Mercury Villager

Trouble code P0302 means:Cylinder 2 misfire detected

It can be the turn signal switch.

Two possibilities. one: there is a switch that when depressed turns on the light, it could be stuck. I haven't looked for one on this car. two: your brake is not fully releasing as cable has gotten rusty. Look under car and see if you can give it a yank and it releases.

There is an electrical failure in the trans and will have to be checked out by a good trans shop. GoodluckJoe

Oxygen sensors generally do not operate when "cold". Engine is in open loop mode while warming up. In additionl, oxygen sensors generally do not cause this kind of problem. I've read elsewhere that there is a sensor in the distributor that can get dirty and cause the symptoms you're experiencing. Sorry, don't have any links handy.

According to the website about.com

For a 1995 Mercury Villager 3.0 liter SOHC , V6 engine

The firing order is ( 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 )

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

1------3------5

2------4------6

front of vehicle

The distributor rotor turns COUNTER-CLOCKWISE

A half inch impact wrench worked on my 1999 Mercury Villager for getting the crankshaft bolt out. Once out I used a light duty puller (3 prongs I think) to assist in getting the crankshaft pully removed. This is necessary if you are replacing the timing belt. If you don't have a good impact wrench and a full tank of air pressure it probably won't break the bolt loose. Be sure to mark everything well before you pull the timing belt off and have the number one cylinder at top dead center (TDC). There are marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys but take notes and do some counting between marks if you buy an aftermarket belt. Dealer belts are well marked, but belts from your local auto parts stores which are cheaper are not marked. Think about using fingernail polish (White) to make marks on the old belt. Get a good repair manual.

If you have a keypad on the door follow this proceedure; First you need your permanent code which can be found either taped the to the owners warranty card in the owners manual, or taped to the computer module under the center console. The module is located behind the control console, below and to the left of the ABS control module. It is adjacent to the accelerator pedal, behind the kick panel. Click here to see how to get to the permanent or master code that is located on the module under the center console. It is a white label with a five digit number printed in black. One person reported finding the label on the rear hatchback. Once you have the permanent code you can program a new code. To program the new code enter the permanent code and then enter the new entry code. When you enter the permanent code the keypad will beep for six seconds, during this six seconds you must enter the new code. The keypad should give a short beep and light up whenever you push one of the keypad buttons. I have heard from at least one person that the beep function of the keyless entry was not working. He was still able to reprogram the keyless by proceeding with the programming instructions and ignoring the fact that it did not beep. If you don't get beep and the keypad does not light this may be an indication that the keyless entry controller is defective. You can test whether the keyless entry module is alive by using the keypad to lock the doors. Pressing the buttons "7/8" and "9/0" simultaneously will lock all the doors. This does not work if the key is in the ignition to prevent you from locking your keys in the van. If you have a keyfob, do this; 1. Close and lock all doors using power switch on drivers door panel. 2. Insert and remove key from ignition (Do Not Turn) at least 6 times within 10 seconds.     The hazard lights will flash to indicate original code has been erased. 3. Insert key and turn to ACC position. Press any button on first keyless remote.     Hazard lights will flash to confirm programming. 4. To program additional keyless remotes, unlock and then lock the doors using power     switch on drivers door panel. 5. Press any button on second keyless remote. Hazard lights will flash to confirm     programming. 6. Open drivers door and remove key from ignition. Test remotes

The knock sensor is in the engine V under the intake manifolds and coolant crossover pipe. As it requires considerable disassembly and an expensive new gasket set to reach it, I suggest you make sure that there is something wrong with it first.

You will have to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds and coolant crossover pipe assembly to reach it.

Keep in mind that, just because you are receiving a trouble code for it, does not mean there is anything wrong with it. This sensor shares a circuit with other components that often will set a "ghost" trouble code.

The air filter in a 95' Villager is located on the drivers side of the engine compartment. It is the square black box that is at the end of the large rubber tube that comes from the intake manifold on top of the engine. The box has two latches, one on top, and one on the back, the look similar tt tool box latches. Undo both and open the box wide enough to slip the filter out and put new filter in.

I have a 1999 Villager Sport with that same engine. I am doing the timing, water pump and belts on it and found out that the 3.3L is a TIMMING BELT. CarQuest has some awsome prices on the timing kit accessory belts and water pump. I paid close to $195.00 with tax in FL for all these components.

Hope this helps!

Yahoo Groups has a very helpful group; villagerquest. It is here you find the answer(s).

Nissan isn't going to stock any parts for this, try Rockauto.com or eBay.

Struts and alignment

This typically happens when the the wheel alignment is off.

The fuel pump is in the tank, and the tank must be removed to access it.

The speed sensor is on the top back corner of the transmission housing. It is held down by one screw.

You probably need the original key fob for the car. This is regardless if you have an alarm for the car. I've changed the battery twice in the last five years for my 97 Villager and each time I've had to "reset" the "alarm" via the key fob. The last time, I had to uncable the battery twice because it would not "reset" using the key fob before finally accepting the "unlock/disarm" from the key fob.

Motorcraft MERCON automatic transmission fluid for the automatic transaxle

( according to the owners manual )

Unfortunately I've been having the same issue. If I lock the car, then unlock the car, the hatch won't open. If I drive it once or twice without locking the car again, the hatch is magically unlocked. I wish I knew the logical answer to this problem!

In theory if you can hook it up, you can pull it. The van is only rated to pull around 3000 lbs. max., though, so you might damage it if the trailer is more than that.

In San Souci, Trinidad

Wick_prince

Cabin Filter located under passenger side cowel outside. When I had body work cowel was removed along with wiper arms.

1. remove wiper arms

2. remove six screws along windshield

3. open hood

4. remove four plastic screws along bottom edge

5. gently bend and wiggle to remove cowl

6. remove four screws and retainer plate to replace filter

7. reverse process and have a beer, Good job!!

That is in the fuse panel inside the car. Marked I/P illum (instrument panel illumination)