Mercury Villager

In a 1999 Mercury Villager Estate, To change between CDs, press the "CD" button on the audio system to toggle between the different CDs loaded in the changer. Use the corresponding numbered buttons (1-6) to select the desired CD slot.

To remove the back bench seat in a 1998 Mercury Villager, locate the release lever or bolts at the base of the seat. Pull or unscrew the lever/bolts to release the seat and then lift it out of the vehicle. Make sure to disconnect any wiring connections if applicable before fully removing the seat.

The GL model is the base model with very little standard features. The LS model has more features like tinted rear windows, power front seats, rear a/c control, moonroof...ect. The Nautica LS has almost every feature you can think of.

After looking at the ( 1996 , 1999 , and 2002 ) Mercury Villager Owner Guides :

The fuel tank capacity is ( 20.0 U.S. gallons / 75.7 liters )

The caliper on the front rotor of most vehicles is typically held in place with caliper bolts. These bolts are specially designed to provide secure mounting of the caliper to the vehicle's steering knuckle or suspension. Make sure to use the correct size and grade of bolts when reinstalling the caliper to ensure proper functionality and safety.

Timing is set by the PCM and not adjustable.

2000 Mercury sport villager with 3.3liter what does the rod caps torque at.

not sure if there is a cross member in the way of getting the oil pan out or not?? just get under neath and look.......drain the oil obviously......... unbolt the oil pump replace new one....not to hard of a job unless you own a mustang which you have to lift the motor to remove the oil pan ...it just all depends on were the cross member is at...if your oil pump went and you have drove it at all you may wanna uncap one of your main bearing and check it .....look for copper

Check your brake pedal, follow it up into the under dash. You should see where the pedal stop meets a bar with a switch attached. The rubber piece that triggers the swith to shut off the light when the brake is released probably broke off which leaves a hole in the pedal bar for the button on the switch to go through without being depressed to shut off the light.

If you are looking for a broken fuse on this problem, then you are gonna have more than just the belts not operating (dome lights, power windows and more.) The fuse compartment beside the parking brake release handle contains the fuse for the belts. Something probable is the Inertia switch having high resistance. It will keep both belts on the rear (B)pillar even if you open the doors. To check the inertia switch on the left side behind the cover (you can see a small red button)remove it and use a ohmeter to see if the resistance is close to zero. Try cycling it with a small shock it will open and the just push the red button to close it. Recheck the resistance if it was high.

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Oohlalajameshunt, reiterate the answer of this statement. I recently just changed a 6 cylinder 1998 Grand Prix 3.8 valve cover gasket. I started at around 8:30 and finished around 2:30 pm, it could have been earlier but performing the repair myself took some time. It involves removing the alternator, serpentine belt, spark plugs, (make sure you number the plugs) check your wires for corrosion, so that you replace them as your replacing your valve cover gaskets. removing the coil rack and brakets also involved in replacing your gaskets. Called pep boys and they wanted 387.66 for the repair. Send me a picture of your engine and I'll resend you a work work picture repair guide. send response to barrywhite855@yahoo.com

Thanks, James Hunt

To remove the igniton lock, remove the steering wheel and turn signal switch housing. From there you will be able to see the lock which holds the ignition lock into place. slide a screwdriver into the slot and apply pressure. The igntion lock can then be pulled out.

While the manufacturer has not recommended a mileage interval for changing the timing belt on a 1998 Ford Contour, experienced technicians recommend changing the belt at 60,000 miles, according to Autodata's timing belt book. The engine is an interference engine, which means that should the timing belt stretch past its useful life or break, the valves will most likely contact the pistons, causing extreme engine damage. This procedure uses special tools that are available at the dealership.

1.

Step 1

Disconnect the battery ground cable, using a wrench. Raise the front of the Contour with the floor jack, then support it with jack stands. Remove the right-front wheel, using the lug wrench. Remove the lower splash guard for the engine and the right, inner fender lower splash guard.

2.

Step 2

Mark the direction of rotation on the accessory belt, using chalk or correction fluid to draw an arrow. Loosen the accessory belt tensioner with a wrench, then remove the accessory drive belt. Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley and the accessory drive belt tensioner, using the appropriate size sockets.

3.

Step 3

Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. Number the spark plug wires so you know where they go when you replace them. Pull the spark plug wires of the plugs, then remove the spark plugs. Carefully slide the screwdriver into the number 1 piston hole until it contacts the piston. Turn the crankshaft until you feel the piston (via the screwdriver) come all the way to the top of the piston bore. At the same time, watch the timing marks on the crankshaft. The engine is on top dead center when the mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the mark on the 5 o'clock position on the block, next to the crankshaft pulley. If the marks line up, but the piston is not all the way to the top of the bore, turn the crankshaft once more and everything will line up.

4.

Step 4

Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and the crankshaft pulley, using the appropriate sockets. Make sure the crankshaft does not turn while you are removing the pulley. If it does, repeat Step 3. Remove the lower timing belt cover.

5.

Step 5

Loosen the bolts on the left and right engine mounts. Do not remove the bolts--they need only to be loosened enough so that the engine can move a little bit. Unbolt the radiator overflow tank, but do not disconnect the hoses. Lay the overflow tank out of the way. Disconnect the cruise control cable with the appropriate socket or wrench. The cruise control cable is located on the throttle.

6.

Step 6

Support the engine by placing the 2-by-4-inch board on the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the engine and jack it up until it contacts the bottom of the engine. Remove the front engine mount, using the appropriate socket.

7.

Step 7

Remove the power steering pipe bracket, the upper timing belt cover and the front engine mount bracket, using the appropriate sockets. Disconnect the accelerator cable and the cruise control cable from the valve cover. Remove the valve cover.

