swearing - helps a lot!

• Using a new pinch bolt, torque to 40-53 ft lbs
• Install the stabilizer link to the strut - using a new stabilizer bar link nut, torque to 57-75 ft lbs
• Reconnect the tie rod end - don't forget the cotter pin

  * torque for 1986-1994 models: 23-35 ft lbs

  * torque for 1995 models: 35-46 ft lbs

• Re-install the rotor - double check that the hub & rotor surfaces that touch are CLEAN - wire brush or emery cloth the surfaces if needed. This will help the next time you take the rotor off, and keep the rotor aligned with the hub - you might even put some anti-seize compound on there
• Put the brake caliper back on
• Don't forget the front wheel
• Torque the 3 top strut mounting bolts to 23-29 ft lbs
• Lower the car back to the ground for the last step...
• Re-install the axle nut and torque to 170-203 ft lbs

  NOTE: embarrassing confession - I got sloppy and didn't get the axle fully inserted back into the hub and it ended up loose! (remember the note about cleaning the axle splines?)

  Double-check the axle retaining nut torque

This is one of the most extensive front suspension jobs you can do - so go treat yourself to a large pitcher of "adult beverage" in celebration!!!!

# Remove the door panel

# Pull back the plastic liner from the top - rear corner to clear access to the area behind the door lock

# Work the lock a few times to identify the links that move and connect to an 'arm' extending downwards from the lock cylinder

# Now that you know what moves, look for plastic/nylon connector which holds the linkage to the arm - usually this connector lifts up off of the rod

# The lock cylinder is usually held in place by a thin, springy, u-shaped 'plate' inserted like a collar around the cylinder right at the metal wall of the door. There's a part of it sticking up and that's what you pry against to slide it out from around the cylinder. This is a good opportunity to lubricate all the moving lock parts inside the door.

See "Related Questions" below for more about removing the door panel

There are a number of sources of auto repair information on-line.

My favorite, due to the comprehensive & illustrated content, plus the fact it's FREE, is Autozone.com

For Taurus/Sables, be sure to check out the Taurus Car Club of America site - see Related Links below