8.

Step 8

Slide the camshaft alignment tool into the slots at the rear of the camshafts. Loosen the tensioner bolt, but do not remove it. Turn the tensioner clockwise with the appropriate-size Allen wrench, releasing tension on the belt. Unscrew the tensioner retaining bolt four turns. Unhook the tensioner bracket from the metal clip behind the tensioner.

9.

Step 9

Remove the plug from the center of the exhaust side camshaft (the right camshaft when you are looking down at the engine) by unscrewing it. Using the appropriate wrench, hold the camshaft by putting the wrench on the hexagon-shaped end of the camshaft where you removed the plug. Loosen the retaining bolts on both camshaft sprockets. Remove the timing belt. Check the valve on the number 4 cylinder. The camshaft lobe should be facing inward.

10.

Step 10

Install the crankshaft pulley, making sure the notch and the pointer are lined up. Remove the plug from the engine block, next to the motor mount bracket. Install the crankshaft timing pin. Adjust the crankshaft until it rests against the timing pin. Make sure all the timing marks stay lined up. Remove the crankshaft pulley.

11.

Step 11

Install the new timing belt around the crankshaft sprocket, working your way counterclockwise, keeping the timing belt tight on the side opposite the tensioner. The timing belt route goes on the inside of the two idler pulleys, then around the outside of the camshafts and the inside of the tensioner. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still pushed up against the timing pin. Hook the tensioner bracket on the metal clip.

12.

Step 12

Turn the tensioner counterclockwise with the appropriate-size Allen wrench, until the pointer is lined up with the mark located halfway between the 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock position. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 18.5 ft-lbs. of torque, then remove the Allen wrench.

13.

Step 13

Hold the camshaft by putting a wrench on the hexagon part of the shaft. Tighten the intake sprocket retaining bolt to 50 ft-lbs. of torque. Tighten the exhaust sprocket retaining bolt to 44 ft-lbs. of torque. Remove the crankshaft timing pin and the camshaft alignment tools.

14.

Step 14

Hold the exhaust camshaft by placing a wrench on the hexagon part of the camshaft. Torque the exhaust sprocket retaining bolt to 89 ft-lbs. of torque. Turn the crankshaft almost two turns (slowly). Reinstall the crankshaft timing pin. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until it touches the timing pin. Reinstall the camshaft tool in the camshaft slots to make sure it slides in smoothly. If it doesn't, remove the belt and repeat the procedure.

15.

Step 15

Remove the camshaft tool and the crankshaft timing pin. Install a new plug into the exhaust camshaft sprocket and torque the plug to 27 ft-lbs. of torque. Install the plug into the crankshaft timing pin hole and tighten it to 18.5 ft-lbs. of torque. Install the rest of the parts in reverse order of removal. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 85 ft-lbs. of torque.

Disconnect batter ground cable. Remove the upper and lower steering column shrouds. Remove lock screw and disconnect ignition switch electrical connector. Rotate the ignition switch to the RUN position. Remove the two screws retaining ignition switch. Disengage ignition switch from the actuator. When installing new key set, ensure new key set is in the RUN position prior to installion.

It is the intake air temperature sensor , and it,s located in the air intake boot.

Read the related question and its answer and start from there. Good luck sorting this out.

The distributor in a Mercury Villager is the round thing at the front of the engine with the six spark plug wires attached to it.

Disconnect the TPS sensor connector. It's the lower of the 2 connectors. The other one is the idle sensor. Turn ignition key to on. At throttle fully closed, the reading on termial C of the connector should read 0.4v to 0.5v. (Looking INTO the connector with the notch on the connector pointing UP, C is the right most pin) At throttle fully open, the reading should be 4v. If readings are wrong Loosen the 2 holding screws (only enough to twist the sensor). Adjust accordingly. Tighten the screws.

Most times your tires are out of balance. Driving it in that conditions adds more problems so get that corrected tomorrow.

Shakes that develop at or above specific speeds are usually caused by tire balance. Misalignment can also contribute to the problem

OR IT GOT A LOWER TIRE TREAD ON BOTH SIDE LIK IF U SLAM ON UR BRAKES & THE TIRES SLIDE IT WILL IT LIKE MY PICKUP IS

Not without extensive work, the mounting points are different.

Trouble code P1446 means: EVAP System Vent Control Closed

Yes and no. It has a fly wheel if it is equipped with a manual transmission. It has a flex plate for an automatic transmission. But, that's like the term "motor" being used to describe an internal combustion "engine". In my world, a "motor" is connected to an electrical power source. Anyhow, the flex plate (flywheel) is a connection between the engine and the transmission. Every vehicle has one.

There are no symptoms, because a knock sensor is a passive part.

The knock sensor is in the engine V under the intake manifolds and coolant crossover pipe. As it requires considerable disassembly and an expensive new gasket set to reach it, I suggest you make very sure there is something wrong with it first. You will have to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds and coolant crossover pipe assembly to reach it. Just because you are receiving a trouble code for it does not mean there is anything wrong with it. This sensor shares a circuit with other components that often will set a "ghost" trouble code.

The inertia switch would only be tripped by an impact. It is possible the switch is defective or broken. You would need to check whether the pump circuit is getting power to be sure. The fuel pump could also be bad.

First, bring the seat backs all the way forward (so they make a stool seats.) On each of the middle seat "Captain's chairs" there are two levers. There is one on each side of the seat at the hinge facing front. One is on the "outside" of the seat and the second lever is on the "inside" of the seat. Release both levers preferably at the same time) and that will release the front hinges. The rear hinges do not have a release lever and can be "rocked" out of their postings for removal.